Nickfromwales

AFAIC there is only a downside to NOT doing the Beamshield. Another member offered up a link to a similar product, but that one did not go underslung as well as infill in between the beams as the Beamshield product does. Utter no-brainer with B&B as it is a huge lift in spec / performance and the mechanical handling is vastly minimised. Why buy cold bridging blocks when you can replace it with insulation?!

2002 should have been under the BRegs radar, yes, but assume at your peril! I’ve done exactly as you’re doing for a client who did not want to pay for excavations / removals / new concrete. Apart from the losses of a possibly non / not very well insulated slab, it worked quite well. That section ( about 20m2 in that instance ) just took a bit longer to heat up than the new extended area. The advice will always be not to router them in to your floor, but in absolute real world honesty, and if you can accept a bit higher running costs, you can carry on and do this if it saves you a chunk of cash. Not ideal, but sometimes life isn’t ideal, so go make the best lemonade you can out of your wonky lemon lol.

CVC systems Ltd have supplied, and sometimes installed, for the majority of my M&E clients builds. Very good service and after sales support tbh.

I can’t believe how long it took him to jump on it 🤣.

I’ll get right onto it 😎.

It may feel like a pita now, but if those pipes rise during screening you’ll be in a totally irrecoverable world of pain. Trust us on this one Do you have a screed company organised? My guy is absolutely mustard and travels. When they’re done you can paint it green and get the snooker balls out. 👌. He’s laid floors for other folk here. If you want his details, send me a PM.

I’d rather not have all the air pockets / voids / weaker reduced qty of screed caused by the castellated trays. These are the last option reserved for true DIYers ( to ease the install ).

That you can carry on a pickup truck so less annoyance of the neighbours also, with not having to get so many palletised block deliveries in

If you’re stuck with B&B, then do yourself a HUGE favour and install Beamsheild / other instead of the concrete blocks!! B&B founds are the anti-Christ imo, and the last thing I’d ever want is a sub-zero hoolie blowing under my heated slab in the winter.

Screed will get under the pipes as it’s being laid, even with sand and cement “traditional” screeds, and they will lift to the surface. You have one single shot at getting this sorted and if you do not take it, more fool you I’m sorry. I’m with Russell, rip the lot out and staple down with a few thousand staples. If you do this strategically you can leave the pipe down and slide the trays out. Do it section by sections and it won’t get out of hand. If you do not want to remove the trays then you will need to go to 15-16mm nail clips with the nails pulled out and replaced with No.3.5x35mm screws AFAIC as the plastic staples will not push through the plastic trays. Is this Perez-al-pert pipe, or JG speedfit / Uponor / other non lay-flat pipe? Was it like a spring coming off the decoiler? Sort this NOW or you’ll live to regret it.

Advertise it on the Marketplace here

You cannot use a DPM as they whole floor will need to be bonded. LVT cannot be floating in a bathroom for obvious reasons ( any gap will fill with water / damp by capillary action, even when bonded, so seal, seal and seal again! ).

Drill a series of holes and pump full of gap-filling expanding foam is my normal solution there.

Push the Wedi. If it moves you’ve still got work to do

Is there any timber behind the bottom of the Wedi panel eg directly above that timber? Push against it and see if it moves inwards.

The tanking?

UFH installer is just unfamiliar with anything low energy, it’s a common issue tbh with most not knowing what they’re quoting for. There will be next to zilch downwards heat loss over 325mm of EPS!! And the 50mm plus 50mm will mimic the 100mm concrete slab which most have in their passive raft foundations. Carry on as you are, it’s completely fine. How do you intend to fit the UFH onto the 50mm of concrete, and what exactly is making that ‘structural’?

The second inspection chamber can be smaller, 300mm iirc. They’re both “inspection chambers” aka “manholes” For main junctions they’re 600mm round or the brick rectangular existing ones as in your pic. Runs from any IC to a black or grey source need to be straight lines, or as near as damnit. BCO’s, usually, will not allow a 45 and much prefer straight line of sight. They won’t fail existing, so if toilet 2 is existing with the 45 before the manhole that’s fine, but they won’t allow you to add more to that afaic as there would be no access upstream. Where you wrote “soil vent pipe”, is that outdoors? Odd space? If so, can you take toilet 2 existing feed and carry that on in a straight line? Then have the new 300mm IC between the buildings, outside, with toilet 1 feeding into that IC in a straight line.

I routinely fit humidity sensors in each bath / shower room, above the door on the inside of the room, so that is not only automated, but also runs on until the humidity has deffo completely dropped / dissipated. Boost button in the kitchen, humidistats as above

If going through building regs, toilet 1 and toilet 2 will need to go to that inspection chamber, and that will go to the ‘manhole’. You cannot ‘daisy-chain’ from item to item, as it all needs rodding access at each foul connection eg you need to be able to rod from an IC to each vertically rising SVP ( to a W/C / kitchen sink / ( black or grey waste discharge ) basically anything which takes ‘solids’ or food waste. The rule doesn’t always apply where it is just a shower / bath / basin. Why are the runs shown in the footprint of the build and not going outside ( around the building ) to the manhole? Access issues?

The diamond is a clever “offset centre”, so if you lift and rotate 180 degrees you’ll miss the joist

Yes, that’s fine. Where you show the vent, I assume you realise that will need to be an inspection chamber?

OK. So Wedi Fundo may be a solution. Just looked at solutions for current clients 2 wetroom showers, one whole of room, another most of the room, and the Fundo sloping board may be what you will need to get that area. https://www.wedi.net/uk/products/building-systems/floor-level-showers/fundo-sloping-board/ You’ll need to work out backwards, from the room entrance door threshold in, to work out how much depth you’ll need for the tray former section to go in and allow you little to no step at the doorway. NOTE that the Wedi is soft and absorbs point of impact poorly, so either large format tiles or a mosaic with minimum size of 50mm x 50xx will be the only finish you can go with. If tiling with large format and the tile diminishes down to nothing, you may have issues there too eg when stan=ding on heel at that point you will get movement. You can mitigate by building up a couple of additional layers of reinforcing mesh and tile adhesive, b it be aware that this Wedi product cannot take LVT etc, only tiles as above. FYI, I’ve done loads of Wedi installs, with absolutely zero issues, so as long as you understand the gotcha’s you’ll be fine.

Diamond do an 1800x850 which i then used tile adhesive and cement board to extend to 900. Do you really need a 1100mm wide tray, or is that your intended wet area? https://diamondwetroomsandbathrooms.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=151_142

Yes, different instances get different responses here, so be mindful to look at the OP comments to see if the “shoe fits” The above info for same pipe size is because the system I’m advising on there is a “district” system servicing satellite dwellings from a central plant source, so if the HRC return pipe is smaller than the delivery ( supply ) side, the rate off delivery to the point of consumption will be extended somewhat, but, as per my advice in other threads, in a domestic ( small ) installation this is fine. How far away are they? And are you plumbing with a radial setup, or regular series plumbing? If radial you may get away with just having the HRC running a loop for the large bore delivery side, eg from UVC > DHW manifolds > UVC and not then bother / need to run the HRC pipework throughout, all depends on frequency of use and how you control the pump. I’ve implemented many different control types tbh, but my favourite is still to trigger with the burglar alarm output relay, so if the alarm is fully armed the HRC goes off, when you return it comes back on when you disarm the alarm. Cheap as chips home automation lol. A second relay can be installed for when the alarm is only part-armed, eg sleeping plus guests etc, where the kitchen and utility / downstairs cloakroom basin etc ( that you know cannot be used at night ) are shut off by a zone valve on the HRC manifold. All depends, as I say, if you go radial or series plumbed though, as with series plumbed you’re stuck with all or nothing HRC in most instances as the whole houses large bore pipework will get warmed through even if just one basin is used for a few seconds for hand wash or a quick squirt under the kitchen sink tap is needed to rinse a dish off, with those ‘calls’ for HRC flow seeing a significant amount of time delay and losses ( as with series plumbing there is usually a lot more large bore primary distribution pipe which the DHW has to replace before premium temp water arrives at these high-frequency / low volume outlets ). An occupancy switch ( motion / PIR ) allows a single burst if it detects movement at night, but daytime I just say to leave it running as the water going warm in the pipe is a dead leg, and if you need full temp DHW to wash a dish, you’ll still leave the tap run to get the warm water to run hot again, so still a waste of time, water, money and effort AFAIC. A couple of solar PV panels will easily offset moats of the years energy bill for running this, if detailed and insulated well, so point the purse-strings at more PV instead of complex controls which give mediocre results is my 2-cents. All this advice differs from instance to instance, so if yours is one where you just have a kitchen and utility loop, I’d just allow their HRC to run on the larger bore primary stuff, to only keep the ( very well insulated ) point of origin / distribution pipework hot, and just wait for premium temp DHW to make its way to you, that’s if the pipe runs are sub 25m? That option only needs a time clock and negates any sensors etc. FYI, I always run. A 10mm feed to ants wash basin hot tap that is NOT on HRC. Buy some 10mm pipe ( Hep2O is what I use because of the quality of the fittings and how small the inserts are ) and mimic the run to the kitchen and utility. Buy the kitchen tarp now, and hook it up and test it. If you are happy with the flow rate ( pipe size vs length of run ) then work out the volume of water in the pipe and how long it will then take to discharge the cold water and decide if you actually NEED an HRC first . I treat each of my M&E clients uniquely, so cater for what they want / need / how they live / number of occupants / PV or not / radial or series plumbed etc etc and so forth, so picking off info here can be a bit ‘random’ tbh, but if you read up here there’s a shed full of discussions from various members installations and what they’ve done successfully ( and unsuccessfully ).