Nickfromwales

OSB to about 15mm off the screed. Same for PB. Tanking should be done after plastering, not before. The tray gets fitted ( bonded ) back to the surrounding walls with a decent amount of clear CT1, and then no water can ever get to either the PB or the OSB. Cementitious tile adhesive gets used too fill the 15mm gap whilst tiling the floor, which is pretty impervious to moisture. The aim is to keep the water where it’s supposed to be, so the quality / integrity of the tiling / wall covering is key to success.

I’m always up for a challenge.

Crikey. I need more beer. That’s more maths in that paragraph than. I’ve encountered in the 30 years since I left school Blue Peter badge on its way as we speak lol. No, it’s still a NOPE. Take it from someone who has owned and used a range of lasers for a very long time. For clarity, before we get our handbags a-swinging….. The question was about lifting the line up / down, and with some lasers they come with a bracket with a rack and pinion mechanism which allows you to fix the bracket and then tweak the beam up or down + / - 40mm ( whilst not tipping the laser back or forth ). You are correct that the beam would give 3 different plains, sides and front climbing, levelling, and climbing back down again. Why do I know? Because I bought a cheap laser back in the day and tiled a bathroom ( a bloody big bathroom too ) and the chuffing laser ( el-cheapo ) hadn’t levelled itself as the manufacturer promised it would. Tiles ran uphill 25mm over 6m. I kept quiet, and I imagine they’re still the same today. Oh, to be young. The room was so long and narrow it was lost in the natural perspective and nobody noticed, complimenting me on my laser and how cutting edge I was………..

Nope. They self-level or flash to say out of levelling range, if you buy anything tidy. My Bosch does than with a thumb turn to adjust up/down over about 90mm travel.

All day long. You can bypass the Sunamp and just fit Willis heaters for direct electrical heating, but then you ar stuck with a ratio of 1:1, whereas with a ASHP you’d be more like 2.5-3:1 so around a third of the cost. Completely dependant on whether or not the HP is matched well to the dwelling, and can run at a reasonable CoP.

I wish. Still satisfying to see the letter on the digital displays reading “ReD” ( reverse direction ) when we fire up customers installs. Basic digital meter in mine, and I get nagged to death by SSE to upgrade to a smart meter, but not sure why they’re nagging. Makes me suspicious.

I use Paul at UFH Trade Direct ( 01925 571999 ). Great service, quick delivery, good prices. Never let me down, where others have.

No problems there just not a great idea to have the pipes low in the slab. How much insulation is underneath?

Hungary I’m eating a bacon and egg toastie, on brown, with brown sauce. That’s what hungry is doing

Yup. They could just make the strip a little bit wider and add more cross sectional area to the conductors…..Not sure why they are all thinking smaller is better tbh, as the increase would be relatively marginal.

Dependant on lifestyle, so very relevant to many, including me. My tumble drier goes towards central heating because the thing is always going. Suits me to chuck it in there and go about my day vs pegging out the laundry. Sounds frivolous to some ( that's you ) but is practical to me. Horses for courses, fleas accepted.

Plenty bright enough for £35

Dark room at night, with those strips installed in the ‘cornice / coving’ I made. IMG_2711.MP4 With added footage of where £2.5k went on a kick-ass gaming PC…….🙄😢

Thus eradicating your aforementioned concerns.

£35 for 10m kit. Just checked my history. EDIT, price has gone up to £39.99…. Could be a deal breaker for the few ‘financially prudent’ folk on here.

5m is the norm, and cutting at 25mm very very rare. Usually in 3 chip segments and at 50mm or so. I bought from Govee for my kids rooms, with addressable LED’s, chips on strip, and I am very very happy ( for the price ). Zero evidence of dimming or colour rendition fading through the 5m strip, and I was prepared to add a second connection to create a ‘ring’ but absolutely no need whatsoever. I bought via amazon, £35/5m iirc……cheaper than shoplifting.

? None are true UK, they’re all just resellers of Chinesium items. I’ve bought some great kits off Amazon.

This would have me heading out of their showroom door like Lynford.

Nonsense. You need a new supplier!!!

Your PIR will not conform to that, you deffo need to get either some SLC or some sharp sand and ‘blind’ those shallows.

So basically, based on the expected lifespan of the equipment, this is a goose which will continue to lay golden eggs for between 10 and 20 years. “Less typing, more fitting people!!!”

Yup. But it would be bringing cold air in unless you had an in-line or integral heater running. That would be very thirsty on electricity. Far better to try and circulate the air from the original room which would be at ambient temp imho.

Extending the smoke detection system into there would be a no brainer. If you’re watching a movie and a smouldering fire starts, ideally you’d want to have, at the minimum, a strobe in the rear corner, but better to also have a multi sensor detector in there if the AV equipment lives in there too. Prob one in the outside ‘corridor’ that you would then create. A 5mm undercut on the door, plus a silent extractor fan in the corner opposite the door would be needed for mechanical ventilation, as a 3-4 people in there for 2 hours will all use up the clean air pdq.

Yes, that’s the greedy pricks who ‘own’ the energy companies. They benefit in an utterly grotesque way, and we pay for it. Won’t be long before they get lifted by the ankles and actually have to re-fertilise the crop. Yes, you’re absolutely right. So, my 8 panel single hybrid inverter will be installed, G100 zero export permission asked for and gained, I’d like to see them demonstrate how a zero export system couldn’t be grid tied, and then give my PV system a squirt of steroids. Subsequent inverters, I will likely need 3 or 4, will be matching equipment and all set to zero export, and all function in parallel. Those dual input hybrids then have a connection for the batteries, so 48kWh of batteries intended. 24kWh for the get-go, then do 12 months statistical data gathering, and then add prob another 24kWh next year. Aim is for my meter to stop turning. After 2 years, and reliable service, I would seriously consider being disconnected and buy a small silent genny just to charge the batteries in winter. My standing charge just fecking DOUBLED, so another £500 a year to rent the SAME meter, the SAME cable, and that’s properly pissed me off. I will now pursue this even if purely for spite. But with gas cooking and heating and DHW via solar / immersion / gas during winter, I am confident that my dependency on an electric grid connection is very, very viable and practical. If and when an EV becomes mandatory, I would assume a lot of improvements will have been done by then and the industry will have to rethink its policy on the cost of electricity. Maybe it’ll be a better grid to come back to, likelihood is something else I suppose.

I can see the logic, as 50mm of LS has little weight per m2. One assumes they refer to the non foil-backed PIR?