Nickfromwales

Yup. There is a nominal gap, for hinges etc, so that's always allowed for. Plus most openings are made 10-15mm oversized to allow for shims / packers to be installed to get the frames ( linings ) in plumb, eg to compensate for wonky stud walls etc.

@Oli I would very much recommend sticking with an ICF, and as I have explained directly to another member, an EPS system will be a night & day upgrade from wood-crete. There are plenty of ICF suppliers who are kosher, so please do not tar all of them with the same brush I have offered other members some contact details for a very good ICF installer, and he can be further recommended by at least 2 other Buildhub members who's homes he has erected / is in the process of erecting. @All. If this is of interest / help to anyone, please PM me.

Exp foam sometimes makes the pipes creak. For heating pipes, I'd recommend spraying or brushing on something like a silicone lubricant onto the copper pipes first, as a release agent, and them foaming eg so the foam doesn't 'grip' the pipe(s). Likewise with the hot pipe, basically anything which expands / contracts / has a bit of movement. A chap I knew decided to retro fit exp foam to all of his uninsulated heating pipes throughout the entire first floor, and had to take it all back out a few months later due to how bad this clicking / creaking noise had become. Not so much of a problem if the foam plug is only a few inches long / deep.

I can always ask the next door neighbour to fetch it back.

Only someone who wishes to end their, or their families lives would buy that product. Should NOT exist.

Google etc will join the dots regardless. It's a public forum, and we do not control members activity outside of these 4 walls, or where they promote / discuss us / BH. We're north of 14,000 members, usual amount of spammers, and the angry ones get taken out to the paddock and shot at point blank range. We prefer loving to fighting @pocster..."NO!" Don't even THINK about it.

Yes. I am ( was ) referring to interior.

I've changed my mind. Can I have the money instead?

Ohm my god!. Nope, you just bin the lamp that comes with it, and do a bit of DIY to 'adapt' it. This way you can choose any style of lamp you like, and make it work on SELV + the flat cable. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374321783458?hash=item57275122a2:g:DRAAAOSwL~RjTQb2&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4GKMqZtL0Fz9k37ihqJERtBWxJaREthUi87GyS95H9c0wOR%2F87KOBJU99Z3oOM%2FvMD6hrrXM8gkXo%2B8CjyXVuJKJNFiaJciRUTE9RdDAB%2FILoipUlXRGeQkQYZRHxMclkm9zrfjBmK0SANOQ5yAg4Pb7EfdlHmt8IznenmC09A5%2F1pC2%2B2RvplhLhS2EiodntCSmZzj3578LYrs97TLN4DbyzV8YUYB0SkCfR7bou4fu9xQ%2Fr8etx3XOmnC4JFMhwh%2FqaCUJulevkIAwcL2N1j6dOB27XinlOY4zHG7yrtnY|tkp%3ABFBMjLip_e1h Just solder one of those onto a sacrificial ES or SES lamp base ( chop up a 230v one ), feed from a suitable transformer, and send me my kebab.

Use the construction one, as it has fibres so you can thin it out over wooden substrates without it giving up the ghost. Primer is a good idea also, to further aid in reducing friability, but don't let it dry before putting the SLC down

Which means having battens. More materials costs, labour, and less GIA.

It's been 28 minutes, and no food or alcohol has arrived? Is your internet down?

SELV (Safety Extra Low Voltage) describes a voltage that is set so low that in the event of direct touch either during proper operation or in the event of a single fault there is no danger of electric shock due to touch current. In the event of an insulation failure, adequate protection must still be provided.

I was considering a small vertical axis turbine, say 1kW, and hoping they aren't as problematic ( at that size, and that type ). More as a toy, than to provide for my needs, but it would be good to have any little trickle-charge at night.

If it's a fire door to protect the house from a fire in the garage, then any good quality lock is fine, however I would have it open with a key from the garage, and a thumb-turn from inside the house, so it can be a means of escape in a house fire. Does this need to be airtight? @Russell griffiths has posted up some options from his findings when solving the same problem. Have a search on here, lots of discussions have been had! https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/search/?q=airtight fire door&quick=1

Do as your doing. Ask questions, you're bloody well entitled to!! It's your money, and you need to be sure before you part with it. Simply explain your concerns, and let them respond accordingly. Only you can decide how you then proceed.

Just use an LED lamp or LED strip in the light fitting, and then the cables to it will be SELV, so all you'd need to do is not short them out. The cables can then be the super flat speaker cable types, job done. https://www.thomann.de/gb/sommer_cable_tribun_240.htm?glp=1 Thank me with beer and pie.

Was planning required? That's public info. Is building control even aware / on the case?

Yup, defo a choice when the circumstances allow. I prefer products like Beam-shield, where the sections tuck under the beam and contact the preceding block. So when you look at the underside, you cannot see anything other than EPS.

Indeed, well said! How we forget. Less embodied carbon, and very DIY'able too.

Just another day in the office

It's not limited to these couple Digression makes up around 39% of the content here I reckon

If you are topping up daily, you need to stop doing so. Use the immersion for hot water and find the leak. Your installer is avoiding the elephant in the room, eg where the feck is all the water going? You can start investigations by isolating one UFH loop at a time, re-pressurise, and check the pressure 24 hrs later. When you stop seeing the drop, you've found the offending loop. If you go through them all with no change, the leak is elsewhere. Can you see evidence of a leak anywhere?

Not AFAIK, as it isn't a home?! The arrangement I've recommended is basically mechanically fixed extension leads, and nothing more. Non-habitable space, storage only, so regs is moot? An electrician would just be signing off the power where it's been chopped in to, and the downstream CU to the 2x 32a sockets. That's where the electrician will get in their van and drive away, leaving behind a fully compliant installation, for extension leads to be plugged into.

Excellent electrical advice there gents FFS. 🙄