Nickfromwales

I work on clients' bulds, and speak from what I've seen on pretty much every project, not just "chatting shit" here, me old china mug Bad experience, should read expectations either not met, or worse. Not just my words, clients words also. On the flip side, some great architects ( and keen architectural technicians ) out there, who seem to be struggling to get recognition and a foothold in the industry. Only my own opinion from hard evidence on live projects, so don't worry about me having too much of an impact on the poor architects They'll be just fine.

It's probably block then, which is like a teabag. Take all the paint off, scratch it up, and apply a new layer of waterproofed render. Maybe that would hold the damp from getting to the back of the paint.

Oh, dear lord!! No. Try the opposite. Architects draw great pictures, and then say "oh, it's 5 o'clock, bye" when it gets down to anything regarding technical detail / insulation / airtightness / and any slight hint that they may need to calculate or consider plant space and mechanical thoroughfares etc, and they're gone faster than you can say " where's the architects car gone?" when you spot their oversights / omissions. Wrong professional for this I'm afraid. You'll be able to get bags of info from here tbh, just start bashing away at the search facility and topics and get stuck in . Put the time and effort in doing your own research and then you won't need these people. Ask questions here and the answers will soon follow

Hi. What is that 'planter' made out of? Breeze block? Is there any liner inside it, and is there drainage for when it's raining?

+1. Plunger.

You use the one that gets sent with the bent one, that you'll get as part of the original frame + gubbings Just bin ( or eBay the rest )

Nope. That’s a pan connector extension. Just a straight pan connector. Hold the front page. Geberit make a straight one https://www.tapsempire.co.uk/product/geberit-monolith-straight-pipe-connector-for-floor-wc/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5pShBhB_EiwAvmnNV3nTvu4cVTIgpW6WSJfTBxqPyKD9TiAFYoMD664__4P-EN6nxCQ_xRoC03QQAvD_BwE Just email the supplier / manufacturer to check it clicks into the captive / locking clip on the frame, and job done.

The 3ph meter box is physically larger than a 1ph one. Which do you have installed? Google will help.

If it is the flow of the central heating then you would have to isolate the flow AND the return as they are one common body of water. Also, doing this will render the boiler unusable for heating, and may affect hot water production too. Unless you can confirm the drip is between the boiler and the isolation tap, and not between the radiators and the isolation tap, then isolating the boiler wont stop the drip. Give them one email as a written warning that you will get your own plumber, and that if you are not seen to within 48 hrs then you will pay the 3rd party plumber yourself, get the issue fixed, and then that you will deduct their bill from the next rent payment.

You can stop paying rent until this is fixed. Just photograph the boiler leaking, and meticulously document the correspondence between yourself and others. Send everything via email or message. When the money stops going out you will need to have it to hand to make the arrears payments immediately upon the issue being resolved.

Says 12cm depth, so yup, you're into a bigger stud I'm afraid. Or send it back. You just bin the Geberit stuff and put a normal pan connector onto the pan

FYI, I bond the vertical 4x2's to the frame and drill into the metal ( long 3mm pilot drill ) so the frame supports the timber and vice versa. By the time you combine this, drilling 40mm holes low down in the stud isn't ever a problem ( drill dead centre ). @jayc89, Why not exit the building with the 2x 40mm pipes before you strike the 2 x 4x2's closest to the frame? Then boss them onto the soil pipe externally ( if not too 'ugly' / in plain sight )?

Just double up the studs that you need to drill through, and you can stay at 4" They do one which goes into a 100mm stud wall https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/geberit-slimline-114cm-wall-hung-wc-frame-with-sigma-8cm-cistern Cheaper elsewhere.

I think a lot of DNO's are now fitting 3ph heads regardless, in an attempt to start some smarter thinking / future-proofing. You can have 1, 2 or 3 phases connected, depending upon your connected loads / if you want oodles of PV / rapid 3ph EV charger etc.

It's called "covering ones arse so one cannot possibly fail".

All depends where the CT clamps reside?

Defo stainless ring-shank. How many times do you need to remove? Plus, this will be captive, so the lot would have to come off, up to the point you needed access. If you ever need to remove a plank, just use a pin-punch to drive the nail all the way through and out the back of the plank to release it.

Go back and challenge. This is nonsense, sorry !!

This can all be achieved with a posi-joist deck tbh. I have installed many, been around loads, have installed UFH atop, tiled atop and for all uses of spaces ( bedroom / other ) with ZERO squeaks and ZERO issues with deflection. You will get deflection, but not anything where you will stop and make a note of it ( if you install the posi's properly and reinforce with stiffer joists and never more than 400mm o/c's. I do nothing other than help create forever homes for private self-build clients, so failure is defo not an option, quite the opposite. B&B is massive overkill AFAIK.

+1 to no upper floor(s) insulation ( other than acoustic if necessary / mandated by BCO ).

+1. "Airtightness, airtightness, airtightness". Ventilation heat loss is the killer, fabric heat loss comes second. If you manage airtightness then the heating issue becomes easily manageable ( in a true low-energy dwelling ). I took 3 days for my current clients PH to drop 2.7oC after I set the ASHP to 15oC flow temp!! Clients stated that the property was a bit too warm to work in ( sweeping / tidying up etc ) at circa 19.0oC on the central room stat! That's without the MVHR fired up yet, and the doors opening and closing all day long with trades in / out. Did I mention airtightness?

What's the U value of the Isotex wall? I can't remember off hand.

Have you run this again, using a different supplier and 92mm radial ductwork? Punching smaller ( sub 100mm ) holes in steels before they're delivered to site is a doddle, and I do it for most of my M&E clients tbh. For 120mm holes ( penetrations ) you can still do this and just plate / reinforce the steels by design from your SE. Would save 2x plant rooms for MVHR ( if that bothers you or not of course? ). Your EC should be screaming "fabric first" from the rooftops. See above. Nice! Defo a good candidate for ICF too. The insulated slab will likely need a lamination atop, of UFH in screed? If PH ( or as near as damnit ) then I'd say that it would be pointless to insulate > UFH > screed, and I'd just allow the heat to 'soak' into the insulated concrete as a bity of a heat capacitor.

Is this because the system designer has defaulted to series-run 125mm ducting ( or larger ) everywhere? I've recently installed a heatpump for an Insulhub client in Oxford, and that is a 7kW unit in a medium sized 3 bedroom dwelling. It very rarely gets above 4-5kW output and that was in the utter depth of winter. To hear you will need this size of HP must mean you're building a much larger property or not going fully airtight etc? Has your EC dictated any of these target values to justify the sizing? I am assuming you are going with UFH in an insulated raft foundation, as Jamie and the gang did in Oxford. That slab is performing ridiculously well btw.

Thanks @Temp Seems that continuous mode uses either comfort or economy temps, and doesn't actually shut off. I expect having DHW and a HRC running when in residence has masked this occurrence. Case closed. "Watson, fetch me my pipe!".