Nickfromwales

Noise is one. The internal units can range from sounding like a very noisy fridge to sounding like a really quiet washing machine. Choose well and with units that have good reviews / live feedback from such adopters. The one I was I a absent with would have pissed me right off of it was ANYWHERE in my house ( other than the basement ) as it was annoyingly noisy / vibrations etc. That was a Daikin iirc. Re temperature, you can select a ‘high temp’ split which will go north of 65-70oC with ease ( reliably ) as the one I worked on had to go above 65 to melt the PCM58 in the trio of SA units. Did that PDQ too.

Do you have a monoblock? Do you have an internal compressor unit and THEN an UVC? OP is asking about a true split system which has the compressor indoors ( like a GSHP does ).

My only concern is has water got into the OSB / ply with the delaminated bits we’ve seen so far? They need sealing up ASAP before getting on with next weeks distractions.

? @SteamyTea Do you think they’d be better off feathering in a fall with layers of mat and gel coat? Doesn’t look like it is “miles off” to me? A competent GRP installer would be able to advise, and won’t be a compromise on quality but would be a heck of a lot easier than laying a firred roof over that again.

The force is strong with this one.......

https://www.rubberco.co.uk/selectedsize/sound-proofing-and-deadening-rubber-sheet-linear-meter/4103?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqrb7BRDlARIsACwGad7BaSmHXn3AA732nmgLKChgqw2yeRS1uwnXpcLV6lmTTU8fJwVzGA0aAp0vEALw_wcB This stuff takes a lot of the foot traffic / other impact sounds down a good few notches. Deffo go for acoustic batt and double up on acoustic boards or resilient bars and one layer of 15mm acoustic board. As said, dealing with the detail at the perimeter is often overlooked. Stuff some loose rock wool in there to plug everything up nicely.

Get them at 400mm centres apart MAXIMUM. There is very obvious bounce ( aka deflection ) at 600mm c’s. Asking for an extra run of strong-back won’t go amiss either and is pennies in cost terms.

You’d still need to be able to get small bore services around too, so a service void is inevitable. The design logistics in the pre-ducted / pre-serviced slabs would be off the chart. And if you’ve got it wrong you’re Donald Ducked.

You can switch to rectangular ‘D’-shaped ducting to reduce the profile, and then make the service void under the 1st floor B&B a bit bigger to accommodate it. Run the ducts from the rooms back to the plant and then assign which duct does what, to make things easier on logistics as you won’t be able to have any crossovers if space-constrained. M&E design / foresight is critical in a B&B dwellings, so if that’s not been applied at a very early stage you may end up doing series vs radial eg if you are seriously struggling to get from attic > ground floor.

Yup.

It needs to be with him and you two, alone in the quiet, no distractions, and with the graveyard expression on both of your faces. And just stick to one goal, roof off, and then do it properly via a company that has an insurance policy that covers that type of work. ( and the skills ).

https://www.calor.co.uk/gas-bottles/advice/storing

Crossed with the old boy....

Ola. The question is a more complex than it first appears. I would not want to fire my ASHP, then wait for it to reach optimum operating range, then warm through all the inter-connective pipework, have those associated losses / wear and tear / fatigue etc vs just energising a docile immersion heater which is 99% efficient in what it does. Excess PV is delivered in pockets, so ( IMHO ) is unsuitable for your proposed application. KISS wins every time.

She needs to start considering other people's needs mate. Just tell her, "I'm a man, not a machine" ?

Buffers can have a coil, so sorry if wires crossed here. @LA3222 have you seen a particular buffer that you are referencing here? The Jaspi store is one such beast IIRC. http://www.northmangroup.co.uk/Ultra500.html

With 2 floors of heating you are correct, and I would not put that much through a coil. The buffer needs to be 'man enough' to accept and discharge the required heat influx / outputs as required at any one time, so sizing will be important. Small heat source = bigger buffer and vice versa.

No batteries either, as the quinetic refers to the instant energy created by you pressing the switch rocker. That movement creates the energy required to send the signal to the receiver. They work from miles away too.

That's what I am using in most bathroom jobs these days. Really trick to have a hidden 2G switch behind / adjacent to the bath so you can flip between feature / low level accent lighting and ceiling spots without meeting the man upstairs. Yup. They are IP67 switches that I mostly use. Shit hot and super reliable too. Just put them in my man cave so I could turn off the lights from a second switch by my back door ( Quinetic too ).

I'll give you your due's, if that's your first attempt at tiling. Good effort Forrest

Remember that chat about water / sponge / paint brush / cleaning as you go.........? Because you took that on board the excess should be a doddle to sort

It's a bit blurry, but I think that's a packet of 'nuts'.........

That membrane is as thin as you're going to get, with Ditra etc deeper again, as they are castellated both topside and underneath. With a wet mix of rapid-set flexi under that membrane you could just keep going over it with a 4"roller as it goes off and keep it as shy as possible. You'd have to mix up for one 1m strip x Xm long at a time and wait until the first sets before going onto the next. Only necessary, as said, where it's uber-critical, so you can relax a little as you move inward away from the doors etc. Depends on the tile size of course.