Nickfromwales

Hi. Do you not have scope to apply EWI outside the frame? 70mm only in the walls, and in Scotland = cold house and HUGE heating bills. Are you on gas / oil? Also, get the ceilings down and cut ( tight fitting ) sections of PIR between the rafters. then go over the top with 200mm of wool. Detail the underside of the ceilings with foil tape, and focuss all your efforts on getting convection heat loss ( drafts ) eradicated.

Hi. Are you now at EnerPHit standards then? ( I just quickly scan-read through your posts from '21 onwards ). Bloody good results if you're defo at this level of space heating requirement! I know it's a bit of a digression, but are you referring to IR panels or convectors? I would not be going to IR panels for space heating throughout the GF, as they are very crude giving masses of heat out locally, and only "heat what they see". Surfaces get stupidly hot too, to the point of becoming a hazard. Dish washer and wash machine should be modern energy efficient appliances and fed with cold water. Kitchen sink; I'd go for 15mm to get the flow as 10mm will hold that back a little, and it's only 3m. I only recommend 10mm for a kitchen if the run is over 9m or so, and there isn't a desire / budget for a hot return system. Run a separate 10mm pipe to each of the upper floor basins. 15mm to everything else. Not going to happen without a hot return system. How often will the 2nd floor bathroom be used? If frequented, consider treating yourself to a hot return? OK, fine. As the UVC is in the basement, you could also consider a cold mains accumulator ( as you have multiple showers ) which would allow you to use both showers at once plus draw off water elsewhere ( appliances filling etc ). Being creatures of habit could negate this eg if you know the limitations, and you can stagger showering.

Screed or concrete? Where are the UFH pipes going and how they getting attached?

Only with a foil faced insulation, not needed with EPS

You should t find the two ever correlating, as you’d have to; a) model with burner cold 24/7 or b) model with burner lot 24/7. Design for the house to be u heated, accepting the heat sources as a bonus. You can’t media out interstitial condensation with internal heating as a variable 👎

Yup, much better. I'd replace the EPS 400 for something a little more rigid, or laminate EPS 400 by bonding on a layer of 20mm of Compacfoam eg so the CF is the material immediately below the threshold. You're not showing the DPC under the threshold and forming an upstand so needs detailing. Tres bien.

I'm planning this with an 11kW Iconica Hybrid inverter, just looking at the number of strings ill end up with before purchasing. Change of £2k and does UPS / EPS etc with full throughput from batteries to house CU, with micro-second changeover so pretty much seamless transition. G100 approved so no issues getting signed off. AFAIK MCS only applies to the panels, and not the inverter / batteries as the panels are the generators ( Microgeneration Certification Scheme ). The Tesla kit is very complex / expensive, and the changeover times IIRC are around 5 seconds; from power cut to EPS on. You need to buy a Gateway / Bridge or something to get their changeover facility bolted on. With a hybrid, everything on the D/C side is invisible to the grid ( so you can have as much capacity behind the inverter as you like ) whereas regular A/C coupled equipment needs a DNO approval for the sum of the panels + battery, which sometimes gets refused or a 'set amount' is granted.

Agree in part, but I've run plasterers and decorators on my private ( high-end ) jobs and accept that a plastered finish will be 99% 'there' and will need some help to get it 100%. This is even more acceptable on sites where the lighting is not already in place, and the plaster is relying on mobile lights. When I say sand / fill I'm not on about mixing 6 kilo's of the stuff, and most times just a quick pole sand and some minimal spot-filling is all it takes to get it over the finish line.

Defo steer away from that idea if at all possible. 365 regen cycles or more each year = pump soon conked out.

You really don’t want to have the daily re-gen going through a(nother) pump do you?!? Can’t you put the softener elsewhere?

Even worse, as the inserts are 3x thicker than Hep2o…. Coming off the 22’s will be fine for 10mm feeds, just use a 22x22x15 tee for EACH one ( if copper ) or 22x22x10 tee if you go to Hep2o / same fitting available for JG speed-fit btw, and don’t mix manufacturers!! Link

If those 10mm split off which go to 2 more pairs are for heating, then that is total and utter shite. Get it changed. All the T’s should each go back to the primary’s. The fact they’re push fit and have inserts to further restrict the flow makes this even worse!!

Can you get a 28mm copper or 32mm PVC waste pipe out to the courtyard? This pipe will never discharge unless the 💩 has hit the fan, so can just be discharged on to the paving there and then make it’s way to the wishing well 👌

What bits of kit need a discharge? Best to start there?

Push offcuts of 15mm pushfit pipe or 16mm UFH pipe onto the end of the foam gun, ( taped on extremely well!! ), at around 1000mm long using them as a disposable long-reach nozzle. Inject with Illbruck 330 foam ( airtight, closed cell, excellent stuff ) and job done. Remove as much of that rockwool as you can, and try to wet the entire cavity immediately before foaming if possible, makes a HUGE difference to how well the foam fills and cures. Do not try to fill all of this in one sitting, so do 1/3, then another 1/3 and then complete as necessary. Aerated blocks aren't airtight btw? Are you parging / painting membrane over them / other?

100% correct. Bingo! For the insulation, you install Compacfoam / similar and that is rigid 400kpa ( load bearing over the whole footprint of the frame threshold ) and that kills all of the cold bridge from outside to the heated slab. Matters not one jot, as the frame fixings ( the proper ones, not cheap shitty bits of universal plate btw ) will be long enough to grab a purchase wherever that shall be. Glad you posted this so you can detail this better. Think about raising that membrane, don't forget!!

Yup. I've started to specify these, but the plugs are shit.

https://www.tradepumps.com/grundfos-alpha3?tagrid=55270474 Change of £197 here

Arch #1 sounds the obvious choice to me? She designs the look of it, you support her with PH tailoring with a bit of help from the 'hub

Ok. This seems to be as good a place as any; Sparked by a recent discussion here; @JohnMo's comments set the old grey matter a-working. If a PH dwelling has an ASHP, and EV / other favourable ToU electricity tariff earmarked, then does it not make sense to massively oversize the buffer tank? Thoughts are; allow dirt cheap heat energy to be harvested and then drip-fed into the house during peak rate / winter absence of PV etc? So, set the ASHP to run for ( lets say for example ) the 5 hours of Octopus go faster ( lets run with that for this example and NOT Cosy tariff ) and heat up a bulk of stored hot water in a buffer ( lets say a 500L buffer double-sprayed with insulation ( circa 110mm thick ) storing at 50oC for this exercise ), and then laminate this with also heating, in parallel, the ( assumed ) passive raft heated slab, thus 'charging' the house thermally for the day ahead. Setting aside the space required for such a vessel, but looking at this on the basis that a ( say 150L ) buffer is going to be bought and installed anyway; so this just needs a few more quid and some more height to facilitate, then what's not to like, please? Low-ish storage temp vs high volume + high level of insulation = low standing losses, so also assuming here that any 'waste' heat would be adventitious. Fire away.

Raise the radon barrier to underneath the 2nd layer of EPS and it will form both radon and DPM if you select the correct membrane. DPM down that low, and omitted higher up is also something I've never seen, other than with Kore, but even then they turn it up the outside of the EPS basket and back over at ToC as DPC. Apart from all these things wrong with it, your on to a winner

Gotcha. I was about to follow @Temp, as we both missed that detail. Still don't like it either lol Do as I do with each slab / foundation / raft I specify, and as @Russell griffiths says, and replace the upper projecting layer of EPS with Marmox / similar load-bearing product ( 400kpa ). The upper layer of EPS in a raft design is usually only 100kpa, so no good for this detail with reduced concrete cover there, eve with steel fibres. Cold-bridging is also terrible in the design you show.

Yup. Give the guys at CVC a shout and mention my username and the forum. Nick will look after you, great bunch of guys who provide for all of my clients builds. Not the cheapest, but my clients don't ask for cheap ( on the basis of; "you get what you pay for" etc etc ).

You’ll never get a spread who can lay on plaster that doesn’t have a bit of a wobble when immediately highlighted by someone shining light down / towards / across it. You should have a painter / decorator who will understand these issues and undertake a bit of pole-sanding wherever necessary. Turn the light away and watch the finish immediately become ‘acceptable’. Get a torch and shine it down walls that you’re comparing this too, and see how quickly you realise that they’re also less than perfect when “under the spotlight” A bit of sanding and filling is not unheard of where things like this occur, so suck it up and be realistic folks!!!!

If the SF actually ever needs heat, it’ll be next to zero. My bag-of-shit 500mm thick stone walled house / pitiful levels of insulation needs air conditioning on 24/7 to manage overheating up there for prob 10 months of the year, for context. It would be early to mid 20’s up there today without it. Putting the same flow temp into the OP’s SF ( from one shared manifold, ergo set to a higher flow temp than the SF would ever need ) with a full spread of pipes will likely overheat / overshoot the stat settings and be a little unmanageable, unless this is a mansion with 4/5 spaces up there.