Nickfromwales

For the obvious "kitchen / utility units will always at least be there forever" areas, yes, reduce the UFH according to basics. Most medium sized islands I will always pipe under, but more significant sized rooms don't need the 'help' so you can avoid if you choose to.

Nope.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/58-structural-insulated-panels-sips/ Post there, and we can get the information flowing I'd disagree with your architect.

Concrete screw the last joist into the concrete floor to lock them to each other.

If you have room for 22mm P5 boards, then do the base layer with that. Then go over with a thin layer of plywood as the binder for the LVT to go on to. Set the plywood binder to be higher than the concrete, and then feather the concrete into that with the SLC to get you snooker table flat; you need to be spot-on for LVY as it shows everything when the light is on it. Yes to sistering to get the joists ready for the P5, and use glue and structural screws to do this link, inserting them at a slight angle to use the whole length of the screw. Use resin wood glue, plenty of it, to join the two together forever.

Hi, and welcome aboard! Please post a new thread in the SIP's / timber frame section, and then I can ask you "why SIP's and not TF, or ICF".............

Legend.

If you don’t want to lose the extra inch, you could use resilient bars. If there’s a floor above you’ll kill two birds with one stone; levelling and avoiding the humps, and getting sound sound deadening. Defo not a good thing to try and screw PB to two different levels, with screws so close together. The screws will just keep breaking through and the plasterboard stands a chance of snapping too. Resilient bars will drop you about 15mm iirc.

You’d convert MDPE > copper in a straight fitting, then go into a hep2o 90° bend. Not convert with a bend. I’ll watch the vid shortly. 👍

Amen. 🙏

Don’t use those, they’re massive cold bridges. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/wall-and-frame-ties/ancon-staifix-stf6-timber-frame-cavity-wall-tie-box-100/p/252293?srsltid=AfmBOoofEZbj_x_ZnYybhpBGqkrwLBomudNsJ_VFHDfzfUP3PiK7j8et_Zk

@-rick- Firstly, a warning! If this is a block of flats and you’re not on the ground floor, this could be disastrous if you feck it up. Just saying that so I can sleep later Is it easier for you to cut out the elbow and convert to copper where it’s accessible there, then just run 28mm copper to where it currently converts? No need for spanner’s and grips, nuts and olives, PTFE etc or other faff. You only need Hep2o 28mm fittings then, including being able to cut off the nut and olive at the existing copper tail and push a straight Hep2o coupler on to that. Much more DIY friendly route, and less tools / prep etc. Just needs a 28mm pipe slice. A Jnr or Snr hacksaw will cut the MDPE if you can borrow one. Cut it square, and use a £2 sanding block from one of the sheds to apply a very slight chamfer to the pipe before pushing in the insert. The conversion from MDPE to copper can be Plasson push fit, just needs an insert to go into the MDPE pipe (no inserts required in copper) and that’ll be right for life. Give the rubber O-rings the slightest smear of Vaseline, just a whiff, to ease pushing the MDPE into the fitting. Remember to measure the depth of the stop inside the fitting, use a pencil / other depth gauge, and mark this onto the MDPE before pushing it in, so you know it’s fully home. All copper cuts made with a rotary pipe slice will automatically be ‘chamfered’ and do not need to be ‘de-burred’. How’s that sound? Re my ‘warning’, I’d do the repair DIY, and recommend that you switch the mains off for the next few days when you head out to work. Then have it on and be using it whilst you’re there, until you are fully confident that the repair is kosher.

You can buy patching plaster etc in the likes of B&Q in much smaller ‘hobby’ sized bags. Get the wallpaper off!!!!! Why do you think this failed ? Remember if using PVA on any surface you must plaster on to it when it’s still wet. If you let it dry it’ll have the opposite effect. Run a Stanley knife down each corner (a good few times) to stop the plaster breaking away from the side walls too.

For domestic works I’ve used hep2o (never John Guest Speedfit as the fittings need clips to stop them undoing themselves ) and I’ve never had an issue other than one or two duff fittings (over 10 years) which just leaked the second I filled up. 5 min swap out, back to business. I've installed tens of thousands of metres of this stuff and don’t use anything else. Clipping isn’t bad, but needs to be more frequent than copper or MLCP, defo not 300mm. MLCP (pert-al) for UFH for every install. MLCP has quite restrictive inner bore sizes, from what I’ve seen ( @SimonD ? ), so does JG Speedfit, but Hep2o inserts are thin stainless sleeves which hardly impact on the bore / flow at all. The Hep2o fittings are ‘push and forget’ and these are equally bombproof afaic. I won’t be converting to press-fit copper any time soon. Just a total pita if you’ve not got a fitting spot on first time, loads to cut out if you feck up in a tight space like a plant room, and it’s very difficult to get the machine into tight spaces (where I can reach with solder and my lamp).

Yup. Use the powder tile adhesive in bags, and never the ready mixed acrylic stuff in a tub. Needs to be cementitious so it can never reconstitute, plus the ready mixed acrylic stuff takes forever to dry over tanking. Make sure the tiler agrees to that, and if they whinge that it goes off too fast just tell them to use standard (aka extended) set adhesive which has over an hour of open time.

I tell all of my clients to have 4 seasons / 12 months of regular and normal living, and then we do a statistical download from the inverters etc to see what’s gone on (and if we need to / how we can improve things).

Replace with new, I’d go Plasson.

I know the feeling. Some of my seals are less robust these days Sounds like an issue to put back on the leaseholder? Or have you signed your life away?

Ah! Gotcha. Yes, that type of fitting is also robust. Being able to push the pipe an inch means it wasn’t past the o ring, so you were living on luck there!! yup. Just found the bugger lol.

Extra pumps and complexity??? You??? Surely not??? :swoons:

There’s no way that should have pulled / blown off, unless it wasn’t seated fully into the fitting (Plasson?) properly. Don’t choose compression onto MDPE as that’s garbage compared to a proper MDPE fitting + insert. If you’re not sure, replace like for like, and mark on the blue pipe the depth of the fitting to the internal stop point (like a shelf that the pipe insert butts up against and then can’t go in any further) so you know the pipe is fully ‘home’ in the fitting. I’d say it was poorly installed or being not fully home that caused this.

Yes. The same reason I’ve been in Jewsons twice in as many decades. Also you’re looking at too big a lintel You don’t need a 6x4” as a 4x3” (100x65) is plenty for a doorway in single skin in most situations. You mount this in portrait orientation, not landscape, btw.

Crikey, Terry. All the more grateful for what you’ve done (and are still doing) behind the scenes for Buildhub, as without your support and knowledge the back end would have likely fallen off the forum! Hope you’re able to chill out a bit and enjoy yourselves nowadays… Thanks again.

The hex bits are usually non returns and can fail, so you defo need JUST clear access to these; don’t let the tiler cut away any more than is necessary. You put a small bead of clear CT1 around the top and each of the sides of the plate, and seal it to the tiles. Don’t seal the bottom as that gets left as a drip.

PVC hero’s fit these heavier units and don’t often pack and fix them properly, so they start to play up after a few months of open / close cycles. You need to do diagonals to see where it’s ‘out’ and pack it back properly. Can you ask the original fitter to do it for you, and explain it’s moved and needs them to sort it?