Nickfromwales

Congrats. What are you building with? Masonry ( brick and block / block and block ) ? After the dazzle of getting a guy on board, remember to STILL have every nut and bolt in writing and a full scope of works in each of your possession(s). Keep this professional and formal at all times.

Cut hardwood shims and smack them in until they won't smack any more Make the shims for each gap, in a large mitre saw, and have the open gap as the start size of the shim, and then the shim doubling in thickness over the depth of the purchase point. Apply some resin based wood glue to the two mating timber faces, immediately prior to fitting them, and job's a good 'un

I'm assuming there is a reason that potable are white and heating vessels are red...... I'm also assuming that clip manufacturers stay in business by plumbers buying clips from them and then using them

Looks like a potable vessel, vs a red heating one? Is it also completely supported by the pipework?!

They did similar near me. They love the old / vulnerable clients the most. They only brought a short steps with them, and left 9m of unsupported gas pipe around the side of the house, which they only clipped at the start and the end of the run as they couldn't reach any more of it. They also converted to a combi boiler but failed to realise he was classed as infirm and that they had left him with a risk of scalding via the non-thermostatic shower he used off the bath taps. Absolute wankers. That gas pipe is shocking!! Right in front of an openable window FFS. Get the tossers back to sort it?

No bother. Just saying its "how long is a bit of string" without seeing it.

The non return on a HRC loop only prevents water trying to climb both legs of the pipe whenever the HRC pump is switched off. The loop would have syphoned out regardless tbh. Not a daily occurrence, so I'd just leave it well alone and wait for normal service to resume.

I'd only quote on a job I've seen / been given plans etc for tbh. Telling you what I'd charge here is academic at best. Nice Ferrari btw! If its any use to you, PM me and I'll give you my HP installers contact details. They travel / may offer you a better price, but they're stupid-busy atm.

There is nothing that will come out of the boiler that will block this pipe. The "gunk" is coming from the water / food debris etc from the sink, and it is that which is causing the issue. It is a rather shitty place to T the condensate pipe in tbh. Also, the type of connector used ( LINK ) means typically the installer will make a smaller hole than the bore of the condensate pipe so as to avoid an ill-fitting joint / seal via the rubber insert, so that is now a choke point too. Then add to that, that lazy bastard plumbers don't bother to ream out the inside of the freshly cut hole, in black pipe, to remove all the swarf from cutting into it, and there's all the things that come together to create your issue(s). If you use solvent weld fittings, all at the full bore, reducing from the black pipe size ( assuming its an 1 1/2" waste pipe aka 40mm, then that goes into the dog-leg, still at 40mm, and then when elevated it converts to 21.5mm to take the condensate pipe directly inwards. So basically, you're re-doing the dog-leg, but in the larger pipe size, ergo the food waste cant block the small hole that the plumber drilled out.

a good 700mm or more.

Happy days! Problem solved, and cost-effective to boot lol. Where was the gunk? In the connector or pipe? Is it a kitchen sink waste pipe? If so, it is likely that it is food debris that is pushing back into the small condensate connector each time you swill the sink. I would get the connector changed out as I say above. Should be a lifetime of zero issues then.

What about if it has been installed to, or above those standards? How would they argue against "compliance" eg if it "complies"?

I am revising my 18th atm, so yes, may just be a little rusty. My point still stands, and that it is not required in the OP's instance, eg for areas with mechanically fixed plasterboard ( as the means of arrest ).

Panasonic Aquarea 9kW for a sniff over £3,100. Telford 400L UVC = change of £1600.

At that price, a heating company would go bust. It's 2023, not 1990.

Steady, chaps! 🙄

Just cover that power point properly first.

👍

If there is a mechanically fixed plasterboard and plaster layer, you need absolutely zero additional mechanical / fire clips / support. Those are the facts. On my full wiring jobs I encourage my sparks to run through the posi-joists where the two lower webs meet, but even that is just me being OCD. For the OP, there is no need whatsoever to use metal clips anywhere on this job. They would only be required above a pvc ceiling, or above a suspended ceiling where there is no other means of arrest. Same way that metal clips need to be installed within pvc trunking. Furthermore, this only needs observing in areas which form a means of egress / preserved fire zones ( halls / stairs / landings in a 3 storey or non single-compartment dwelling ). I've had this out with the regulatory 'bods' as I need to preserve my own indemnities also vs just take the word of my ( excellent ) 1st sparky, even though he was annoyingly right about most things We really do not need to add conjecture to the OP's plate, as it's full enough!! Metal clips / banding NOT NECESSARY here.

Yup. With 200mm you could go in the top face of the lower 100mm layer, with 28mm Hep2o pipe ( run point to point with zero joints in the slab ) and insulate it with 13mm wall Armaflex insulation. Simple choice is to go under and rise up where required with the Duo. Depends on your multi-tasking skills / sequencing etc, but can be done either way ( just DEFO NOT in the screed ! ).

Tape isn't suitable for anything other than uniform surfaces with complete access, plus there's a much higher chance of them not adhering 100%. Foam, foam, and thrice, foam.

I buy 12 or 24 at a time with the amount we go through on full installs. Every project is an airtight house so this stuff is brilliant at sealing penetrations etc. Foam. KISS. Get a spray bottle and apply a fine mist of water immediately before foaming, working with the process - spray 1m, foam 1m, and keep repeating. The whiff of water makes the foam cure so much better / faster. By the time you finish going around, you'll be able to use a padsaw or similar to cut the first section of foam back flush with the wall.

"The power is in your hands". Go kick their arses, and then cancel your worthless cover plan.

Does "being unhappy" then magically provide a full set of plumbing tools and the experience / knowledge of how this should be stripped and rebuilt / re-plumbed? Tough crowd!