Nickfromwales

Hi @bullishbroker24 and welcome. You should look for batteries where the entire pack is "balanced", as they are not in those batteries ( these are cheap batteries for a reason ) Similar looking 'rack mount' batteries in this thread, which I currently have on the table in my list of battery options. But these are balanced. Have a quick read. Also, are you really going to be able to charge AND DISCHARGE 20kWh every 24hrs? Sounds like a LOT of storage to me?

🙄 @jack Do try and keep up, please @Sparrowhawk Do try and keep up, please 🤣

Yup, you've just found it Welcome aboard! I've always used box attenuators for silencing, plus I'm always over-generous with duct runs ( doubling-up where others would run a single ) and I've ALWAYS been an advocate of installing the next size up unit vs what is required. I've used one cheap bag of shit from EsaveP which was a boat anchor, and then went to Brink ( which are Passivhaus certified ) and haven't looked back. If a job needed a 325 ( with 160mm connections ) I would simply jump to the 400 ( with 180mm connections ) so I could reduce the fan speed for the same duty. My clients have always, without exception, reported that the units run absolutely silently and still maintain excellent air quality / function very well. As said, the best equipment can be installed poorly ( mostly through lack of mitigation by design ) so choose well when making the final selection. And yes, salesman will always say theirs is the best one. That's been happening for centuries

In that case I’d prob look at a 10a RCBO in the CU for each floor of lighting, plus another for outside / landscape, and then use din rail mounted 2a or 4a MCB’s to feed each lighting device. I’m not familiar with much HA stuff tbh, as I only ever hear of it failing ( so have been avoiding it, unless the client has demanded it be brought in ). I’ve always delegated or asked ( told ) the client to get a 3rd party HA contractor in and that we’d work with them.

I install HRC's on 95% of my turnkey M&E installs, so yup. You just need to insulate the hot and the hot return VERY well. Lots on here about how to control them, with my favourite being via PIR / occupancy sensors in each bathroom etc.

I do that for most clients, but occasionally, if the topology lends itself, I will go through the slab ( insulation layer ). Eg on my current one at Gravenhill I am doing this with the kitchen sink so I can avoid having to install a hot recirculation system. I just needs a lot of thought and coordination, and sometimes it's impractical as other trades will be screaming at you to get a wiggle on.

It's because it would be a suicide mission, as guaranteed the follow on trades will decimate all of their efforts made, to the point up to where they disengaged.

Yup. I used to install switching and dimming ( DMX512 ) when installing sound and lighting rigs for nightclubs / universities etc, and this is what we did. Lighting setups were all in 19" racks and had their own feeds from the 3ph DB. A bit on the fence when it's a residential as it may / may not be cost-effective, but as I don't have a drawing for the job it's hard to comment comprehensively.

B.Regs are indiscriminate, but they're that way simply to prevent people straying from them, executing their "unique" own interpretations , and then falling onto their own ill-informed swords. You can redirect with 2x 50mm with ease. Crack on, or you won't get a sign-off. Simples.

Apologies, I missed this. I just googled the specs, and they don't make one that small, really sorry

Indeed. I'm fitting one for a current client, for this exact reason. It's a 'passive house' so will have no heating on the 1st floor, will have an electric towel warmer on 24/7, and then a small ( 600mm x 300mm ) matt white IR panel for said quick blast of heat when drying off after a shower. I am installing a Quinetic momentary push switch + non-latching receiver which will trigger a countdown timer ( 5 mins ) so after a shower it can be activated with wet hands but it cannot be left on inadvertently after exiting the room.

You'd have a great looking garage though Just have dinner in there?

Get the amount of insulation in that you want, and cover the ceiling joists ( as they're just cheap tanalised timber anyways ). Plasterboard right through, and then get some reclaimed oak sections made up and screw on these lengths to make it look like the joist ( rafter ) ends were exposed. You need markers so you can screw through these and into the covered timber, for fixing them. Recess the screw heads slightly, and make plugs to fill the screw holes. Plaster up to the faux oak timbers so you have a rustic edge ( as you'll have on the walls ) and then get yourself painted, and off to the pub. Faux beams can be made to look authentic quite easily, and would look shit-loads better than a plain ceiling in there ( IMO )

LOL

CU and breakers need to be like manufacturer, eg no mixed manufacture equipment, and stand completely alone from any other 3rd party equipment / manufacturers. It's a no from me.

Great option for anywhere you could be sat down and the heat can literally be pointed at you. Beware, as the second you move away from the field of heat you'll go stone cold instantly. The big benefit is that even in windy conditions you stay 'heated'. I've no need to tell you that they need to be on constant, but they are zero maintenance and super-convenient. Edit to add, make sure they're IP rated for outdoor use!!

If I was given them for free, let alone cost, I'd still put them on eBay and use the money to off-set the cost of installing full wet UFH. The running costs, proportional to the dwelling type accepted, will still be THE most expensive option out there. It'll be on a par with LPG!! Yes, they're 100% efficient or thereabouts, but they still need to be fed direct mains electricity on demand and have zero ability to store / offer sustain. Furniture plan will be constrained by the location of these, so "moving rooms about" goes out the window ( as these will need dedicated circuits / outlets ) and they will be adversely unsympathetic in terms of comfort as they heat what they 'hit'. Charging a constructional slab ( insulated "passive" raft ) via an ASHP from cheap rate electricity in a low energy dwelling can see your cost per kWh of heat being down as low as 5p, but the least you;ll see with direct will be the cheapest rate(s) I know of atm, which range from 22p to 35p. It's proportional as I say, but running costs / future buyers fears are the big concerns. 👎

This early on in the game you can discuss here and find where this frame is going to leak, and make a plan to mitigate against it at relatively low cost impact. Getting the ACH down to 1.0 or less, will be a very fruitful endeavour, as the closer to 3.0 you get, the worse the effectiveness of the HR element of the MVHR. Get involved, find the weak points of your chosen frame, and get your hands ( and elbows ) dirty!!

If you mean a spray head which you can use to rinse etc, then one of these types of taps may be of interest. You pull the tap nozzle and it comes out on a flexible hose. https://www.sinks.co.uk/franke-eos-neo-mono-hole-mixer-kitchen-tap-with-pull-down-spout/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAutyfBhCMARIsAMgcRJQiL_Gq0kk-a4464rEz3x_9OoZnpB89bcDDgoEqyVoX2CiJ_NgFj3EaAoH8EALw_wcB

I'm 4 IPA's in mate. You own this. The night is yours. I'll go open #5, and you work out the impact that CCA would introduce to the maths. I'll have @SteamyTea check this over and authenticate at 08:00, so use your best crayons please

Depends on how many cores you need, and how many cables you've run. One twisted pair per ferrule has been fine for everything I've done to date tbh, but I always segregate and never run signal and mains in parallel for any distance ( all squeezing through a shared transit is fine afaic ).

I use screened Cat5 and put on of the twisted pairs into a bootlace for each core ( so 4 connections per Cat5 cable over 8 cores ( 4 pair ))

You need to prime these first, or the wet tile adhesive will just reconstitute the paint and the lot will fall off. https://underfloorheating-direct.com/ultra-prime-it-multi-surface-primer-39579-p.asp?gclid=Cj0KCQiAutyfBhCMARIsAMgcRJQDAkGRyn7AGC0-kosxI8Zl65oB8HirM96KPIT0ylPVK_u1EfnNRp8aAlUFEALw_wcB 50/50 with water and apply from a bucket with a sponge, with the solution not quite running down the wall. Wait an hour, then apply neat and leave to dry. After prob an hour or two you should be good to go.

Something like this will do tbh; https://www.google.com/search?q=gypsum+adhesive&sa=X&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB860GB860&biw=1536&bih=754&tbm=shop&ei=r933Y46xFI7VgQa0tYmoBQ&ved=0ahUKEwjOxJKTzqz9AhWOasAKHbRaAlUQ4dUDCAg&uact=5&oq=gypsum+adhesive&gs_lcp=Cgtwcm9kdWN0cy1jYxADMgcIABCABBAYMgkIABAeEPEEEBgyCAgAEAUQHhAYMgsIABAIEB4Q8QQQGDILCAAQCBAeEPEEEBgyCwgAEAgQHhDxBBAYMgsIABAIEB4Q8QQQGDILCAAQCBAeEPEEEBgyCwgAEAgQHhDxBBAYMggIABAIEB4QGDoKCAAQgAQQsAMQGDoJCAAQCBAeELADOgkIABAeELADEBg6DggAEAgQHhDxBBCwAxAYOgsIABAIEB4QsAMQGDoJCAAQDRCABBAYOgYIABAHEB46DQgAEAgQHhANEPEEEBg6CggAEAgQHhANEBg6CggAELEDEIMBEEM6CwgAEIAEELEDEIMBOgUIABCABDoLCAAQHhANEPEEEBg6CggAEAUQHhANEBhKBAhBGAFQiRtY7DVgtUFoAXAAeACAAY8BiAHTCZIBBDAuMTGYAQCgAQHIAQrAAQE&sclient=products-cc#spd=9699038899737614391