Nickfromwales

How do you value this slab? And do you mean an insulated raft? Or a slab over strip founds?

2nd worst foundation on the market, after just dropping trenches in. Cheap and nasty IMO, cold-ventilated all winter, a choice of the bean counter, only. The beam is 100% insulated 360° round with these products ( Beamshield etc ) including the underbelly, so the ice cold whistling wing blowing continuously under your heated floor for the nasty 3 months of winter won’t be a problem. Bare B&B is complete shart, sorry. Even with trenches the slab won’t go lower than ambient geothermal temp, but b&b will easily go down to freezing temps. Ask a client if they’d prefer to buy concrete blocks or insulation to achieve the same result ( physically). Then ask them if they’d prefer a thermally broken foundation or one which will act like a fridge. If folk are budget constrained then a b&b may be their only choice, but why would you not then improve it any way you could, given that the cost of the blocks / labour / grouting would be in your back pocket to go towards the insulated slab system?

I put a thermostatic mixing valve on the hot outlet of the cylinder, set to 550C, and if the bath tap is not thermostatic, another TMV has to go in to cap the bath at 46oC. "We have the technology"

Optimisers go on the panels. This allows each panel to function independently, and for any shaded ones to never interfere with overall maximum efficiency. Are you looking to DIY this? If not, it's probably a good idea to get an MCS accredited designer to run an eye over your ideas first. You can get these done for free, so well worth the money

Err, "No". @Question, how did this damage occur?

Mine is exactly the same, and only has weed / growth issues around the perimeter tbh. Gravel, for my instance, would probably make things harder to maintain.

🦞

You will need something that you are happy with aesthetically, for the bits above ground, and uPVC seems to not attract Roland and his band of merry rats. Below there, you could fit a stainless mesh I suppose. https://www.robinsonwirecloth.co.uk/online-shop/Stainless-woven-12-mesh-1-56-mm-aperture-p52090270?gclid=Cj0KCQiAxbefBhDfARIsAL4XLRqOMHuS0vydAnPgYkfzelJLtknW_PqPk32AoOoBwDIH9EVEe-8IcSAaAmhPEALw_wcB I think paranoia may be worse than the event, but the above would offer some 'protection', perhaps. Whats stopping them coming up under the type 1 / sub-base?

Shirley, you can't be serious

This entire thread summarised in one sentence. If the bath moves, it leaks. I always fit ( fitted ) battens to the rear wall, often with additional support where deemed necessary, and I've never had an issue. @TryC Check out suitable products here; https://www.thewetroomstore.co.uk/wet-room-tanking-kit/ Cheaper than shoplifting.

If your boy has to sell the Cossy to make your bail money, give me first shout lol.

I try explaining this to clients, some smell the coffee, some don't. Thanks for posting this!

And you should know better

You're a changed man. I'll apply a gold star to your profile.

and solar

A slate would be fine, but rodents will chew through solid concrete. Do you have any rodent related issues atm?

Time for a reality check people!!! Get a thermometer and put it in the bath when you think, "ooh, that's just right", eg just before you pass out and then turn the hot tap back off.. Please post that temp here and lets see who ACTUALLY needs these ridiculous DHW temps.

He's an idiot. That cycle should be performed early hours of the morning, ideally in line with an EV car charging ( cheap rate ) tariff, and scheduled as to purposefully avoid scalding someone.

Jesus. I leave you lot alone for a few hours and now we have a bath with a heated blanket. 65°C out of a bath tap is no longer permissible. That’s lunacy. The most a bath hot tap or mixer can have coming out of it is 46°C, above that is an instant b-regs failure. So “NO”.

No pain, no gain "If it was easy......." Temp has zero to do with it. It's about hydraulic resistance, and the resultant flow rate in l/p/m. Most ASHP's require a minimum l/p/m of circulation for them to switch on.

Consider the Frosti tap? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204087125957?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749401&toolid=20006&customid=GB_11700_204087125957.142841786797~1871722021908-g_CjwKCAiA_6yfBhBNEiwAkmXy53N4cx93hXvWAYSQKsmcwFVHnn45dXSENqXlKwj3ms5UGkKfYsPO0xoC9jcQAvD_BwE Shop around for best prices.

Fcuk me! 🤬. It would have been a few tenners to replace that all with solvent weld at the time. Assholes. Compression will be fine, just make sure you have the pipe marked with a sharpie so you know the pipe is all the way into the fitting. Boss fine. Go for it. Tell the oldies to disengage from these cocks and to stop upsetting themselves. Life is too short, and these bell-ends aren't coming back. Upon reflection, you wouldn't want them back, let's be honest?!?

Sentinel by 3M is one, iirc. Try to get this factory applied to the glass vs retrofit. Apply the same tint to non-problematic glass on the same elevations, but use non solar-reflective 'tints' for those, eg so you can have mixed types but the solar reflective panes don’t stand out.

Regarding 'unwanted' solar gain; You can do away with moving parts, such as blinds etc, simply by employing solar reflective glazing. This approach is embraced by the PHT and will be a far more sympathetic approach to a problem often inflated. Cooling in summer is far more costly to mitigate against, in a PH, than a resultant requirement for some mitigatory winter heating ( eg to combat the reduced solar gain ). I've consulted for clients, building their own homes, from PH to PH+ and above, and these issues can be easily resolved with some care, diligence, and an overall better understanding of "what can go wrong". Plenty of folk on here have also been kind enough to share their varying experiences, warts and all, so a good read up here can stand you in very good stead.

Have you gone back to the installer?