Nickfromwales

Happy days. The airtightness scores we've had from a few on their builds have been extremely good ( 3 with sub 0.3 ACH, one was 0.25! ). Allows us to spec smaller heating systems too. Darren, who heads the airtightness team, is very meticulous. There are, indeed, very few who offer what they do. Consider the 300mm blown cellulose offering ( their upper tier passive spec ) as, combined with the 400mm in the roof, the sound deadening is incredibly good vs PIR filled roof / wall types ( if budget allows that is ).

Understood. @pocster PLEASE do not mount this on your dining table. There, that better?

You are NOT mounting this on top of your dining table. NO.

Sorry @Andehh, but that is not great. That duct should not be exposed externally, so please insulate it at the very least. And internally too! The cold bridge you've introduced there is "significant". You should have bonded these down and then gone through with a pre-insulated duct. https://flexibleflueliners.com/product/high-temp-177-330mm-multi-purpose-flat-roof-flashing-black/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Main Feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=633&campaignid=18820525657&adgroupid=140474702782&keyword=&device=c&gclid=CjwKCAiAk--dBhABEiwAchIwkSyJgYhRAyV1DIPmCmTWlkPxB28yFB7SYkzKJGPVnFJwlRbkKIqNPRoCpOQQAvD_BwE I hope they last, but I would not accept that on any of my ventilation projects. ( Sorry again ).

Fibres every single time. A no-brainer afaic. Why not make this a pissy mix of 6mm aggregate concrete all-in? Lots of shouting at it and it'll practically lay itself.

Yup, and oddly it's coming out of you faster than you're drinking it.....

Noisy in the rain, that's the only downfall with those. Best off with that, and have wall lights up lighting the ceiling instead of ceiling lights?

This is nothing to do with the UFH, is on a different circuit, and won’t remove air from the UFH loops. The vents need to be on the manifold rails to resolve your issue. Go buy some. Don’t make me come down there 💪.

The gate valve is there to balance the flow between the heating and the hot water cylinder coil, eg so the cylinder doesn’t become an accidental bypass reducing flow to the heating if / when both are calling for heat at the same from the one shared boiler pump. Defo not on cold inlet.

He's only got a budget for a 1mm bit...... We'll have to just cut him loose folks.

I always bin the pressure gauge and install 2x AAV's.

Thanks. You should remove the two manual vents and install automatic ones. https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=821&gclid=CjwKCAiAk--dBhABEiwAchIwkWErcuPQ_EMthpOZ5eBY3VATYjXY3CtsfJKiW2tDL7MfCHybjLhgixoCUXoQAvD_BwE Will be a like for like swap, 5 mins work with an adjustable spanner and an old towel. And possibly some wellies, depending on your plumbing skills. Just turn off the red and blue taps as per your pic ( they seem to be in the closed position in that pic? ) and then you’ll only lose a pint or so of water when you remove the old vents. I’d expect this would solve the problem tbh. Worth trying that first for sure.

Lol. You would have cropped the bits I wanted to see on the far right, One more pic please. Ta.

Can you upload a pic of the manifold etc? You should defo have at least one bottle vent / AAV on this arrangement?! Doesn't matter. Likely needs doing again. Get it done, put this behind you, go to pub. Simples.

Loops will all likely need to be manually purged again, as the flow rates from the UFH manifold are too low to shift stubborn air pockets. You ( or they ) can sit there and let it run whilst venting / refilling and repeating ( for ages ) or you ( or they ) can just purge with cold mains and be done in an hour. You just need to put a hose on the return manifold drain off point, remove all actuators temporarily, open the drain and allow that to run freely to outside, then open the filling loop on the boiler to allow masses of cold mains water in / through one loop / out to drain, and repeat for each loop ( doing ONLY one at a time ). You'll need to manually open each loop by pressing down gently on the pin ( that pin that gets depressed by the actuator ) to allow water to flow through. The installer should be familiar with all this.

Worse still is the builder who dutifully patted himself on the back and congratulated himself on a job well done. And a fortunes worth of lead laid onto a ticking time-bomb. I shudder to think about a nice steaming hot bath in there whilst there is a bit of frost / snow on the lead.....ouch. @MattMiller Are you 100% sure the roof is actually leaking? The interstitial condensation issues here must be off the chart. Could it be vapour collecting, condensing and then running down?

Do you need WC in a PH?

The only issue that may exist is with weather conp, eg the GF is satisfied / at temp, zone valve closed & heat no longer being injected into the GF loops, but FF is still calling for a trickle of heat. How would the weather comp function when it’s essentially being told that the heat load is satisfied ( as the GF stat is then showing no call for heat ) but you still want the system to carry on running elsewhere. And vice versa ( FF satisfied and GF calling for heat ). I’m not familiar with modern Vaillant controls for heat pumps, so I’m unsure how the controls would apply WC to different floors on different controls at different flow ( injection ) temps. Someone cleverer than me may point out something I’m missing here.

Crazy expansive? Yes, that's absolutely bloody ludicrous!! ( NOT ). How do these people sleep at night? Would you prefer something in the 8p range? Finance available? Tight-arse.

Where's the extraction for the 'bathroom', and vapour barrier? Those look to be regular plasterboards. The metal posts can be clad with either Compacfoam ( 20mm minimum thickness ) or Marmox insulated boards ( 6mm minimum thickness ). The new windows can be made smaller to fit up against these products.

Go back to the installers / designers and make a simple statement.... "Make the ducts go through the wall, please".

I've tiled floors where the average undulation was ~10mm, and that is doable tbh, but that was with 600x600mm tiles. 1200x1200 will be a pita to lay, lift, re-lay etc so I can see the tilers concern. Unless one of us is going to come and tile it, this is moot tbh. As your tiler is stating what standards they are willing to work to, and how it should be done, if you deviate from that they'll probably tell you to do it yourself ( which is what I would do for sure )..... Levelling out few patches here and there, if it's as minimal as you describe (?), should be a half days work for the tiler. Just pay the tiler to do the spot-prep and get out of their way?? I use Ultra 2-part SLC and that's never once let me down. Will feather out from 5mm-2 to 3mm so don't go to the absolute edges of the ares you wish to level. Tile adhesive is more than capable of absorbing 3-5mm tbh, ( so this is a little bit like splitting hairs in absolute honesty ). Pay the tiler to prep the areas of doubt ONLY, and crack on with the tiling. If you or other get involved and the floor gives up, then expect the tiler to tell you it's your problem not theirs.

An AP is dedicated WiFi, a repeater aka extender piggy-backs the signal FROM an AP. Yup.

When you say alley, is this just a maintenance space or a thoroughfare?

Weather comp will complicate things if you wish to have different controls performing differently per floor. Simplify this with an unified flow temp at source, and have room stats per room on ff and SF, and one global stat on the GF. Yes, you'll need actuators on the upper 2 floors, they will need wiring centres, but you should be able to leave the GF manifold as 'dumb'. The different levels can have their flow temps manipulated via the mixing valves on each manifold to give you control over how aggressively the upper floors get heated ( so you are able to avoid overshoot ). SF UFH will be a costly ornament.