Nickfromwales

Bingo.

Use a push fit fitting to go on to the copper with the push fit pipe going into that ‘plastic’ fitting. NEVER put push fit pipe into a metal / compression fitting. Shut up and get on with your work !

If it’s outside the heated envelope then the ducts need to be very well insulated and the transition through the airtight layer needs meticulous detailing. Post your plans, you can get slimline / horizontal etc. Options are out there for adverse situations.

@Haku Please say now which thing drives these decisions. Commetcial sense, or owner / occupants comfort? You’re on a forum for people striving to do best in what may well be their forever home, so if you need commercial balance for financial gain then it’s best to set out your station so you can be offered the best advice. Plenty on here who rent / renovate for profit so you’re not alone

MVHR.... Mechanical Ventilation with HEAT RECOVERY The other option is to allow infiltration, trickle vents, and forced extraction to suck all the heated air ( the air you’ve just paid to heat ) out to the clouds and never to be seen again. Oh, and I would love to hear of anyone who’s house doesn’t let smoke in regardless of MVHR. The benefit of MVHR vs a house with natural infiltration / forced extraction is you can turn off your MVHR during the piss-you-off-neighbours leaf burning activity, but you’d have to go around physically closing all the trickle vents and blocking up the extractors to stop that in a regular home. No sale so far on the reasons for not fitting it sorry.

Work done by another “plastic plumber” who recently upgraded from window cleaner when he saved up enough 2p’s to buy a speedfit cutter Shockingly poor effort there. Please do ‘sort it’. Keep the 25x15mm JG fitting and push some 15mm copper pipe in. Do as you say and fit an equal tee with the copper into the branch and go left and right split into downturned 90o bends to suit. Put full bore isolators on each outgoing feed ( less the washing machine tap as that is an isolator ) and use JG fittings to convert to / from copper to pick up the existing stuff. Talon clips come with an optional spacer to get you off the wall. Go to a plumbers merchants or screwies and you should be able to buy singularly or in packs of 10 respectively. Please post a pic of the finished result so as to un-offend our eyes back to normal.

If there’s a ground floor then a 1st and then an attic conversion you deffo need 2 manifolds minimum. The ground floor manifold will service ground floor only, and the attic manifold can service that and drop to service the 1st floor. You’ll need an accurate loop length plan that takes into account the 2.6m drops and you’ll want to keep the loop lengths well under the preferred 100m max ideally. The attic manifold will need a manual bypass valve across flow and return to allow the boiler pump to be hydraulically “free” when nearly all loops are shut. What is the heat source? Gas I assume. You’ll deffo need to factor in a buffer tank for when the house is up near / at the temp and the majority of actuators are closed. Retro fit high temp UFH is a recipe for short cycling and that will fatigue, and could cause early failure of, the boiler. It could also make it inefficient. Save yourself some money and just fit a couple of radiators in the attic? If you insulate and address draughts then that space will need very little heat.

For a near half ton dead weight I would only use welded steel framework.

Theralite block inner and brick outer, and then insulated plasterboards dabbed onto the thermalite blocks for a finish. Blown beads in the cavity could be an option to fully fill the cavity. If the garage has a regular door on it then insulating that is a bit pointless as it'll leak heat like a sieve. Infiltration of cold air from outside will outweigh the additional insulation so perhaps a reality check on that would be wise Either that or a very expensive insulated sectional door.....but that will still be draughty regardless so is still a bit pointless imho. If using direct electricity for heating then these are a no-brainer imo. https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/argo-2ms9k9k/argo-argo2ms9k9k-air-conditioner Heating and cooling in one box, split to the two buildings. Cooling is important here, as the better you make these spaces the hotter they'll be in the summer ( to a point they are unbearable if you want to keep the doors shut for noise control ). Air con will be necessary then so you may as well go for a split which does both disciplines for both buildings With a heat pump you'll be getting heating at probably half the price of direct electricity ( as the heat pump will be an energy multiplier ) so will be cheap to run even if the spaces are a little wasteful of the inputted heat. Consider making the mono-pitch roofs lend themselves to some PV panels, and put 3 or 4 on each roof.

How much focus have you given to air-tightness? You can get away with the lower level of insulation IF your infiltration rates are hugely improved. And I mean hugely. Are you going for AT ( airtightness ) and MVHR? The cooler you can run the UFH the lower the losses will be. The real fear here is that if the dwelling needs very high w/m2 output to get ( and keep ) the rooms at temp, then the losses to ground increase significantly. Can you squeeze in 120mm of KIngspan? What thickness are you allowing for screed btw?

https://www.advanceappliances.co.uk/product/141-buffer-stores/ I would still get a local forge to make me a steel table to take the cylinder so the buffer could be removed independently of the UVC. The UVC has far more complex plumbing so wold be a PITA to have to disconnect that to service or replace the buffer. Also, that approach would always guarantee that you have DHW even if the buffer fails eg you can still use the UVC if the buffer is not there as the support. A wall mounted unit would not work? What volume of buffer do you need? A better understanding of the issues around your plant space constraints may help to generate some additional feedback / solutions

Hi. It would depend on how the UFH pipes could converge at that location ( there would be a lot of them ) and the number of available loops ( individual flow and return tappings on each rail ) as it’s likely you would need more loops than you have radiator circuits. In honesty the manifold would likely be going in the bin, as it may just be a dumb distribution manifold. Can you post a pic, and we can see if it has a pump and TMV ( thermostatic mixing valve ) on it. If so, you may be able to retain it and add another section of rail to each of the flow and return rails to expand it. Needless to say, this will be a hugely disruptive undertaking and would be subject to understanding what thickness of insulation is under the screed. You can cost this via Wundatrade if you have a set of plans.

Get some track pipe and put the bottles around the back of the outbuilding? As soon as you’re away from a habitable dwelling you can do pretty much as you please.

I thought that was to do with the regulators not the size of the bottles? X amount of mbar pressure is the same across any size of storage afaik. Primary pressure is what is stored in the bottles, and working pressure in mbar is what is delivered in a controlled and regulated way, by the regulator. The changeover arrangements work at a set low pressure level before activating and changing from the spent bottle to the full, so @Temp I’d say that’s a bum steer you’ve been given.

Get a quote for Ergosun solar tiles / slates and have some toilet roll ready Just try and buy some cheap panel system off EBay and I wouldn’t bother with less than 4 panels. You get 25% PV in winter ( if you’re lucky ) so when you need the ASHP the most you’ll have the least amount of PV. Forget the correlation between the PV and any one given device, as that is just a wasteful endeavour. Instead, use the PV to nibble away at the vampire / base load of the house and simplify the equation. It matters not one jot where the electricity goes, so adjust your thinking here and use that new perspective to plan your attack against your annual electricity bills.

And yes, I’m talking about the FiT that people will still be getting for the next Christ knows how long.

A friend of mine had installed 4 x 250w panels he had second hand. They’re doing a great job with a surprisingly decent output and very much worth the effort IMO. Developer panels are prob ones with micro inverters factory fitted on the rear of the panel so a direct AC connection is quick and simple ( plug ‘n play ). If I had to spend a couple of grand to save a couple of grand over 10 years and was no worse off at the end of it, I would do so simply to say fcuk you to the grid and the “big 6”. I think every home in the UK should have a minimum of 2-4 panels to input the grid with smart meters ensuring that what is exported is given back. A lot of UK homes have people out 9-5 and that’s a window of opportunity to produce some clean energy. Won’t happen of course, because the government is too focused on giving people money to have PV on the roof! FiT is just another of the utterly perverse schemes out there. Bonkers. That money should go to incentivising ( supporting ) homeowners to fit small arrays.

I’ll reply in depth when I finish getting this last 1/2kM of cable in here.

A mist system takes up no more water that it takes to fill a bath, and only requires a piddly flow from a 15mm inlet. Can’t see why planning would be an issue? Just fit the system and ask questions later. Applying retrospectively would be par for the course if I was interested in going for this dwelling.

Automatic fire suppression would permit the dwelling to be habitable and compliant.

Do you have room for an accumulator? 300l would be the minimum to install if you want a decent uplift. If not, then it’s a pump set. Accumulator is silent and near zero maintenance, so I’d at least consider that first. It can be in an outbuilding/ garage / other. Go to screwfix and get a pressure tester for a couple of tenners, and connect it to the outside tap or was home machine valve. Report your reading here.

I think it would be wise to get this power-flushed once and for all. That should sort this out long-term and leave you with a healthy refreshed installation. At that time, if it turns out you do not have a magnetic filter ( Link to a robust example here ), you might want to get one installed, and also instruct that person to treat the system with inhibitor ( and watch them do it ). Once this is done, you should have trouble-free motoring from that point onwards. Is your home UFH only, or do you have radiators there too? Trying to work out where this corrosion ( and subsequent build up of goop ) is coming from? Have you had the automatic vents fitted? Pics?

The likelihood is, because of the distance, you will have to de-rate to an 80a fuse at the point of origin. Based on that, a 25mm SWA will more than suffice. I wouldn't get too hung up on having a 100a supply, as an 80a supply will give you more than enough 'juice' for a typical residential dwelling.

That also sounds like an elegant solution....................

Thanks for the heads up....Neil Scotland ?