Nickfromwales

A cheap A2A unit would give all the heat and cool you’d need tbh, and with a CoP of 3 or above Instant hit for as long as you need it on, plus it can be set for anti-frost, if the contents are precious.

I almost always keep the zone valves at the heat source, as it’s just easier to valve downstream of them and isolate locally for service / replacement. They’re just a gate, so it doesn’t really matter where you locate them, they just arrest flow. Option 1 gets the 👍

Hi John. It’s relatively easy to do, just have a second pair of hands when you uncoil the ductwork as it needs to be completely laid out and untwisted. Then it’ll need at least one extra pair of hands to feed it into the house. Install the soil and waste pipes first, as they take presidency over the MVHR. Have you doubled up runs to the furthest bedrooms? Have you allowed for attenuation?

I was saying that 25 years ago, so I could pinch the 1750cc engine to drop into my 1275GT mini.

Old school will always give results.

Not with those numbers! Was more a question than a suggestion, as I have a number of new clients who will likely adopt Luxone or Control 4, so I'm just doing a bit of mining tbh. For anyone with no home automation, it may serve them better to run a lower Wm2 mat as it will need less focus on accurate control.

Just unsure if it's actually fit for purpose? Solvent weld is all I've ever used / recommended, as it dissolves the plastics and "welds" the 2 mating surfaces together. FWIW, I cannot recall reading here and this being said, but that doesn't mean I didn't, I just cannot recall. Chillax, it's just an online forum where folk say stuff.

+1, and would be deliciously simple.

Why are we now using Pu glues to fix solvent weld joints, and not solvent weld glue?

That will be down to the SE to say, tbh. We don't know the ground conditions so cannot comment here definitively.

Will be the best investment you can make. 300mm of EPS and 100-120mm of concrete in the slab, with the UFH pipes stitched in, and away to go. Just be mindful to watch the SE detailing the height of the mesh / chairs so you retain sufficient concrete cover over the tops of the pipes. Prob better to get 40mm chairs max and accept a slump in the steel to around 25-30mm (which is fine for the underside of the slab for protection against atmospheric moisture absorption).

For clarity, I've used a decoupling membrane probably 3 times in as many decades of tiling, but if the slab 'history' is unknown then it's a great insurance policy tbh. BAL Ultra flexible adhesives are (were back in the day) quoted as having the equivalent decoupling effect as 10mm of movement of the subfloor! Not cheap, but the BAL stuff is very, very good.

Yup, unless you plan to live until you're 136?

Ok, so with the Luxone the output can be proportional? Or just a very tight hysteresis?

What’s going in the garage?

……and nobody gets hurt. 🤐

If they’re controlled ‘on and off’ vs proportional it’ll cause overshoot, that’s all.

That’s a bit OTT? 50-100w max for anything built to ‘low energy’ standards should be ample as the ambient is never that far away from the desired ‘comfort’ temps. I only used to install 150w or above when this was the only heat source in the room ( for a crappy b.regs refurb ).

In a nutshell, yes, just chop away with an SDS (SDS max will be quicker as it’ll be a bigger machine) and just be careful not to bridge damp across the DPC when you’re making good, if you’re anywhere close to it. Done dozens like this, it’ll be fine.

If you want another yardstick for pricing, speak to Simon Chadwick at SMC. He's on site sorting another window companies disasters out for me atm, great guy. FYI, Rational are one of the more 'bread & butter' options. Perfectly fine afaic, and I've seen them installed in a number of my new-build clients' homes.

If these are low temp slabs, passive levels, then cracking is really not a big concern tbh. This only becomes a thing IMO when you have thin screeds vs a constructional slab with mesh / fibres etc. For external doors, the wood will still be a cold bridge plus you should have something for expansion. At the doors this only needs to be something thin such as the foam expansion strip. Have you looked locally on Gumtree etc to see if anyone's got some going begging? For emergency measures you could just bond a couple of layers of bubble-wrap back-to-back I suppose.

You'd think that window fitters would come around the day before and foam the cavities to stop / manage the fall-out If the beads are now contaminated, you'll need to bin / recycle them tbh. Put them on gumtree / freecycle etc as free to collector, they'll be gone in no time. If there is a solid sole plate, pouring back in may not be practical / possible. I'd just wait and complete renovations, and then top back up with bonded beads. A borescope will show that the beads will have settled with gravity, so only the top should need filling back up.

Hi. Is this a new slab? Were fibres or mesh used if so? If there is any doubt whatsoever then you should look to crack mitigation and the easiest route is to use a decoupling membrane such as Ditra. 40m2 is just 10 lots of 4m2, so chill. Just do this in bite-sized sections and with a standard set, flexible adhesive vs rapid set. This will give you around an hour or more 'open' time with the adhesive, so no constant cleaning and mixing. With much larger floors I would lay the whole area out dry, with the spacers in, do all the cuts, number everything and then stack the cuts close to where they would be needed. The levelling systems seem to be a good idea, but I managed for 25 years without them and still got my floors like a snooker table. If you want some 'assistance' then these systems may be a good choice for you, especially if these are large format or bendy plank type tiles.

One cheat is to build new, over existing foundations. If you can live with the current layout then a TF or ICF build atop would be a money-saver. Feasibility needs doing by the lorry-load though, so consider your choices. My 2 cents is knock it down as you'll spend the same amount on lipstick for a pig as you'll spend on new (taking into account your zero VAT status with a new build). Just be mindful that a new build with new foundations would need to specified for 'made up / disturbed ground' so you'd likely be better off with an insulated raft at that stage, which is a very good option indeed. Good luck either way, but trying to retro-add airtightness and insulation during a hybrid build is a massive PITA. I'd just stick with masonry at that stage, and observe one discipline throughout, as long as the foundations could take the second lift of masonry. Knock it down

Does the above mean that you are independently planning, managing & supervising this pour? The lower slab needs to be cast first, and steels (starter bars) need to have been designed in by an SE to observe this type of execution. Others will be about to offer advice, but you defo need to start from the bottom, and work upwards!