Nickfromwales

Nope. It's either done right at the outset or not, simple as. You really need to instill this into the installers as sloppy work will fail in any instance. For reference, I did one like this over 8-9 years ago, pozi-joists, spreader plates stapled up underneath, stapled down atop, 22mm P5 deck board, 6mm plywood atop the P5 ( PVA glued and screwed down at 120mm centres religiously ) and then tiled with large format porcelain tiles using Ultra flexible adhesive. Still solid and crack free when I went there about 3 years ago to service the swimming pool heating setup ?

Hi. Alu spreader plates will work A-OK, used them a load of times in clients houses. Just make sure you have the joist detail done at 400mm centres not 600mm!!! Using an electric or air staple gun is my preferred method of installing the plates, and it’s important to make sure the butt up to each other and do not overlap. That will allow you to get them fixed down snug and be squeak free. If possible, you are best off keeping the underside of the finished floor exposed so you can go underneath and staple the plates up tight against the 22mm deck boards. Staple either side of each of the pipe “omega” channels so 4 runs of staples per joist void. That’s to make sure that the spreader plates are in very good contact with the deck board as it’s that which is then the emitter. If you cannot get underneath, you’ll need runs of 11mm osb set down between joists to make a cradle / support for the plates. You part fill those cradles with rock wool to make the plates distended, so the plates are then forced down under compression when you lay the deck boards. It’s very important that the plates are in good contact with the deck boards or results could suffer significantly. You’ll also need 2 manifolds, one upper and one ground floor, if it’s screed / slab ground and plates above, as you’ll need 2 different flow temps, ideally.

@Newbie1 OK. Instead of lifting the floor, I have an alternate solution which can at least be tried first. The problem here is the much higher heat loss from this area, so there either needed to be twice the amount of pipe, or a much higher flow temp. I see this a lot where plumbing merchants just bang out a generic design for the plumber, with little or no regard for its intended application, thus it doesn't always perform as promised. What you could do here is buy a single room - single loop UFH kit ( for garage conversions / conservatories etc ) LINK and remove the "cold" loop from the current manifold. Some UFH pipe connectors will be required, but do not worry about cutting / jointing this pipe, it will be fine. You can then choose 2 different flow temps, and bump up the flow temps to the "cold" area. I think this has a good chance of working, and e few £hundred is cheaper than a few thousand ( fingers crossed ). Don't worry about the thermostat atm, just fit that and make sure you run it with the other loops calling for heat, for the exercise of proving, and measure results. From there you ( we ) can decide a long term solution according to the results this quicker fix yields..

Yup. The extended longevity of the HP is a big bonus, especially if you’re using the HP for cooling. It’s a big swing from cool > very hot > cool again, x number of times per day, plus an awful lot of losses via the HP and connective pipework etc. With E7 / E10 or octopus etc it’s very easy and economical to go direct. I’m now looking at UVC’s with 2x 3kW immersions set at different temps. The lower ( 65oC ) to go onto grid and the higher ( 80oC ) for the PV. This is a plan to maximise economies during the summer and use the higher temps for the excess PV to offset the nighttime grid ‘top up’. During the winter the higher temp immersion would only be used typically to try and only heat the ( oversized ) UVC once a day in winter.

Deffo the next thing to do. Shut off the flow to everything else except the cold room and report back after 12 / 24 hours.

Not always. The water can crawl along the bottom of the pipe and under trapped air, giving around 75% less cross sectional area of contact from the heated water. The water will still flow in one end and out the other and register on the flow gauge.

Have the loops all been fully purged with cold mains water at full wallop to blast them clear of all trapped air? If this has not been done properly you’ll never get proper flow. Running the manifold with the automatic air vent as a means to remove trapped air is no good whatsoever as the flow rates are extremely low and absolutely will not get the air locks out.

The switch offers those with vaulted ceilings an easy option for test and hush, but I am routinely installing them now on both the first and second floors near sleeping quarters. The locate function actually silences all the detectors EXCEPT the one that has been activated. That is vital in a home where detectors are in several locations including plant spaces / compartments where the smoke could be concealed for some time. The new wired range ( I believe ) will support the wireless locate / test / hush switch. That opens up options for where to locate these, strategically, after moving in or to be able to move them around / add more retrospectively.

Deffo. Switching off the breakers in the CU which feed any 'danger' loads is necessary diligence to prevent inadvertent switch-ons, by a 3rd party for eg.

1. You categorically cannot ditch the thermostatic mixing valves on the manifolds. How else do you intend creating different temps for the differing disciplines?? 2. Different circuits on the boiler? Different ccts will only be fed with the designated flow temp. 3. Good luck with making that work with an emitter that takes a long time to get the rooms up to temp. Honestly. 4. You would need room stats for all zones from the get-go, and these are not optional. This point makes no sense whatsoever, sorry.

75mm minimum, 100mm better. Box ( surround ) all waste pipes with the same as well as you can.

I've never seen less than 75mm installed on domestic B-Regs installs. I usually spec 100mm acoustic with soil / waste pipes 'boxed in' to eliminate the noise of water flowing. I would not want 25mm in my house tbh, and didn't even know this could be bought at 25mm!!

This will do what you want, 100%. There is no need for it to be slotted as it has two parts which do not meet, creating a gap for the overflow to drain into. This will be dependant on the depth of the porcelain so a simple exercise of measuring the item out of the box, then dry assembled, and then installed, will assure you the two parts have not met and the drainage gap / 'slot' still exists. Expensive, but niche products always are

It's a temporary rig!! It's fine.

I got dragged over the coals here for doing that, so this needs connecting to a 16a supply via a 20amp DP switch with immediate effect. DO NOT leave it running on a 13a plug and an extension lead!!! That's a recipe for an electrical fire. Switch this off until you can rectify this. Have you adjusted the Willis heater stat to minimum?

Not. The first will emit the majority of the heat, with the second only having the residual heat to use. Connect in parallel, each with their own TRV

If you could get 3-ph electric then the Steibel Eltron 27kW ( 3x9 ) instant water heater is a very good bit of kit. Rated to fill a bath, and I’ve witnessed it running a shower and it’s very very good. Compare that to the same unit in single phase, and I can piss faster than it. Totally useless. Also, if you go for a huge electric shower, and decent instantaneous water heater, the cold mains will not be sufficient to run both at full capacity. You’ll end up using the shower on full power only if nobody else in the dwelling so much as opens a tap to fill the kettle. They’re HUGELY cold mains dependant so if you do go for an all instantaneous solution, expect to be fitting a ~200L cold mains accumulator to support the cold mains flow rates needed for reliable operation. Furthermore, factor in for much poorer performance in the winter, where the cold mains water is much colder……

Only where there is vibration, or risk of other considerable or sustained local movement. Soldered is perfectly fine for a static residential gas run, regardless of which family of gas is being transported.

+1 on not bothering with WC’p in a well insulated, low energy dwelling. The house heating system and thermal time constant just cannot adjust linear to that being sensed from outside. I have it going on atm with a very high-spec Steibel Elton ASHP ( aiming for a CoP of 6 ) but will likely have to make WC’p defunct after commissioning as I expect it won’t cope with a PH. In a nutshell, yes, but you should set the flow temp just a bit higher if there is to be a buffer or low loss header. I have just been called to retrospectively adapt an identical setup to yours, and I installed a 50L wall mounted buffer tank which was used as an energy buffer, to absorb the heat from a single heat cycle eg to stave off short-cycling. Quick and easy job.

Where each screw head pops, clean the cross out of the screw and see if the screw can be tightened. If so, it’s a case of the fixing not having been driven home properly during the installation of the boards. I’ve done turnkey projects on both timber frame ( which have all gotten soaking wet at some stage ) and ICF builds, and none have had any more than the obligatory 2 or 3 screw heads pop. 16 is indicative of the board screws having not been driven fully home. FYI, it’s pointless fist filling over these, as the pops are caused by movement. Either tighten the screw before filling, or take it out and re set the screw 25mm away from where it can out to get a nice fresh bit of purchase.

Your accountant ?

The minority shall not create any detriment to the majority. This is an open forum for sharing information and advice for a crowd far bigger than 1. Rest assured, you’ll go unanswered by myself from here. ?. ”Focker, out”.

Mine is 6 devices with 100gb shared. Topping up if you run out is not done at a sympathetic rate…..

Yup. Then see the inclusive data disappear at eye-watering cost to replace. You’re gotten by the bollaux either way ?

We just forget how few trinkets we need to “survive” aka live perfectly well. Fitted a few USB sockets in mine on the weekend, WiFi had to go off for about 30 mins. I was lucky to have escaped with my life