Nickfromwales

Cement board way too brittle and a pig to install as it needs to be pilot drilled, countersunk, and bonded down with adhesive then screwed. Completely overkill. I have only ever laid cement board under tiles when installing / creating bespoke wetroom shower floors from scratch. Yes, correct size of screw is assumed. I use 20mm screws for 3.6mm ( aka 4mm ) ply, and 25mm screws for 6mm ply. You need to be putting all of your weight on the impact drill when screwing these in, or they'll just hit the ply and spin out ( 20mm screw vs 6mm ply ), so go with 25mm screws as they'll still be 3mm shy of the pipes when the heads are flushed with the top of the ply. Set the drill speed a bit slower to avoid any "whoops" moments Less haste, more speed etc etc.

I fitted an Icon fan in mine a few months back, and it's brilliant. It has an iris which opens a few seconds after switch on, and closes relatively tightly after it powers down. Has stopped 95% or more unwanted ventilation heat losses from the bathroom which now stays notably warmer since installation. Best money I've spent in a while. It's not the quietest fan in the world, but none of these are. I bought a second one as I plan on taking a multi-tool to ( both of ) these to remove the local fans, and then having just the remaining shroud and iris in the ceiling. I will then have an inline fan remotely mounted in the ceiling void above for quiet / silent operation. If it goes well, I will install both in the same bathroom so I end up with 2x iris ( original one plus experimental one, if it comes around after the anesthetic ) teed together for better distribution / improved 'coverage' for absolute removal of damp / moisture residual from using my kick-ass rainfall shower in a not huge bathroom. There are square ones on the market with linear 'slats' but they're utter shart and do not close tightly, so don't confuse those cheap-o units with the Icon, as they're incomparable. Get that one changed out and you'll be super happy with the results. May stop a lot of unwanted cold air influx and lower the issue with the window.

Independent ( and impartial ) all the way These people survive on the ones who just say "OK", with one client having paid north of £100k for plumbing in 6 bathrooms, 1 kitchen and 1 utility....... I'd have done it for £99k ( FFS ). That price didn't include connecting to the hot water cylinder, no hot return pump / controls, and they also didn't insulate the hots / hot returns so the client inherited a free constant 6kW of UFH ( unwanted space heating ) from the HRC, ergo they then could not use it and it's been switched off since ( Passivhaus ).

6mm plywood, glued and screwed at 120mm centres max. Dampen the ply with a 50/50 mix ( primer / water ) immediately before applying the adhesive. Assuming the deck is already glued and screwed with at least 5 screws per joist per board? And zero movement? I use Ultra or Bal for primers and adhesives. Mapei is also very good.

Don't forget you'd be best off installing a pump across the tank connections to get it to force-stratify during the heating cycle.

Jesus...... "Should have gone to Specsavers" moment. Thanks, lol. I would have expected to have seen them 'apex-ed' for East - West ( so they were a bit easier on the eye ), and help with the shading issues.

Yup, especially as I haven't seen any solar PV panels denoted on the drawing.........

Moot, as the grid would cover that / other 'spike(s)', batteries are for the 12 months use not per second @Nytram I've worked on 2 MBC TF houses in Oxon ( Gravenhill and Headington ) and I speak very highly of them always. Turnkey slab / frame from the same company is a massive stress relief, but also reduces build timelines as the frame typically goes into production the same time your founds are due to start. Other spilt arrangements may see the frame only going into production when the slab can be accurately measured, then you've a huge delay where there's zero activity on site. On a previous project they were 31 days total duration from a hole in the ground to a weathertight frame ( less slates / external cladding / doors / windows ( always "by other" with MBC so they can be in and out quickly )). Have had less 'fluid' experiences when being involved with other TF projects..... The house looks great; get your heads down and crack on!

This needs proper commissioning. Get an OFTEC reg'd installer out and stop messing about with it yourself?

Ouch. As @PeterW says "this" supplier loves to install one pump to x number of manifolds. The client they left without the final ( 2nd ) fix ( that I then went to in the 11th hour to make everything work ) had the same type of spec; 13 stats in a single-storey ZEB standard Certified Passivhaus ( ) and a load of satellite manifolds off one pump. I told the client they wouldn't get the flow, the designer insisted they would, so I hooked it up temporarily to show them which person would be correct......... Cue your's truly then completing the install, trying to adapt pipework / manifolds etc after the house had been boarded and skimmed, and what a mess. Client was very upset as "they" wouldn't get involved again.

From a cost / simplicity PoV, you could easily and quickly install a high-flow heatstore combi such as a Vaillant 938. Deeper than a regular combi but DHW output is very good as it has 2x 7.5L tanks which store hot water at high temp to blend into the outgoing, instantaneously produced, DHW flow. As you say, no good for solar but with space at such a low premium maybe electrical batteries vs a heat battery would be a better investment. There's only so much DHW you can use all summer at the end of the day! The SA would fit under a worktop if you get the model 3rd biggest in the range, but they're just eye-wateringly expensive these days. Do you have PV atm?

What I specify. Very good kit for the money.

No need to consider anything for the distribution ductwork, as that will just get damp ( moisture ) and then dry out again as the air keeps flowing after the shower etc has been turned off. If the MVHR unit supply air vents are on a gable with driving rain then it may be a good idea to have the first connected pipe rising slightly, but I've not ever really given this detail any further thoughts on previous installs, and I am still in regular contact with the clients. I'd say don't worry, but make sure all joints are made robustly / duct supported well etc, and use rigid insulated ducting to atmosphere. I'd also avoid the fleece type attenuators and use metal 'box' attenuators where possible ( if you are going to install something for sound / noise reduction ).

Do you have room for a horizontal unvented cylinder in an eave space?

Welcome aboard

Not a chance! My clients all report the towels drying out very quickly, zero damp / dampness, tea-towels drying out quickly in kitchen etc. A good shower will still make the room 'steamy' but then it goes away quickly along with any residual moisture. You have to remember that the airflow is constant throughout the house so nothing gets a chance to loiter about, but this can affected by how thoughtfully the air valves were positioned. Some designers will install next to the doors, which doesn't promote airflow across the whole room as well as placing the valve at the furthest point away from the door does. As with most things; "done poorly = performs poorly", but I've not heard anyone having such issues to date.

Outdated pile of bullshit. Are these guys in their 90’s or something ? You can discharge D2 internally into a waterless trap, providing the pipe into which that discharges is a modern product that can receive high temp water for ‘short’ periods. You need to challenge these muppets. Prob find their forwarding address is Stonehenge. Ffs.

@Meabh I’ve just emailed Telford tech dept, and waiting to see if they can send me a copy 👍 I’ll post it here if / when they do.

What he said. Odd, as Chelmer seemed to me to be a decent crew. I liaised with them previously over a design for complex biomass installation I had on and they were very helpful ( but busy too ). Thought they’d be able to spit this info out in the wink of an eye tbh….

Hi. What information specifically on the cylinder? Should be easy to get this tbh.

Seriously need to de-clutter, there’s stuff all over the place. 🙄 Don’t visit my house whatever you do. Looks a million dollars, well deserved recognition.

Whichever one you want, I think. Ask Tom. 👍

Even a couple of kWp will put a huge dent in your annual electricity bills. A mate of mine has 4 second hand 250w panels that he rescued from a skip. Routinely belting out around 700-800w. Almost all of his bare loads whilst in work are dealt with by them. Reconsider maybe? With a PV diversion controller a lot could be stored as hot water during the summer

Hi @Dan F Give Tom Barrand ( EcoCell ) a call, he's on 07927 082118. Great guy, and he's pencilled in supporting / commissioning for my own install also.

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