Nickfromwales

Bingo. My bad, was typing and drinking. 🍺

No, prob a ban would cut down the workload.

@Sophiae If you make any blunder posts, just 'report' it and a member of staff will pick it up ASAP

Done.

The main problem is that novice DIY'ers just don't ask the questions they need to, when they need to. I've just been detailing a window and door installation for a client and the window fitter wanted to frame-fix everything. Let's just say that he is now using the correct manufacturer-specified fixings, and they're not being fixed within 20mm of the face of the ICF core!! Client pays me to oversee / act as a sounding board for whatever he doesn't know, and we can (usually) iron out these creases whilst the job is still on paper. A quick sketch from your builder would have shown the sections and you could have then said "STOP", and then done a re-work. Steel beams deflect, and the sliders themselves will expand, so that is another important detail, but this does sound OTT, listening from afar.

Why not just stitch drill it like I do? Use a 4mm sds bit and go around the hole drilling each about 10mm apart. Go to a 5.5m and then a 7mm and a couple of taps with a hammer and 'Bob's your uncle, and Fanny's your aunt'! Start drilling now, and you'll be in the pub by 1

Yup. Those electrical items won't just pay for themselves!! Just pull the trigger and have a nice shower, you tight arse, as you can't take it with you.

Select button for spray options Prob best to ask them by email, if this is pattern & flow rate, or just pattern at a set flow rate. You can make a fast shower go slow, it's called "not turning the knob all of the way to max" . Pretty simple stuff, eh

A means to an end, is what that option is Carry on, as these are 1000% worth every ounce of your time and effort. ”If it was easy……..”

You slot them in from underneath once the hole is cut, and then you screw up through the plasterboard and into the metal tabs

Tres bien.

£70 is a good price. What were you expecting to pay when the petrol service station looking ones are a couple of those 7 tenners or more! Do you have a link to what you’ve seen? I’m spec’ing these for all my projects, the regular ones have never sat well with me, and my clients agree. Plaster in ones ( round and linear ) are just wonderful looking things by comparison. Lemonade job = a couple of tenners. Champagne job = ‘more’

Natural spring. “Peckham Spring” relaunch opportunities here I think! Either that or there is a significant leak from a water mains nearby.

Must have been a poor installer? I’ve fitted loads of Ideal logics, mostly combis, great little boilers. If you have attic space, then I’d look at putting the combi in the attic and as central as possible. Leaks come from old knackered plumbing or equipment, or poor workmanship. Don’t write off anything going up there, as it’s a neat solution we often went to, to preserve space in smaller homes.

There's a huge difference between being a sparky, and working with sparkies under their supervision. From what's on display I imagine he undertakes smaller / simpler stuff, so agree this is just probably technically beyond his comfort zone. One thing that worries me is that he's clearly out of date ( by a long long time ) with regs / legislation, so he really shouldn't be doing this for anyone at any price ( not even for free ). The circuits need pulling out of the boards, the boards need replacing with a suitable double-decker CU, and each circuit needs to be tested before being made off into the new CU. Do that, methodically and meticulously, and then you'll find any circuits which are suspect / fail insulation resistance and earth continuity etc, and then problem finding can be narrowed down quickly and economically. As a man once said "it could be worse", so continue with the glass half full and keep your chin up

Prob just best to get your mate / friend in, put the kettle on, and tell him it's time to admit defeat. If I showed this to my sparky, he would go and yank the main fuse and lend you some AA's for your torch.

No. That's the perspective of the photo. The two browns are in the MCB.

Easy tiger. How level is the floor?

Are you fitting UTH? If not, just ply.

Just an aside, but you’ll need to fit double check non return valves onto the hot and cold feeds to the fish tank if you’re back-flowing dirty tank water through pipes; which are connected to the potable water system. There’s a high risk of back-contamination of your drinking aka potable water system from doing this. The NRV’s need to be 1x hot and 1x cold, on each of the individual supply lines to the tank. Or, combine the feeds at the manifold into a TMV, and fit a s1x DOUBLE check valve on the output of the TMV.

The 1st 2 images are pipes in the concrete slab, cable tied to the steel mesh, and the 3rd image is of pipes laid on a slab which then got screeded over.

Stay with us, you'll be fine. The point being made, is the chain is as strong as the weakest link, so in that room it would be wise to investigate how well the walls and roof retain heat in the room, once the floors produced it. Take this one step at a time, and the floor is the chunky one-time-only job, so let's stay focussed on that for now. Draughtproofing can come later, internal insulation can come later, beefing up the roof could come now if it only means buying a bit more fluffy rockwool and a stinking day fitting the wretched stuff. You don't need to 'match' anything right now, just do the floor as above and then work your way up This will serve you very, very well. The ASHP is a bone of contention as it's just as large a spend if not larger than just adding a buffer tank and using the oil. You could ( if the oil boiler is NOT a combi and you have a cylinder ) swap the existing hot water cylinder to a thermal store ( buffer tank that has a coil inside which heats the hot water instantaneously ) which would utilise the same footprint. From that you could feed the UFH manifold and the radiators, and be without the short-cycling issues. ASHP, if plumbed through a wall and is a simple install, could be the least disruptive option. Without being there to survey it, it's quite tough to call it in fairness.

200mm of PIR means virtually the same value, but with 100mm less digging / removals / muck-away I'd stick with 100mm of concrete and anti-crack mesh, but it'll depend on whether you want to turn the heating on / off vs up/down (eg winter constant on)

I suggested it to them 4 1/2 years ago when I was their premier ( & only ) installer, outside of the company. I suggested a lot of other things. They didn't really listen back then. Lots went "pop" since. Hopefully that's stopped. Most recent one to go pop was Jan this year. Buy an UVC

Due to my position of responsibility........I cannot say.