Nickfromwales

Er, no? If no WC'p sensor, it would default to continuous as it could not be commissioned. It would show an error code if trying to select WC'p mode, Shirley? Albeit, yesterday was a bit of a blur.

If there is no call for heat, the 0v or 230v signal would drop and the boiler would go into pump overrun and then go into standby? If it’s a system boiler.

Continuous operation as I read it in your screenshot means it just doesn’t attenuate flow temp a-La weather comp. Not that the boiler ( heat generator ) would run continuously? Was there a WC’p outside sensor installed also when the boiler was installed? If not, then that’s why it’s set to that. I would have thought room temp setting would have been the one, with the room stat dictating this? FYI, I’ve never worked on / been around an install for one of these.

@Tennentslager Yup. Defo swap to solvent where you’re half in / out of the wall. You need some sort of rubber / flexible connection on the discharge side, immediately before it picks up the solvent weld. Don't forget to clean that pipe before you pick it back up in solvent weld, as that will be contaminated now.

Ok. So you’ll only need one manifold here. Can you explain the above a bit better please? 😊

Breakout behind? Not in front ( which is what I am saying to avoid. Surface is cosmetic, but the plasterboard behind is the functional bit. I think that’s the bit the Gripit people offer / say to use? That’s due to the size / splay of the Gripit wings, me thinks.

Put the drill on very high speed. Drill a small hole, then a larger and then the final, without pushing on the drill whatsoever. If the plasterboard blows out behind, then these fixings won't hold very well.

Have you wiped both sides to confirm this is inside the glass 'sandwich'?

What I am looking for tbh.

Defo insulate, as they're T3's! They'll need the heat and flow preserving so 2 runs each fed off 22mm supplies ideally.

All depends on whether this is one screw or multiple screws into one small footprint ( base area of bracket )? If a single fixing will do, the Grip-it all the way, as long as the hole is covered by the bracket / other.

Why do you think he’s offline here now?

Bird is the word. 👊

Well spotted lol. I need glasses 🧐

Cracking offer through from B&Q Tradepoint today. Wtf? 🤣

That depends on whether it's an airtight dwelling or not. AT detailing is done on the interior, and weatherproofing on the outside. Illbruck 330 foam is your friend for AT work, plus whichever brand of AT tape you prefer. Drilling through AT houses is unavoidable, unless you're a micro-managing super-human, so panic yea not I drill through each clients dwellings probably between 5 and 20 times, sometimes more, but AT test results always come in ( on MBC's stuff anyways ) at sub 0.4 ACH, because I make VERY good, each hole I make.

You mean impossible, surely?

Yes, but I'd then tell you how horrible the internal units are to live with, and where best to hide them so they don't piss you off Monoblock is 2 pipes, and a couple of wires. I'm not sure I'd tell a complete DIY novice to go for that type of install, but I've eaten so much humble pie I can't fit into my little black dress anymore. Up to you how confident you are, in a nutshell.

Hi, and welcome! I would seriously consider having the "builder" do the building, and then have kitchen and bathroom fitters / installers do the 'nice stuff'. If all has gone well with the TF, then you should have enough marbles left in the bag to choose, and direct, your own downstream trades ( for these individual spaces ). Depends on your nerves / balls / confidence, but with support here you should be able to add your own input / signature to the rooms which need this type of personal input.

Complete and utter horse manure. The internal fit is typically much longer with a masonry build. With a TF build you can be weathertight much, much sooner, and with staggeringly good results from insulation and airtightness, which are inherent from that type of build system. Masonry is a real pita to achieve the same with. MBC leave you with all walls and ceilings battened out and ready to accept plasterboard, with all woodwork ( within sensible reason ) installed at 300, 400, or 600mm centres, meaning the internal fit is DIY'able with ease. Ask someone to dry-line their own build and you'll see less people able to DIY that volume of work / have the necessary skill-set. MBC PH TF or Nudura XR35 ICF for me.

Short and sweet Straight through the wall, sleeved, insulated, and job done. You'll be in the pub by 3 Are you referring to a monoblock? I assume so.

There is no "running cost" of a kitchen?! Do try to say something relevant, it helps a lot

Very expensive to do twice. I’d put 100mm down, impregnated with steel fibres. Not a huge difference in cost, but a huge difference for the end result.

Yup. From the bottom up. I snip the lighter gauge steel to the same size opening as the shutter, and then back fill retrospectively. It seems like a lot at this stage, but trust me, once the pour is done and you have to get in there to alter, that becomes very small very fast

Levels and maths, plus foam or shuttering. If in any doubt, shutter the thing twice or 3x the size you may need, allowing enough depth to get 2x 15°, or 2x 30° or even 2x 45° male - female connectors in which will give you huge options to offset 110mm connections. Sit a 200x200x (x)mm EPS or PIR block centred on too of any 110mm risers, so you can get in, fit the reducer, and make off the small bore waste connections as you need to. Does GPS actually work that accurately? Like down to the 50mm increments required for this?