Nickfromwales

Nice and neat, top job 🫡👌

In my GF bathroom I brought the pipes up in the footprint of the pedestal, so you can’t see any plumbing other than the waste pipe existing horizontally through the wall. 1, best of the worst, but defo convert to copper and clip it. 2. not whilst I’ve a hole in my you-know-where 👎👎👎 3. #1 choice, using a Hep 90 in the wall to allow copper to be on show. Behind a radiator is where those plates get used, eg where they’ll never be seen and where there is no need to fill / sand / decorate around them.

Defo have 90’s in RS, but the ones you show are also glue coated (the blue) which heats up and cures from the heat from the friction of firing the nail in. Try smacking a misfired nail in and you’ll see how well (and quickly) the glue holds! Stand down red alert, and just pop some extra 90’s in if you want to. I doubt you’ll have a moments trouble here tbf, even if simply left alone.

Unless these are in direct rain etc you really don’t need to worry. Bright nails would be the worst to have used, but that’s more because they’re not ring-shank (so they don’t grip the wood very well) vs whether they would rot out. FWIW, I used regular light galv 51’s on my feather edge and no signs of trouble to date, and they’re completely exposed to all elements. Do you have a pic of the nails used?

Do you mean how would I convert what’s ‘on display’ if the pipe is Hep and it’s that which is poking out, vs having been converted to copper? Is the Hep fixed or does it have play? Issue may be, gripping hold of the pipe to push a fitting on, but if you be Hep on display you’ll need a minimum of one Hep fitting to get you to copper. If you want / need to convert to copper that is? Pics?

Just install a flexible cable conduit over them and tape up the joint. It’ll be fine, as there’s actually very little actual movement, ask people who’ve tiled over ‘expansion points’ and not even had so much as a hairline crack. If the slab is of a reasonable thickness with anti-crack mesh etc then it’s just going nowhere, and if it’s a low energy home the slab should see big temps shifts anyways?

Yup. I use the inline McAlpine traps with 21.5mm x 32mm reducers in each end.

A good place to start the process of elimination tbh, as there’s nothing worse than changing stuff to then arrive straight back at the original fault.

You just run a 32mm pipe and they will use a reducer just as the pipe enters your boundary, which connects to their 25mm outlet, simples. The drop would occur over distance, so upgrading to 32mm pipe will alleviate those losses and preserve what dynamic flow and pressure you have at the street. If you are defo going with an accumulator then you’ll be one of the best performance dwellings on the street. Chillax, and go worry about something else, like me now driving everywhere at 20mph ffs

If you’re looking at a replacement then I’d switch to the Ivar set and lose the basic TMV. I’ve never heard or had a noisy unit tbh, and they are very reliable and super accurate. Had one fail once, and it was out of warranty, but still got replaced for free when I said it was a rare occurrence etc (which they agreed with). Sticky cartridge, but may have been just a ‘Friday unit’ as I’ve been fitting them for years without issue.

I would not be cutting into a flexi hose, why not just strap on to / tee properly into the pipe after the bath trap? https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-condensate-pipe-clamp-white/38108?kpid=38108&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Heating and Plumbing?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh7fNv4-2gQMVxt7tCh1bYQ2iEAQYASABEgIRVPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electrical-circuit-protection/circuit-breakers/xpole-rccb/eaton-xpole-residual-current-devices-type-f-brochure-br019005en-en-us.pdf

If done meticulously the thermal tenting will be dramatically reduced. The problem for us here, is, to convey to the OP just how much work and investment goes into air-tightening a retrofit. It is a huge pursuit, and then some, but the rewards are just as big.

Nope! My sincere apologies. The house was burgled last night and the only thing the bastards took was my beloved scientific calculator. "What are the odds?", I said..... Given current market value I have set the reward for its immediate and safe return at £8.99 (or £6.99 if you have a Tesco Clubcard). These take the network pressure and 'lend' it to you, for the grand sum of FOC. Peak times for you to harvest said free energy are around 3-4AM plus some sporadic pockets during the daytime, and the name for this is "stored energy", the fact you borrow it each day is what makes this a great solution. No pumps, no maintenance (other than annual check of pre-charge pressure and occasional top up), and no electrical / other consumption seen by you, the user. Happy days. A survey of your max peak pressure per 24hrs is essential, achieved by connecting a pressure gauge with a double-check NRV on it to capture the peak reading, so you can correctly size the vessel and set the correct pre-charge pressure (so it actually fills with water).

Well of course it has one. And the heli-pad? Seriously, you need to stop now OK

Needs a mention, did you have a good architect or were you heavily involved / did your own fundamental designs?

I want one. And very clever trick with the recesses for the windows.

Oh, and the house ain’t too shabby neither lol.

Very nice garage, I am quite jealous. That’s on the list for when I get a plot near to me somewhere. Currently on the hunt and hoping to find something in Wales that is very good bang for the buck and to build the forever home in the background. Been busy creating homes for others for a long time, my turn soon hopefully!

I use Illbruck 330 airtight foam, very good stuff and far more robust than you typical open cell foam. https://sealantwholesale.com/products/illbruck-fm330-pro-foam?variant=43795891683555&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_uvl38WzgQMVF4btCh3aDggcEAQYAiABEgIvuPD_BwE If you are considering MVHR then you will need to do a blower test first, because if you have natural infiltration (a crafty house) in excess of 1 ACH then MVHR will be useless unless the fan speeds are high and that means a noisy (audible) system which will have quite poor performance for heat recovery. If you’re not recovering heat, then you have just bought and installed a system that introduces cold air in the winter whilst simultaneously flushing out to the clouds all the heat you just paid to create. Think twice before installing and get an evidentiary air test done to see how ‘bad’ the house is, as it is likely to be north of 3-4 ACH or worse as is. Air leakage from around every window will be significant, as will the floors / joist sockets into the walls beneath the 1st floor floorboards, and also all dot & dabbed walls to the attic. Google thermal tenting, it’s a shocker where air gets to and how it carries your precious heated air away. Maybe book yourself in for a course or 2 at the NSBRC and go see their EnerPHit refirb house to see how airtightness can be resolved retrospectively.

Beware cheaper offerings, as they are often not suitable for potable water / aren't WRAS approved.

Bought this one for last clients job. Great product and price. https://www.anchorpumps.com/gws-challenger-300l-vertical-pressure-vessel

It’s a complete rip-out and start over, all the way to coping’s & flashings etc. Real world truth, won’t matter at all and won’t affect longevity (it’s a product designed for continuous immersion and to be able to cope with the expected temperature swings), so just an annoyance tbh. I’ve actually never seen one done, particularly parapets, where there is zero pooling eg the immaculate installation. The vernacular seems to always be to create an unwanted hump where the final membrane meets and rises over the skirt of the up-stands, further exacerbated by the outlet adding a primary, second elevation in the picture. Ergo a 6-8mm jump or more is “the norm”. I’ve always found this to be a bug-bear of mine, but this has been on jobs where I’ve not project managed the whole build, but on my current project where I am the PM, this will 1000% not be accepted on new works. Self-builders don’t know all the places where things go tits up, and unfortunately find out after the horse (and their budget for that element) have bolted. I however, as a PM, will be directly responsible for these things having been identified, included in tenders to prospective roofing contractors, a method statement surrendered, and the consequences of it not being delivered would be known to said contractor before they’ve even turned up on site. You cannot just get experience, it’s taken me 3 decades to now be managing exclusive, one-off private builds, and even now I still rely massively on a fantastic team under me (with overarching knowledge and expertise in their respective fields) to be confident to put myself forward for these larger projects. In actuality, the roofing company should have said to you that they could go the extra mile, explain the cost (labour mostly) uplift to get it “spot on”, and allow you to make an informed decision. Unfortunately they just fear losing the job to the next guy who will just shut their mouth, do what they did yesterday, and the day before, and move on to the next unsuspecting client (to churn out the same crap over & over again, unchallenged). You would be entitled to ask for this to be rectified, it’s up to you. Has your warranty company signed off on this? I'm on one in Leicester, where the quintessential “Cowboy Builder” was employed, and there is pooling on the balcony. As there will be synthetic decking on chairs atop the membrane the warranty company have said it’s ok. Maybe they should have kicked off? Honest answer is, it’ll make no big difference and once it’s ‘invisible’ life will simply go on. As I am now PM on that project (after having said scrotum-faced builder ejected) I will make the last 2 planks of the decking removable for an annual scrub out / routine maintenance etc, as there are trees and a lot of ‘nature litter’ that gets on there too, however natural draining of the rainwater would not be enough to make those outlets maintenance free. Is it worth thousands in upheaval? Nope. Did the warranty company accept it as a deviation? Yup. That’s been received from them in black & white as I asked for it after they inspected. Note, they never asked to see a hose on it / other demonstration of functionality either…..🤷‍♂️

Nope. How I describe it is the only method, I know of, that is permissible for "retro-fit" G3, which is what your 'above' requires. Defo nope, "all hail the ale" 🍻

Top of the class Rodney. Now go fetch me an apple 👉