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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. But still acoustically crap, and these days why not blow in cellulose insulation? One MBC PH TF I have on the go is north of 300m2 and the cellulose ( 300mm wall / 400mm roof ) took less than a week for one man. Wipes the floor with PIR for acoustic quality and decrement delay.
  2. There's no "may" about it, and it would be the best money spent. Ola @seano, welcome to the madhouse If I can be blunt, no, you do not want to. It doesn't sound like you'd have room to ad the minimum 140mm of phenolic rigid insulation which would be the very minimum insulation I'd ever install for a client if they wanted UFH. If the SE says this can all be dug out, then please do so! You'll need to examine the foundations first and strategize how this could be done ( by leaving sufficient undisturbed ground around footings / pads etc, but it would be well worth the effort. Plus, you'd end up with a new, flat, even slab to have underfoot. FYI, the UFH pipes would then reside in the concrete and all the insulation would go under the, then, constructional slab.
  3. Conversely, everything I heard was relative to the cables not dropping onto firefighters whilst fighting a fire / clearing survivors and victims etc. Pulling a ceiling down is strategic, so they'd have support then and the smoke would be evacuated / controlled before they got permission to re-enter. If you came to one of my electrical installs you'd find the black metal banding everywhere, every 600mm or less, as I like looms. All of it a complete and utter waste of time as it was unnecessary. Made me feel good, but after the plasterboard went up nobody gave 2 fecks about it. Looked good in the photos I now show to new clients, but that's about it.
  4. Hi. As you know we have a strict policy about members operating commercially on open forum. Thank you for reading and accepting the terms and conditions. Please feel free to share your knowledge here, and hopefully you can pick a few new things up at the same time.
  5. They can go FO. I don't take well to monopolising assholes. Loads on here have self-installed / DIY'd without issue, based on a robust install, quiet operation, considered approach to location / noise pollution, and so on. Most better than these "approved installers" offer up that's for sure. On one 'MCS' job the double height twin-fan Mistsi was alongside the front fecking door. You could hear it 60m away. Total BS.
  6. Run there, gallop back! Lets see if it was a duff batch of bits?
  7. I've stopped quoting for wiring work tbh, as even pricing at £18k and above for a typical 4 bed, we just never made any money. Outside lights, a bit of interior lighting design and some TV points / LAN connections etc soon put the hours and materials costs too high to be of interest. North of £20k for a comprehensive 3ph wiring install is not crazy money tbh, but if you get a small, local firm or sole trader you'll defo save money.
  8. It can only be the bits AFAIC? Drills defo not been inadvertently put in reverse has it?
  9. Waste of time, imho. Shims are perfect for this, cheap as chips and easy to DIY.
  10. You make the room airtight on the inside SO it doesn't GET to the insulation layer. Funny why all AT layers I've ever seen are at the immediate room interior? You cannot allow air to migrate into the structure, as managing its arrest after that is like herding cats ( aka impossible ).
  11. I imagine a motorised ball valve would have been the weapon of choice if I had to install something like this for a paying client, which the Water-safe unit is by the look of it. A paddle doesn't seem like a good option for this afaic, as the cold mains may be too high ( static ) for this to not pass a little maybe. Also may be good to check if Telford specify a 3bar PRedV on the incoming cold mains to allow their 2PZV to function properly.
  12. Telford use a 2-port zone valve on their ( Tristore iirc ) which is on the cold mains side before the manual filling loop ( the Tristore is a manual fill combination thermal store with an open header tank atop ). Maybe look at the tech manual for it and see which particular model of ZV they use. TBH it's the ONLY place I've ever seen a true 2PZV on a potable supply, but if it's good enough for 1000's of tanks to go out to the UK from Telford that should be good enough for anyone to feel happy with it. I've only ever read about the Grohe unit here, hence me linking those threads FYI.
  13. As your cooling will be indiscriminate, you will need to choose the cold flow temp well. Eg the fan coil would like much colder water than the screed / slab could tolerate, but you wont have a means of getting true ( linear ) control over that. My current project has a Stiebel Eltron ASHP and all of its ( bloody expensive but bloody good ) controls and mixing stations, so I can choose the cold temp for the slab and a much colder temp for the Brink AHU ( heater / cooler to MVHR ). Keep an eye on condensation, and super insulate all the joints / valves with pieces of self-adhesive neoprene tape and then a very thick ( 25mm wall ) Armaflex neoprene pipe insulation over every piece of pipe that will be doing cooling. A length of much larger ( 54mm or more ) Armaflex can be used to make jackets for the isolation valves, with a small slot made for the lever handle to still be accessible.
  14. https://www.bes.co.uk/watersafe-remote-water-mains-switch-leak-detector-20604/ This type of gadget has been discussed here previously.
  15. Who wants to ( can ) climb 2 flights of stairs after that?
  16. Is it just me, or is there a pattern developing there? 🙁
  17. If using cement boards on timber studs, I strongly recommend using CT1 / similar on the face of the studs immediately before final fixing the board. NOT gripfill though!
  18. Thank you for saying this, as I think it's the last option that I would choose if building myself. I am pretty much now sold on either Nudura ICF or MBC TF PH offerings. Just fantastic results without really trying, and sound deadness to die for.
  19. I'm just getting started on a SIPS type build in Gravenhill, and the client there has installed a cement board as a wrap, prior to additional external insulation, battens, render board and render, which seems to have appeased both BCO ( and assume ) the mortgage providers too. Try to avoid the block, and explore your options thoroughly Look at installing additional sound-proofing measure below the roof, such as allowing a void for acoustic insulation and resilient bars for mounting the plasterboard. SIP's roofs are not the 'quietest' of things. Compare this to an MBC roof ( 400mm of blown in cellulose ) and you will realise what I'm on about.
  20. Didn't say you couldn't. However, I have assisted with airtightness on a Velox ICF build where the parge coat worked exceptionally well, because I made sure it was detailed meticulously. Passive Purple was applied where opposing faces met, in internal and external corners etc, plus anywhere that AT tape was to be applied. Big thanks to Adam White of Intelligent Membranes who came out to site and assisted. On a different ICF job there was no parge done, but liquid membranes did go on, and that scored significantly worse. Perhaps we are both right Many ways to skin a cat.
  21. OK. So you've had this contract for years? How many and how much per year? It's just for curiosity, so don't feel obliged to answer, but would be a good exercise to show just how much money comes from victims customers such as yourself. The £3.3bn profit has to come from somewhere I guess ( FFS ).
  22. Literally never ever used one. I assume their party trick is to form a double set around obstacles vs be a tap connector. In theory, should be fine for wherever you can fit one in, but I have a bending machine and use it like an instrument. Feared one for years, and now am quite a show-off with it.
  23. Depends on what is going on top? Dot n dab or full wet spread, me old china mug.
  24. Defo a parge coat then. Airtightness is inside, and not outside. So when you stand inside each room, you're staring at the enemy. Are you having a rim board and the joists then span off those, or has your architect not specified this yet? The worst option is to have them penetrate the internal block leaf and create pockets which breach the internal space to cavity. All depends if it is a standing seam metal, and if you have the structure designed to have capacity for 20-25kg/m2?
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