Nickfromwales

It could have gone into the concrete, but not the end of the world. I've recently done one with the same spec, but persuaded all involved to ditch the screed and drop the pipes into the constructional slab. Works like a whopper of a storage heater if you heat the core, but will possibly be a bit more responsive if atop. Different horses / courses etc. I'm also bewildered at the constant detailing of this errant DPC, and see it with Velox, Nudura, and Isotex. My 2 cents is as above, EPS in non hygroscopic so pointless afaic.

Apologies, I seem to have missed this! They are screwed at the very ends only, and are floating for the full length. The screws go through the vertical battens and into the ends of the horizontals, with 2 screws in the pattern of a 2 on a dice. I cut the horizontals a mm or so oversized so they are a nice tight fit, and used 4x80mm screws.

Yup. I always spec a rising cold main at the kitchen sink, if the primary one rises in the plant room, so there’s no wait for raw, cold water. My main concern was, if there were to be any hot returns they’d need insulating.

I install Geberit, and they make a shallow profile frame that will sit within a 100mm ( typical 4x2" ) stud wall. Would that help? Not sure if Grohe do one that thin.

Only consideration I can think of is if you need to insulate the pipes?

Will the 15mm pipe push up into the ceiling void at all? You need around 40mm of movement to get these coupled.

Just remember if you insulate and lay carpet you'll need something to deal with point loading. Can you be persuaded into installing engineered floor or tiles? Will save on the depth and cost of the wooden deck board to go over the insulation.

Much better one here for £112. LINK Plumber will charge more to come out and condemn the existing one. Time to put good money after good, especially if you've been having trouble before.

Is any electrician going to charge less than£80 for a callout? I know I would be more than that if I was called out to a property to give an hour of my day ( thus deleting a full working shift from my diary ).

You could possibly get away with retro-fit overlay UFH here if the finished floor is a porcelain tile, as this will make the floor a much better emitter of heat. Carpet will always make this a no go afaic. This will always be a very poor installation, with elevated running costs, so seriously consider sticking with rads.

https://www.vpsunderfloorheating.co.uk/product/prowarm-pro-digital-remote-silver/

Looks like it’s supposed to read “Err” aka error to me. As @ProDave says, if you can remove the controller and connect to the wires that feed the heating mat / wire to a bit of wire with a 13a plug, you can fire this up directly for 30-45mins to see if the floor heats up. No longer as it’ll be missing thermostatic control!! Please feed it with an RCD earth protected lead to keep this process safe. Do you have an RCD in the fuse board? If so, we can rule out an earth fault with the heating mat / wire.

Currently engaged in Amersham and Ipswich, so defo an area they'll cover. Let me know.

You could hybrid this and put 100kWh of batteries and 100kWp of solar, as it would all be on the DC side and 'invisible' to the grid. They's only care about the size of the inverters and what they have been set to discharge into the grid. That can all be set to zero export via the export limitation software. With 3ph, you can simply set each inverter to allow 3.5kW export and get the SEG ( using all registered / approved equipment of course ). Register as nothing, they can mind their own business. I'd split between the 3 roof elevations, covering East, South, and West which will give a very long 'solar day'. I'd not put a massive system all due South as it's a lot to consume in a shorter period of time.

What area? I've started giving work to a 3 strong gang for my ASHP installs, great guys tbh ( a refreshing change to the usual 'plug'n'play only' pipe jockeys I've come across over the last 4 years or so ). PM me if you are still struggling, and I'll connect you.

Hi. When exactly did you make your application? Historic applications would permit you to carry on with the basic system.

You may have to cut the pipes back slightly. May the force be with you.

Hi. So do you have a concrete floor or a floating floor with a ventilated void? Any insulation anywhere that you know of?

Thanks, I can see the residual silicone upon closer inspection. Glad to hear.

28mm stopcock won’t upset the flow rate. I wouldn’t fit another lever valve tbh.

32mm from house to street? Is that 28mm pipe and a 28mm lever valve?

Expensive, but good. Worth the extra £10. https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-stopcock-22mm/18986

It shouldn’t be in there, as a primary stopcock is supposed to be a proper stop-tap. Change it to a 22mm x 22mm stopcock and if it ever fails again, you just screw the guts out and overhaul it in situ.

I just removed a cheap experimental one that I bought off eBay, an all metal ( stainless steel ) one, but it got stuck closed. Binned it. Moving electromechanical parts in an inaccessible place equals failure. The icon fans need a monthly dust out, but perform flawlessly. Just the noise is kissing me off ( going back from a silent in-line fan. ) so improvements are to follow.