Nickfromwales

Yup. If anything, a candidate for IWI instead of EWI, but would need the occupants to accept a little less GIA.

Of these what, exactly, panel heaters or storage heaters? Assume panel if off a 13a plug?

These are largely brass units with composite 'paddles'? Odd that they don't attain WRAS. Why the need for a motorised valve? Change of £85 :) ? EDIT: Goes up to £100 if you choose 230v / other requisite "options".

I think you have a mixture of Economy 7/10 storage heaters ( filled with heavy thermal bricks ) and lighter panel heaters ( heavy ones sit on the floor obvs ). Search eBay / other to compare what these are selling for, but courier / transport costs will be a big issue for the storage heaters. Typically these go in the skip with me, due to the problem of getting someone to collect, even if offered up for free. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145028123702?hash=item21c4598c36:g:9uUAAOSwEspkMyXP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PtASZ4K3hdTX83c1pJc%2BTnpAk4atJHW5UHhKATkA1B%2FYG6lGgh6D5UChFNeVmkc25AbyE9foUnZB9ySSwVk67M4h%2Fl7K9Fs2L2NIJ%2BDqvdgs7ulgXbP8%2FOfHhOCRdUvYZe63AAN71mOUmtSeljwNmgak5ncdKS9fWSOwun%2BZFgslzQG9B9AxPuvdMv16xvu7TEVvJr5%2FmN%2Fz6oVGDyPGhAne%2FqknpoApxIEAmD3EMyJPhKu%2BqTGZJxeSOOJ7PrWjQsnr4uDIT3Y5oLSZdmsnyrN7kOjWSnqKjao6lwoZ%2FUy|tkp%3ABk9SR_jM6cjwYQ

It is only my opinion, but I think it would utterly destroy that house, looks wise for one, and piss your neighbour off, particularly your immediate attached neighbour. You are right that it will then be a moisture trap, so you'd be using or introducing trickle vents to all windows ( and then have to use them routinely ) to manage the new problem. That added ventilation heat loss will massively outweigh the EWI benefits, and this should only really be considered if you're going the whole 9 yards, inside and out, eg to EnerPHit standards. Don't get me started on the chimneys, and how much heat is disappearing up there all winter.....

I very rarely state an opinion, and I think it would prudent to reinforce that what I say is FACTUAL as far as I believe it to be, based on real life, hands-on experience gained from working with / alongside the "things" I discuss. 8 years hands-on with PH and all the various systems out there, FYI. I am only posting these comments because of the fragility of the situation, and certainly am not entering into assumptions or conjecture to add to it. FYFI, I have already offered an olive branch to several members by PM, FOC / in my own 'spare' time ( in an attempt to help them avoid falling any further ) to offer more comprehensive explanations of my comments, directly. ANY woodcrete system is problematic, as the block is essentially coarse Weetabix and completely open pore. This has significant issues with taking in rain and conveying that to the interior skin of the block, and causes huge problems in attaining AT qualities. FACT. Durisol and Isotex even more so, as the two leaves are connected by woodcrete and pass air and water through the concrete layer. 👎. Velox uses metal ties, so the concrete core is as close to 100% fill as you'll get. Jamie previously contacted me via WhatsApp to ask that I remove a comment directed at the Isotex block, as it had apparently caused a client to request their deposit back, based upon reading my comments here. I had made a mistake, so did so. The mistake was that I hadn't generalised my comment and used the term woodcrete vs Isotex in that instance. I apologised to Jamie, removed my comment, and then set about observing far more concise wording to separate out issue vs manufacturer / product from that time forwards. The point, and the FACTS, remained the same however, so it is essentially academic of how these differing qualities / flaws rise to the surface, afaic. "It is what it is", pointless squabbling about it. @IanMcP , @Renegade105 and @Russell griffiths can attest to the uniformity and benefits of building with EPS based ICF systems ( see, I didn't say Nudura once there #reformedcharacter ) and the results they've achieved with it. The olive branch remains extended.

What AC coupled kWp did you declare in your DNO application? Were you told to limit the export to (x) kW?

If you have a good spread, and the "painter" is actually a "decorator" ( not some goon with a brush and a roller and FA else in the boot of their Ford Fiesta ) then you'll attain excellent results. Folk still assume everything will be great, instead of making sure. On this job I spoke with the plasterer and explained to him what the lighting plan was, on behalf of the clients, and he used a 900mm speed skim 'trowel' to make the plaster in these locations absolutely spot-on. His work was pretty much the same standard throughout, anyways, in fairness, but he was approachable enough to agree to go the extra mile where the lights would be shining directly onto / up the plasterwork. I was going to speak to the painter to ask that he pole-sanded these areas after the mist coat. He was an unapproachable angry cock, and I don't think he actually owned a pole sander, so that project relied heavily on the plasterer. The painter used an unfixed WC pan as a step-stool, subsequently leant over and went arse over tit, smashing the pan to bits. He then blamed the job, the site, the fact that he had to share the property with other humans, blamed me for not having "fixed the WC pan properly, which was why it got broken", covered it with a dustsheet, and then threw his toys onto the pile of dummies he'd previously spat out, and left. "Bye, miss you already". I didn't ask for his contact details to recommend him to future clients.

I've had second and third ( 3ph ) from them on previous HMO conversions of 3 and 4 storey buildings over 100 years old. They'll give you pretty much whatever you need, as long as they have capacity. And if you can pay for the service alteration, of course.

Unless you've started and cannot turn back, I'd just leave the Isotex block exactly where it is, in Italy, and move to an EPS block. You can add 5 figures on for getting wood-crete airtight, and months of delays getting the interior done if you're not building through the summer. Ok if you've got time on your hands, and an unlimited supply of Passive Purple, but if you're paying a builder to do it you'll be spending a small fortune putting lipstick onto a pig ( of a block ).

Is today not a UK business / working day? I’d be sat outside the trading address before 5:30 today!

All micro generation A/C coupled? Or hybrid battery & inverters on D/C side?

What provokes that line of thought? With an "all-electric" 'eco dwelling' you'll likely have an induction hob, solar PV, 1 or 2x EV chargers, ASHP and maybe domestic battery storage also. Try getting that all onto a single phase and you'll soon have to start making cutbacks. 3ph is the way forward IMHO, plus it offers up rapid EV charging.

Have you been able to make contact with Insulhub Contracting and confirm the situation? What happens when you ring the phone number(s)?

The downstairs ones in plaster, as they needed to be made airtight ( as they had to be recessed eg cut into the wood crete ) but the upstairs ones above I cut in after the plastering and painting ( mist coats ) were done. I then, personally, cut these in, mechanically fixed them with off cuts of plywood , sealed and foamed the cavity behind ( injected in after fixing the lights into place ), and then Toupret filler a-plenty. I let that all cure overnight, then sanded and painted to check for any imperfections. 👌👍😎.

Not my plasterer. Guy is a legend. Coventry based, but will travel a reasonable distance. If anyone needs a shit-hot plasterer, let me know by PM.

I do a lot of lighting design, and these are great for lighting the vaulted sections. Look on the Tornado lighting website for the full range of plaster-in flush / trim-less stuff.

I've just done the same pipe / insulation detail on my current job, and I just drill 2x 78mm core holes and put 1x through each hole. @Mr Blobby wont even have to core drill, just install the ducts as he's going. But core drilling afterwards, which is what I'd do ( so they can be pin-point accurate ) will be 1 hour or less, if you drill slowly! For me, it would be pipes and cables punched out retrospectively, and the pipes surface mounted in the plant room. IMHO, this is too short a run to be faffing about with the big Duo pipe.

You can do, if you mount the transformer elsewhere, or just cut out a pocket in the insulation for the transformer to install into. Very few fittings will either be shallow enough, or are void of a transformer tbh.

Sold by Amazon, and probably other outlets who give equally less-a-fcuk, but bought by unsuspecting victims.

Ok. There is defo a serious leak here as the system is part-draining down and is sucking air back in through the automatic air bleed vents ( they work both ways when there isn't any water inside ). Stop using the heating system immediately, as you're just constantly refilling with fresh oxygenated water which is corroding everything ferrous, hence the dirty look to the water. Get the plumber back in immediately to fix, give this to him in writing, text / email / WhatsApp and tell him either he fixes this, or you'll get someone else at his expense.

She’s got to go! No, seriously, find something else to worry about. Paint whatever you like, it is of zero consequence in actuality. All you need to do is apply a label stating “heating system - non potable service” on it and go for pink. I suspect you have many more of these suchlike items to deal with, if this is an issue, but that’s life! Or, Close the cupboard door, move on with your lives. 😉🙃😵‍💫

Do you know if this is a standard, legal practice? I would be very interested to see how they could demonstrate functioning admirably / in line with their responsibilities as a limited company with what has been written here, alone. It could stem much further afield too, and there may be many others who don’t know the scale / volume of ‘damage’ done. Will come out in the wash I suppose, but I also suppose that the company director(s) would have taken “professional” advice for repercussive mitigation.