Nickfromwales

Don’t get me wrong, the majority still ask about a battery as a cash-generator, so those ones get dissuaded unless we can see a minimum 30% RoI, as anything under would equal shitty advice tbh.

It’s welsh for “here you go”. Works just fine in England too. Yet to try it in Scotland, and I was too pissed to remember what happened in Dublin. I do remember how bloody expensive it was out there though, so doubt I heard it from any barmaids as they never gave change, regardless of how many notes you handed them.

Yup. Don’t put the switches / spurs at the bathrooms, they look ugly! Hide them in an adjacent room or cupboard / closet etc.

What outputs can the Loxone give? Zero volt switching or 230v out? How many amps per 'channel' etc? The UFH mats will be using very little power tbh, so just treat it as a lighting circuit and run from the 3a switched fused spur (you'll need to retain a means of local isolation) back to the HA cabinet? Saves a relay, but the relay may be the cheaper option. Just remember to go solid state, or you'll have clicking noises coming from the relay which may have been better left at the HA cabinet

Beer and bacon. Roll on the hotel bar this evening, and breakfast at 07:00. 😋

The same one that's bent us over for the last x number of decades, yes, that one. We will graciously accept any injection of funds to the local infrastructure. But please don't be any more of a prick. What, like a magician does when the rabbit disappears?

I am on borrowed time with my boys free-standing, vented thru-wall unit, so am thinking 2 outdoor units and 6 internal. When (bloody ever) I get to put my now dusty solar panels on, the gas bill can be offset by microgeneration. Summer cooling will be blissful. I am jealous btw.

Bingo Bango Don't be tempted to buy cheap, you need reliability and longevity !!!

Amen!! Instant cool then too, so twice the bang for the same buck. 😎 Would make it more attractive to prospective tenants then too.

I think anything that allows one to stick 2 fingers up to the grid brings a huge amount of satisfaction. We've had clients who will spend £10k, for a system that's guaranteed for 10 years, they know they'll get less than 10% RoI, and they still say yes please (as long as they're not negative at the end). I do however feel that the electricity market will soon lend itself further towards the consumer, plus when V2G comes (probably closer than we think) then the rules will flip again. The heart wants what the heart wants, end of, and I doubt anyone who's critical of these maths here would stand in the road screaming at Bentley owners saying "A Nissan Micra would have been a cheaper and wiser choice, Sir!". We know it, they know it, just get on with your lives and let the Bentley guy enjoy his drive. Let's assume that, for the purpose of context, it was a sunny day and it was a Bentley convertible

Thanks. I usually quote 13-15% losses so about where you summarised it. That's the reason I'm such a fan of hybrids tbh. I doubt I will ever specify another true AC coupled inverter as it just doesn't seem to make any sense whatsoever (to me, anyways!).

It does depend on where the footings start / finish (depths) of course, but as any general builder will just regurgitate the same shart they used on the last 40 jobs, I'd take everything they say with a pinch or 3 of salt. Firstly, they should ONLY comment after conducting a survey, and that involves pulling some flooring up and getting a tape and possibly a shovel out. The depth would be made up with layers of insulation, so no need to import huge amounts of logistically difficult hardcore etc, just a base layer of type1, a sand blinding to get you snooker table flat and level, and then use cheaper EPS for bulk build up and finish with PIR (minimum 140mm). Set the top of that to be FFL -75-80mm for dry screed (relatively slow response from UFH), or -50mm for liquid screed (quicker response for 'timed on - off' of heating). Unless he has used a calculator to work out differing costs for different heating methodology, has asked you how long you'll be in the property for, has worked out heating requirements per annum, and then added the value to you as the owner re floorplans and benefits thereof, then how the feck would he know what is economical or not?! BCO will only be interested in the damp proof course, and the amount of insulation, but you should exceed what they ask for as UK building regs is dire on a good day. They'll 'maybe' be interested in you preserving airflow to the other ventilated floor spaces, so maybe it would help if you uploaded some floorplans showing these areas vs others etc.

Is nobody assuming discharge losses? If you have a hybrid then this is far improved, but if you have an “AC coupled” battery then you go, DC from panels converts to AC in the Inverter Then that AC goes into a breaker in the CU The battery is connected by its breaker in the CU Then AC goes into the battery BMS That converts to DC to charge the battery Then the DC in the battery returns back to AC in the BMS for consumption or export For a summer pattern that’s 3x conversions, and a long round trip and defo more than 10% lost there Delete conversion 1 and jump to 3 if this is your winter pattern / maths. But still more than 10% Are members here quoting this from stated figures or from the actual sum of the round trip from actual, real life (live) data? Genuine question btw as I’m about to change my planned system (and install more) and hoped my maths here wasn’t wonky.

Maybe consider doing the same cheat, but instead of the timbers you can use resilient bars? That will tighten up the joists, just enough (you don't need to go mad), and offer a '2-birds 1 stone' upgrade and gain some additional acoustic control.

This is a pic of my current MBC TF project, and this shows the counter-battens that MBC installed, perpendicular to the joists above (hidden by the membrane but you can see where the membrane is quilted where it was first stapled to them). This extra 'bracing' is achieved just as simply as affixing 25x50mm counter-battens (larger of the 2 two common roofing battens) to the underside of the bottom chord. There's zero rocket-science

Option 3; Rip the floor joists out and convert away from a ventilated floor in that room. The current direction for cross-flow of air would need to be considered, eg would filling in this area stop airflow to other spaces? If not, it's bye-bye joists and hello fully filled floors with insulation and screed.

Even better....🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Use one of the storage facilities? Short contract, or agree a deal for longer term.

Conversely I would recommend going with factory made ends, as these will resist moisture etc better. The tool will costs as much as the ready-made cable

...which is just bloody lunacy!?!

There's a big difference between being tight and being homeless. For the record, keep paying your mortgage, ok!!

They’ll still help a little, but the attic trusses are a slightly different beasts!

This makes a world of difference for deflection, and I try to do this on every posi-joist'd project. Tres Bien.

Isn't the norm to just increase the overlap slightly to run with the slightly lessened pitch? From 40 to 35 is nothing afaik, so I'd say this is fine. Just go with the increased overlap for belt and braces?

When I was installing kitchens, the top oven usually sat on two metal L-brackets and not the wood shelf we can clearly see in the pics. That would lower the top oven and create a new problem at the top of that though. 🤷‍♂️