Nickfromwales

I am en route! Never underestimate what a Swansea boy will do for free beer.

Can I have some money to go out tonight, please?

Ok, you'll just have to come inside of the ring beam steelwork, and avoid the intermediates, but a lot easier than the awkward incremental gapping's of B&B! The communications provider may well want rigid BT56 ductwork / similar, or they may refuse to pull the service in. After that I'd put cold mains into a 110mm UG soil pipe with a rest bend (unless you can get an off-cut of the blue stuff), and then all other things just in regular flexi ductwork. Electrical stuff only needs the hockey-stick if mounted externally, as most will be SWA and suitable for direct burial so need no such protection when rising through the slab, plus they're visible so no worries about 'safe zones' etc.

It was going so well...........

Yup, all looks kosher I'd look at a retro-fit hot water cylinder insulated jacket on eBay etc and wrap that buffer up to the nth degree, just a shame it couldn't be in the heated envelope somewhere. FYI, you can tee the returns into each other wherever they are easiest to do so. Top and bottom and diagonally opposite is best, but it could be piped top & bottom entry with both pipes the same side if it made things massively easier, tbh. Fills up with the rest of the system off the filling loop, yes. Remember to manually crank the zone valves to the fill / drain position (via the lever on the side of the valve) when filling or draining. For the ground floor and 1st floor rads, will these all have TRV's on each rad, and will they likely all be at least a % open whenever the heating is turned on / calling? I'd say that would be a yes. If so, I'd suggest fitting a 3-port valve, located up at the buffer, to prevent it from being heated (and wasting heat) unnecessarily eg if the 2-port zone valve for 'rads' is open ergo no short-cycling. In a nutshell, you can then choose whether the buffer is 'in play' or 'bypassed', and this is a doddle to do. You just power up the 3-port off the same wire that opens the 2-port for rads, so it 'flip-flops' between the 2 states. All you need to do is buy a 3-port diverter (NOT a 'mid-position' 3-port) and Bob & Fanny are yours for the taking Rads ZV = closed means buffer is in play, and vice versa. Should make this as energy efficient as you'll ever get it 👍. BH buffer pic.pdf Edit: wiring may be far simplified if you use 2x 2-port at the buffer, but my brains a bit fried, been a long day. Edit #2: Scratch that, the 3-port is spring return so all good to use 1x 3-port for this . Beer o'clock I think.....

Makita one jams way too many times. The guys working for me all have the DeWalt as you do. Good choice.

1) Sell the panel. 2) Purchase beer. 3) Enjoy solar thermal by sitting on a chair in the garden getting a tan. 4) see item 2.

Minus 4 teenagers, no doubt

Is it an insulated raft or B&B?

Yup, and Yup

3 shredded wheat time for you, lol. If you look at the pic I posted, I made brackets up from 25x5mm steel flat bar (drilled and tapped for the cylinder brackets to be affixed) and screwed the lot into the structure. That's going nowhere fast! Just remember to install the unions before you wall-mount it!

I bolted the Panasonic's down to a concrete plinth and used solid copper, zero issue, and I mean 0.00000. I fitted anti-freeze valves to the most recent one, and used glycol on the one before that. Why would you think these are going to split? I assume freezing conditions?

That hanger system seems to have made the job easier than with timber. Quite pleasing on the old OCD, lol.

That sucks!

Is this on an S-plan or Y-plan (2x 2-port zone valves or 1x 3-port) and does this service space heating as well as DHW? Sounds to me like a wiring or programming issue perhaps, but certainly a quirky issue. Have you tried restoring factory settings and reprogramming the controls?

Have you bought the flexis?

Don't get "the wrong end of the stick", but "suck it and see"?

I wouldn't ever design for that, as most of my clients will be in reverse with the heat pump, providing cooling The heating of bathroom floors which are tiled is far from madness, as whilst showering at 38-40oC (or more if you're a woman with asbestos instead of skin) then stepping onto a floor at 20oC will feel adversely cool / cold. Some people do not want that, some don't care, which is why I ask each of my clients how they live, what their needs, wants & wishes are, and I make their home the way they want it. There is no right or wrong, just what people want, and there's over 14,000 people on here

I assume that house was there first, and the land around it sold, but the owner of this house stayed put?

Yup. +1.

In summer this will be nuisance heat anywhere other than the bathrooms, so for "chill removal" with tiled floors outside the heating season it's electric or nowt. All components would have to be potable quality, and this would need to be like a hot return HRC arrangement? By the time you factor in slaughtering your ASHP to save a few £, it just doesn't make any sense to me at all (even when excluding the cost of the labour, equipment and downstream maintenance to facilitate this).

That's mandatory for every job I do, as I cannot risk 3rd party injury. Self-builders can burn their own toes, but I cannot FYI, nearly every single UTH controller will come with a floor probe, certainly all the Warmup stuff does. It would be daft not to install this tbh, and they supply a small conduit for the probe to be replaced retrospectively.

A 240W mat will probably give you overshoot tbh, I'd stick at 100-150W max. Nothing will melt as you need to cap the floor temp at 27oC max anyways, and if you're anywhere near 27 then you've done something VERY wrong. Electric mats don'y usually turn on/off, they usually go from one temp to another (comfort & economy / aka setback) so maybe just allow them to cool to (x)oC instead of down to frost setting? If you have PV the maths (running costs with using setback temp vs "off") won't be too uncomfortable. FF bathrooms yes, just electric. GF with slab go for both afaic, as electric mats are cheap enough to install, less controller if you insist, and then retro-fit the controls later if so necessary. Always separates the miserly from the luxury-feel folk Give me a little 'luxury' every day of the week!

I'd say pointless, if the last few I've installed are anything to go by . Quieter than a mouse whispering and zero movement / vibration etc. Piped with rigid copper too and not a flexi in sight.

TigerClaw vs Screwfix Can you post a link please?