Nickfromwales

What I am looking for tbh.

Defo insulate, as they're T3's! They'll need the heat and flow preserving so 2 runs each fed off 22mm supplies ideally.

All depends on whether this is one screw or multiple screws into one small footprint ( base area of bracket )? If a single fixing will do, the Grip-it all the way, as long as the hole is covered by the bracket / other.

Why do you think he’s offline here now?

Bird is the word. 👊

Well spotted lol. I need glasses 🧐

Cracking offer through from B&Q Tradepoint today. Wtf? 🤣

That depends on whether it's an airtight dwelling or not. AT detailing is done on the interior, and weatherproofing on the outside. Illbruck 330 foam is your friend for AT work, plus whichever brand of AT tape you prefer. Drilling through AT houses is unavoidable, unless you're a micro-managing super-human, so panic yea not I drill through each clients dwellings probably between 5 and 20 times, sometimes more, but AT test results always come in ( on MBC's stuff anyways ) at sub 0.4 ACH, because I make VERY good, each hole I make.

You mean impossible, surely?

Yes, but I'd then tell you how horrible the internal units are to live with, and where best to hide them so they don't piss you off Monoblock is 2 pipes, and a couple of wires. I'm not sure I'd tell a complete DIY novice to go for that type of install, but I've eaten so much humble pie I can't fit into my little black dress anymore. Up to you how confident you are, in a nutshell.

Hi, and welcome! I would seriously consider having the "builder" do the building, and then have kitchen and bathroom fitters / installers do the 'nice stuff'. If all has gone well with the TF, then you should have enough marbles left in the bag to choose, and direct, your own downstream trades ( for these individual spaces ). Depends on your nerves / balls / confidence, but with support here you should be able to add your own input / signature to the rooms which need this type of personal input.

Complete and utter horse manure. The internal fit is typically much longer with a masonry build. With a TF build you can be weathertight much, much sooner, and with staggeringly good results from insulation and airtightness, which are inherent from that type of build system. Masonry is a real pita to achieve the same with. MBC leave you with all walls and ceilings battened out and ready to accept plasterboard, with all woodwork ( within sensible reason ) installed at 300, 400, or 600mm centres, meaning the internal fit is DIY'able with ease. Ask someone to dry-line their own build and you'll see less people able to DIY that volume of work / have the necessary skill-set. MBC PH TF or Nudura XR35 ICF for me.

Short and sweet Straight through the wall, sleeved, insulated, and job done. You'll be in the pub by 3 Are you referring to a monoblock? I assume so.

There is no "running cost" of a kitchen?! Do try to say something relevant, it helps a lot

Very expensive to do twice. I’d put 100mm down, impregnated with steel fibres. Not a huge difference in cost, but a huge difference for the end result.

Yup. From the bottom up. I snip the lighter gauge steel to the same size opening as the shutter, and then back fill retrospectively. It seems like a lot at this stage, but trust me, once the pour is done and you have to get in there to alter, that becomes very small very fast

Levels and maths, plus foam or shuttering. If in any doubt, shutter the thing twice or 3x the size you may need, allowing enough depth to get 2x 15°, or 2x 30° or even 2x 45° male - female connectors in which will give you huge options to offset 110mm connections. Sit a 200x200x (x)mm EPS or PIR block centred on too of any 110mm risers, so you can get in, fit the reducer, and make off the small bore waste connections as you need to. Does GPS actually work that accurately? Like down to the 50mm increments required for this?

In a new electrical installation, but no policeman is going to put cuffs on to anyone with gas fries with no alarms in an existing dwelling / install. However, if a GSR'd engineer attends site, they really shouldn't undertake any works unless they've at least included this addition / upgrade in their fees. There are some things you just do NOT step around because "you can". On a previous major renovation I insisted that the client accepted my costs for replacing every existing smoke / heat detector in the house, even though they appeared to be working, as they just looked dusty and tired. When I explained why and the minimal costs they agreed and thanked me for my diligence. Some things are just a good idea, regardless of regs etc

+1. They're 'beefed up' to just be inserted as is. All good .

Run the basin waste in 40mm until it rises vertically at the basin. That's longer than I'd ever run with 32mm tbh. I always take 40mm as close to the basins as is practicable. Pennies of cost for much better performance / longevity. 32mm starts to 'furr' up sooner than you'd think. As there's a long horizontal run you'll have a natural air break, so pointless fitting and anti-vacuum trap on the basin. Other than that, happy days. Identical to what I've done on my clients build, just the W/M is a water softener and MVHR waste.

The barrier is placed there to preserve it . I have always put a sacrificial layer of EPS down, and then the DPM / barrier atop that, then the remainder of the insulation down after that. Stops the membrane getting punctured by errant sharps etc. In a nutshell, but no more accuracy than everything else needs! You can fit them flush, but it's really not necessary to be able to power float over them as the floor at these locations isn't usually "on show" anyways. A quick trowel by the slab guys is all that's required there, so I usually leave them through and exposed. Wrap them in cling film or other thin membrane and circle with expanding foam from insulation > FFL, but only for anywhere where you may need some wiggle room. Areas for the showers etc get heavily shuttered out as it's 15 mins to back-fill or a day of back-breaking work to machine out. I know which one I prefer

Defo. That's all I ever do. I've never taken a small bore waste out through a raft, and never will.

You do NOT want to have small bore waste pipes going down and exiting the slab. You need to bring 110mm runs in, in the subbase, and then have 110mm pipe rising vertically, then reducing down in the upper portion of the slab. PVC waste pipe and UG 110mm pipe are two very different materials / beasts, so an absolute "NO" to bringing these out of the foundation, if subterranean.

Spot on All gas-burning appliances need to be lit simultaneously, with all internal and external doors shut and all windows closed. Then each open flue appliance needs to have a smoke match lit and then the spillage viewed in each room / space. ONLY then, and after the written side has been also been complied with, can you state anything other than "I don't know" ( because you don't know ). Why not change these fires to room sealed / balanced flues? Are they all on outside walls?

You simply drop blocks of 100mm EPS into the slab, prior to the pour, as shuttering. If it's too complex an area to do that, then I just fill the area with sharp sand and get the concrete poured up to / against that. Then use Henry to suck the sand out after the pour, sort the trays / wastes etc, and then back-fill with cementitious SLC or a sloppy concrete mix, whichever works. Tie down any EPS shuttering blocks VERY well as they'll really want to rise during the pour.