Nickfromwales

How thick will the screed be? It’s a can of worms putting a thin layer over existing outdoors. Water ingress + frost = ?

My screed guy will only go less than the nominal if bonding. Then he will only go down to 25mm minimum. From there I use SLC to feather down to nothing where slopes diminished. 25mm on last job, with UFH, down over 10 years, tiled, one tile cracked ( but tiler was shit and prob didn’t use a mat ( or a flexible adhesive )) I’ll bet.

Not big enough. Go poke a bit of 3-core 1mm down the inside of a 16mm pipe and see what you’ve got to play with. You’d not get a draw tape and a flex down that boyo ? let alone 2 cables for 2 stats.

Connect future pipe to the ports now, run it through the existing floor to a point where you can excavate a little to expose the ends, and just cap end them for the immediate. Use straight connectors to join back onto the pipes in the floor at a later date. FYI the fittings for 16mm UFH pipe are ridiculously good quality and I have put plenty of the joints in to repair damaged pipes / alter previously installed jobs where I've had to correct, etc etc, and they just do not leak. Put 9mm foam insulation onto these runs to preserve the heat in the flow pipes, and then a bit on the end of the return too, where the cap ends are, to keep the pipe and fitting in top condition. You do NOT want to screed these in and then damage them when you come to dig them out at a later date Don't forget to run a cable in a conduit to the same point also to extend and connect to the additional room thermostat(s) in the new extension.

Quote from DAB's website:- "The ESYBOX MINI 3 cannot be connected directly to the mains water supply, it must be connected to a suitable break tank." In some areas, putting a vacuum deficit onto the cold mains is a prosecutable offence....

Are you happy with the work / timekeeping etc?

Plus, when you’ve paid your money, the Wunda system will actually work. Advantageous in ones pursuit of warmth ?

Nope. The mains ‘passes’ the accumulator and goes direct to the outlet. The potential stored in the accumulator exits the vessel to fortify flow. When the outlet closes, mains starts to recharge the accumulator again. Mains will never enter the accumulator until it’s own potential is lesser than the stored potential. Trust me, this works very well. You just need to size the accumulator for your specific requirements. For the rotund Welsh tenor, Paul Potts, we fitted 2x 500’s to suit the demand. They went in the garage with a 500L UVC. With the job I mention above with the electric showers I fitted a 300L in the attic.

Spot on.

In a nutshell, yes. The only issue with an HRC is that any serviced DHW runs, plus the HRC return pipework, need to be super well insulated to stave off heat loss in the connective pipework. With a modern, well insulated UVC you should not really have to worry about the extra bit of heating input from the boiler when using any pump to stratify, as these lose very little heat per 24hrs tbh. They are designed to be 'fully' heated during normal ( vertical ) service plus when 'stirred', the horizontal units will give much closer to their stated useful DHW capacity. See page 18 HERE If you don't want to install a full HRC, then just fit the stratification pump and power it off the switched live of the DHW zone valve ( so that only runs during a reheat cycle thus filling the UVC to the max with heat energy ). Just remember to insulate the pump and pipework as much / best as possible. There are EPS pump body jackets available to make that easier / more practical.

Fresh air, definitely. Just commissioned one almost exactly like this, and fresh went into the dining and vaulted area feeding back towards the kitchen. This ensured the glazed area would never get 'stuffy' and the smells from cooking would never be attracted towards these areas. The design should be adapted to have the "UNIT2" fresh nearest the vaulted area moved to be in the vaulted area, with both of those spaces then having a single ceiling valve which has 2x ducts to each giving fresh air in. NOTE: extract will shift bugger all heat from that glazed aspect Trickle rates just do not shift anywhere near enough air to even scratch the surface.

Nah, there's only space for one person in his life Him.

Taxi for Nick please. I’ll moderate myself

Better make it 6

Needs paying up front. I’ll pm you my…… I mean his bank details now.

I’ll have a quick browse for a product capable of taking up the amount of slack that’s expected with you ?. May need something industrial ?

Illbruck stuff is good. Goes of tough as old boots with minimal expansion / excess.

Depends if you have PV and want to ‘stir’ the tank when diversion is happening, as, tbh, that’s when I’d recommend fitting the pump to aid stratification. HRC pump will sort that if not ?

That's the best option, but would need to be very robust, including a rights of access to the 3rd party ground that the pipe lays in for repair / replacement etc. In terms of pressure and flow, if this is a tee'd supply and the run is huge back to the 'street' then you would need to be able to demonstrate that you are not going to starve the existing dwelling of it's own flow and pressure. That can be mitigated by you installing accumulators, prob 2 or 3x 500L, so you can always run taps off your own 'artificial cold mains'. That would stops arguments when you and the seller both jump in the shower at 07:30 and the flow runs to a dribble. Any chance you can get statistics off the sellers supply atm? Would be critical data before advising any further on tee'ing into that supply. Could be a game changer in simplicity and mean owing the dwelling asap.

Yes, you're right. Was just thinking of a completed system producing water fit for consumption, but, for the purposes of proving, just the pump needs dropping in and samples taken to prove it can be made potable by treatment and volume available. Good point

I mean the equipment downstream of the borehole. Accumulators, filters, expansion vessels and the what-not eg a plant room / space which is populated for the purposes of the investigatory works, which then is not in a convenient place when you come to renovate.

Nu-Heat = ?. Go with Wunda.

External foam is all superfluous so get rid of as necessary

Get the seller to pay for a water supply, howsoever achieved, as this obviously needs doing by somebody at some stage. If I was selling I’d do one or the other and say “serviced dwelling” and then await a quicker simpler sale with the costs recovered therein. Kick in the nuts is, if you get the supply in, first, then you may need to relocate the equipment later. Allow for that consideration in your factoring

OK, the DAB unit you linked is simply a pump that sucks water out of a A>B break tank ( a barrel basically ). Barrel runs dry, outlets 100% cease to flow. Major issue. Cold mains fills the tank via a float valve, so the same way water refills your WC, and the only water you can get is what is stored in the unit and then that's it.....zero ( until the very slow fill rate of the float valve refills the unit to the point where there is a useful amount of water back inside it so prob about 15-20 mins to recharge before the unit restores 'power' after depletion. Of course, you would train yourself to not get to that point eg understanding these restrictions and attenuating life accordingly, as you'd realise that still being covered in Timotei with not even a dribble coming out of the shower head is less than great...........let alone the subsequent 5 / 10 mins wait, or more, stood there in your birthday suit waiting for the magic to happen. That scenario is caused by that fact that the cold mains is actually then disconnected from your house plumbing and you are solely reliant on the rate that the float valve can refill that tank, the bigger system = longer wait for this "recovery". No ta. With a 'passive' cold mains accumulator arrangement you always remain connected to the cold mains, regardless of however crap it may be, so even after the water stops blasting out you can still wash away the Timotei If you are a complete and total creature of habit the pumped systems can work, and for some obviously they do, but given you have to pay a lot more for the pumped system, plus you have to segregate the household plumbing to suit, ( WC's, outside taps, appliances etc should be teed directly off the mains with a system that can 'run dry' plus you want to reserve the stored water for bathing only, ideally ), then a retro-fit is a logistical nightmare. Either that, or you have to size the pump / tank system to deal with everything wet plumbed being connected to it, and completely reliant on it. No ta. I fitted 2x 180L acc's into a house situated deep into the greenbelt, where you could literally pee faster than the water came out of the hot taps, and again the results were staggeringly good. I swapped out their UVC to a Vaillant 937 hi-flow combi, and they were over the moon with it. Even when the acc's ran very low, they could still realise that was going downhill and finish up in the shower sharpish, whereas with the pumped systems the water just completely stops and you're done. Some pumped systems feature a small acc so have a little bit of a warning but not much, and they are of course still reliant on the float valve fill rate which ( if this is a dwelling with crap cold mains flow, hence the system needed fitting to resolve that issue ) that can be some time indeed. On another 6 bed dwelling, with 3 bathrooms ( 2 large electric showers and 1 thermostatic mixer, plus 1 bath ) utility, kitchen etc plus cloak WC, I fitted a 300L acc to the cold mains ( segregation observed ) and demonstrated to the client how effective the system was. They reported never being able to turn the 10.5kW electric shower up to the max setting due to it being so massively reliant on a strong, maintained cold feed, so they often used that on setting 1 out of 3. They said there was never a day when they cold use the two electric showers simultaneously. For my demonstration, I allowed the acc to charge overnight and then walked the customers through the house with both of the electric showers running on max settings, then I flushed each WC in each of the bathrooms, electric showers remained 100% unaffected, then I left those running and we went to the master bathroom where I removed the 3rd electric shower and converted it to a wet unit. THat was also running throughout my demonstration. They were completely gobsmacked. "Result!" THEN......drumroll please.......I left all that running, time elapsed was about 3 -4 mins at this time from starting the demo, showed them the kitchen taps worked full blast also, then the utility, and then showed them that the cold mains stopcock was shut OFF during the demo We got to nearly 7-8 mins before the acc started to give up. Even with the 2 electric showers then shutting down, the mixer shower still gave hot water output sufficient to get the job done. The DHW device was a thermal store. Consultation, specification and correct design ans execution guarantee results, simples ?