Nickfromwales

Link Theyre all much of a muchness tbh, and made from the same stuff. No need to spend mega bucks and I’ve been using these types of products for decades. Impey do a system, as do Roman etc, but that “liquid membrane” from Mapei is plenty good enough and had never let me down. Hand made this bespoke shower ‘tray’ ( 2700mm x 900mm ) falling to a centre drain. All tanked in the above product, walls and floor. 👌.

Does the house have a basement or crawl space down below? If not, have an SE work out if you can do away with the ventilated floor void. I’d dig out, and fill with Insulaton and pour a concrete slab. Cold ventilated floors are the biggest enemy. You can have loads of insulation, but a few draughts will instantly negate it. Heating by low temp UFH has been done wrong in these types of dwellings, more things than done right ( correctly / comprehensively ). If on gas, consider nice rads, as this type of property requires a LOT of effort and cost to get up to a standard that allows low temp heating.

Neither will ‘do well’ if getting routinely soaked / heavily wetted so just lay the P5 and tank it all if you’re expecting water to be getting to the subfloor with any frequency. The issue should be mitigated against at source, eg don’t install the bathroom with flaws. If tanking, just check with the LVT fitter about compatibility of the glue vs tanking. FYI, with LVT you should be installing a thin plywood sheet atop the P5 and using a feathering compound to fill screw holes / perfect joints before the LVT goes down or you’ll see the P5 joints through the LVT.

Damon….it’s time to reevaluate

You can treat the system with a leak sealer if it 1000% is NOT a primatic system.

Yup. I’d go with that. The guy is a cock for not having the Wedi drop to the floor. Terrible detail there. 610 is good stuff too.

Ring GP and ask him whether you’re sealed and pressurised or not. I assume if he told you to fill / top up then it is sealed and pressurised by conversion. Tell him he’s instructed you to invalidate the warranty and you want him to come back and fit the correct 3rd party filling loop or you’ll get someone else to do it and send him the bill.

Right. Well, as above, he is a gigantic penis. It states in black and white NOT to do that. Get him to come back in person and recommission the system. The single tank ( in the attic ) could mean that your hot water tank is a bloody old ‘primatic’ cylinder which fills the heating system via a one way diaphragm inside the cylinder. We cannot rule that out. What is the highest pressure you’ve seen on the gauge?

Thanks. OK, the valve you’re fiddling with…..STOP! That is an automatic filling valve which allows the system to self-maintain pressure in the system to a pre set value. Not seen one before, but I have installed these before by buying the components and forging them in. Interfering with that valve is BAD. So, You should have an external filling loop, OR your system is “open pipe” and gets filled by a header tank aka F&E ( feed and expansion ) tank usually up high or in attic space. You need to look for a silver flexible hose with 2 chrome valves either end with taps on one or both. We need to know if this is a sealed and pressurised system or not. Having the automatic fill valve and a pressure gauge does not mean that you have a pressurised system. The plumber is a cock if he didn’t fully explain all this to you. 😑🙄

Relax, stay away from the light! Ok, which model EXACTLY do you have. I’ll google the MI’s and see wtf is going on here.

Crikey. Ok. It looks like the bit you’re “topping up” with is a pressure reducing valve. The purpose of this valve will be to prevent you from over-pressurising the system by inadvertently not fully closing the fill valve back shut 100%. The fog is lifting. What boiler is this please? Make / model?

What are you doing to introduce water into the system to gain pressure?

Pressure? Are you seeing this on a gauge or guessing that you have pressure?

It would back ‘leak’ through the grouped return, so isolating the hot water aka coil loop shouldn’t be making any difference? If this achieves pressure filling the heating only, what is being closed to isolate the hot water cylinder so as to get pressure on the heating system?

Like this. Link

2 modes Heating & Hot water. So, is this an S-plan or Y-plan? Basically do you have 2x motorised valves or one. The motorised valves are usually the valves with a metal or plastic box head with a wire going to it.

What is the “coil loop”?

Same functionality as the Ivar. I have seen these for sale, eBay iirc.

Doesn’t appear to have any valves https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/lITRON-AQUADIS-Everblu-Cyble-enhanced-V2-1-WATER-METER-LITHIUM-14MA009285-/254757026625?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Unless it’s a shared connection. Speak to the neighbour and turn off whatever feed you can find at the steer, then work back on a process of elimination.

HRC = Hot Return Circuit UVC = Unvented Cylinder. You could put a flow switch on the hot pipe feeds to the kitchen / utility sinks which would trigger the HRC pump when hot water is drawn.

Nope, all good. For under the tray or for the remainder of the bathroom flooring? If the latter, green P5, for the former as per @Temp’s reply.

Isn’t that only if it runs through the gen / export meter? I’ve a friend who has added panels and battery storage to a FiT’s install, but that element is 100% unaffected by the addition of batteries as the charge is captured and sent into a 3rd party BMS and goes around the existing and into its own MCB, thus only ‘preventing’ import. Yup. Spot on. You can change failed equipment but needs to be like for like, eg you can’t have a failed 250w module replaced with a 365w etc. You can add a BMS and put the batteries onto the DC side, and put 48kWh without issue. The BMS can be dialled down to zero export, and you can G100 and declare, with the DNO often either then asking for equipment details and usually a witness visit to observe the zero export in operation.

Stiebel Eltron are the Bentley of the HP world, and are Uber-fussy with the installation criteria, ask me how I know!! Not a bad thing, but they are very focussed on correct and immaculate execution wrt to the implementation of their products. A simple and acceptable ‘adaptation’ would meet their criteria; eg the employment of a much larger UVC for one, plus some manipulation of the flow temps of the HRC vs the stored temps of DHW ( and flow temps to it ). The HRC can then be made “invisible” to the HP so as to not upset SE. All in a days work lol. Not exactly If the HRC has no demand and managed losses then there would be no heat energy lost, ergo nothing to then keep triggering as demand aka call for heat, at least no more than acceptable latent losses attributed to the system and its components. A HP is there to provide heat energy, end of. It must do its job, simples. How the install is designed and executed will dictate the efficiencies of the system as a whole. I think it is very narrow-minded of SE to state the above, but that’s if it is designed for a domestic installation. If it is not, and you apply it to an adverse scenario, then expect the fleas to come with the dog.

A man after my own heart. Pulsing the hot return in this scenario would be an epic fail, and using a pipe stat to decide when to pulse would still not yield an acceptable result afaic. Just insulate this run(s) very well and switch on and off via a dusk to dawn sensor for ‘daytime’ use, and then fall back to occupancy switching for nighttime use ( where someone moving at night would trigger a recirc event ). Make sure the hot return pipe is the same size as the delivery pipe, or evacuation times for the delivery ( aka flow ) leg will be hindered by the return pipe size.