Nickfromwales

I’ll measure up later, as I’ve just put it back away in the depths of the van aka Aladdins cave. ? Ill try it into an 1/2” BSP fitting tomorrow as iirc that’s what it was screwed into.

Phone was not letting me put all pics in one post. That’s a replacement one BNIB, that I had off Sunamp when I was replacing these in failed units. Just checked in packaging and on element itself but no markings / reference sorry. That’s what it looks like FYI. Hope that helps. Yellow sleeve just protects the threads in transit.

"re-pressurise"

Given that they ( typically ) would be anyway, via the undercuts at the foot of each door, the question would be about the merits of making that happen higher up the wall. I cannot see any merit IMO, due to the low flow rates vs the reasonable concentration of 'rising heat' at that location. Trade-off would be sound / noise / cross-talk from the rooms may be worse with the wall vents, and I personally would not want to spoil the look of the walls with the grilles. One member here ( IIRC ) created throughput for airflow at the heads of the doors by making a gap that was hidden by the header of the architrave. That seemed a better option, in general, vs the 10mm exaggerated gap at the foot of each door, but again I'd fear sound bouncing off the ceiling being taken in more by the higher level openings.

Even in safety zones, I would use additional cation as to where these ( SWA ) cables are run eg to avoid any likelihood of someone hanging up a signed picture of Tony Blair for darts night.

pmsl. ….nearly choked on my Worthers original. It may only open the gate part way for you….?

And the conflict of fan speeds?

@pocster's ideal date.......

You cannot just run these DC cables as you wish. These things are the most dangerous cables in the house. Regs, and your insurance ( and any chance of getting a retro-fit PV install signed off ) will rely on you doing this to the letter, photographing it for downstream evidence, and following the rule-book to the letter.

For the flash people out there, the Lewden offering could be in a box made from cement board and covered i sacrificial brick slips, which could be 'dismantled' if the socket ever failed.

Stop being lazy and post a link then ?

We just run 2-core SWA and terminate to the DC singles at each end with rotary isolators. That's just to get a means of converting from cable type to cable type.

Unswitched, but robust and compact. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LDPD1322SAM.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=415703895099&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=LDPD1322SAM&product_partition_id=940253954358&campaign=shopping_excluded&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=CjwKCAiAvriMBhAuEiwA8Cs5lQm3MV0K5kiDXv83n7toxfiQqwNqt4zRjkvnwP-i685q96uQHPvTzRoCTb8QAvD_BwE Bury in as you feel appropriate.

Cost benefit is one thing. My 2 cents is who would want these things in this day and age? Coarse and indiscriminate and usually throw the majority of their heat out when you don't want it, and have little useful sustain for when you do. For the size of footprint, larger radiators with an ASHP is a no-brainer, sorry. CoP of 2.5-3 should be reasonable, so not far off the cost of natural gas to run, or less in off-peak periods.

Eh? The ashp inside? Or have I had one bottle of Shipyard too many?

With PH it’s very much academic to look at ‘hot-spots’ as the flow temps and room temps delta are ridiculously close together, but even with my current job which will smash PH I still had to follow my heart and isolate the longest runs ( with Insulaton ) to preserve the temps at point of origin to the rooms / zones that it was to service. For clarity, Flow pipes only were insulated.

2 days with marker pens, then line marker paint, and more head-scratching than the pics show. That one was "measure 6 times, cut once" and I still had to 'improvise' with a few of the tricky areas. So you know, I literally painted a 100x100mm grid onto the floor in each room, in yellow paint, and then painted the actual pipe runs on with red / white / blue as the lines to follow when affixing the clip rails and laying. Anything less would have resulted in "work of art" being "looks like shart" A lot of hard work, head work, and time to get that down I assure you.

It's probably best to focus on what NEEDS to be achieved here, ( and not to terrify the OP with things that are not 'real world' issues ). This probably needs a full day for 2 guys to rectify all of the internal stuff, plus whatever it takes to resolve the holes in the stone formed by the unsupervised use of TNT...........

Manufacturers installation guidelines trump building regs in every instance.

Given that the holes are now made in the OP's nice stone faced wall, I feel I should cool the heels on this a little and offer reassurance that a lot of the 'big names' are happy with vents being as close together as 1000mm if they are subject to no opposing gables / obstructions etc. My PH design guru ( I hope he never reads this or II will have to pay him more ) states this is perfectly acceptable if the aforementioned observations are observed. @Nickw1982 The supports ( lol ) holding the terminals eg the loose bits of wood are just a piss-take. Most competent DIY'ers would wipe the floor with that, much as they would with the scrapheap challenge cast-off that is used to "mount" the unit...... ALL of that needs completely re-doing afaic. Would be a few tenners of plywood / timber and a half day for one guy max. The use of flexible ducting directly off the unit is not a big issue, and given the height you have available, lets face it, you're never going to get that resolved unless you take the roof off I would, however, expect to see at least some rigid ducting off that unit, at least until the invert where the rigid exits away from the unit horizontally and the flexible gets adopted. That's just basic engineering where the weight of the flexible duct can clearly be seen collapsing under its own weight / lack of rigidity. A section of flexible duct is often used on the output ( fresh ) side of MVHR units to attenuate noise, but usually a slightly different material makeup where a non-friable 'fabric' internal surface is purposefully employed, only usually 1000mm in length and in conjunction with the rigid / strategically used flexible stuff. Bottom line, stand your ground and do not accept any wishy-washy resolutions. This needs a complete overhaul.

I bought a Spit Pulsa 40e gas nailer ( concrete and steel fixings ) for £499 and it paid for itself with this one job. All those rails and metal P clips for here and there fixed down with 25mm concrete nails.

@Conor That’s how I laid on my current full project. Hope that helps. ?

? Why are you fitting those monstrosities? They’re isolation valves not flow restrictors btw. Any form of throttle there will result in lots of noise when the strangled flow is squeezing past that valve. You want the WCs to fill as fast and as quietly as possible so get rid of those from your plans ASAP. Most modern cisterns will already be restricted flow by manufacture, so should be unnecessary there. You ‘can’ do the WC’s in 10mm but 15mm is fine if that’s what’s there already.