Nickfromwales

English.....such a beautiful language

Your monies all tied up in a "unique" hybrid battery system.

Did you ask if it was freepost? Just watch a few episodes of Grand Designs and you'll feel much happier. They all go six-figures over budget and take out mortgages in their grand-kids' names as that's how long it'll take to cover their ludicrous spending habits. And then watch them "boo-hoo" about it for 30 mins. My favourite was the cleaner who said smugly at the beginning "I don't have a budget". 30 mins later he's trying to work out where to borrow another £1/4m from. What a p*nis.

@Thorfun Have you bought those bit yet, Capt.Tight-arse?

Look, you're new here, so I won't shout You need way more than 100mm of insulation. That's not going to cut it. You need a minimum of 140mm to be anywhere near "energy efficient". To clarify, British Building Regs is the worst standard to build to without getting a bollocking off the BCO. That is NOT what you should aim for. Dig out a bit more, maybe see if you can get away with less type1, whatever. But the maths are; FFL of (x) thickness less 100mm concrete c/w mesh & UFH pipes less 140mm of PIR rigid insulation less (x) depth below that to get to a suitable substrate to start the process. That lot added up is what you need to get down to. 😎

The offer will still stand 3000% APR, variable

The "top" is usually a separate item which you cut to length, and the trap / gulley sits where it needs to go.

Can you make it up with a couple of 15° and 30° single socket bends instead of that adjustable 135? They’re not the best things in the world, especially when so close to the surface, as the knuckles are huge.

Give me your PayPal details, I’ll give you the money. Ffs 🤦‍♂️

Yes, it can substitute, if fully bedded into flexible tile adhesive and screwed at the edges etc, but I would still ply it. Nothing worse than fitting out the entire room to then slowly see cracks in grout and then tiles coming loose. Major works to put that right retrospectively.

A basement gets considerably more complex when you can walk out of it, but into a pit with stairs. These require sumps and pumping sets, and if they fail, then the basement floods. Why not go for a well thought out and as naturally lit as possible internal stairwell, and save yourself a bunch of grief, cost, and liability? Do you really need that pit / stairwell that badly? There's no way I do that if / when I get the chance to build, and I will defo look at a basement with all my might, but not one which turns out to be a PITA and a huge risk. 4 sides round and waterproof will be the order of the day.

May the 4th be with you....

Remove the sticker ( POWER OFF AT ALL TIMES!! ) and turn the immersion down from 5 to 4. Test after 24 hrs to see where it settles. Re-adjust as necessary each 24hrs until you're happy.

Or plant rooms....

During a kitchen / diner knock-through refurb, the customer asked me, "What do you think of the tiles Nick?". I said "If you like them, what the feck has it got to do with me?". It's your house, and your design, done the way you like it, and you're the one paying for it. Pointless asking what people 'think', I'd just say to ask 'the massive' here for constructive criticism; so you get feedback to hopefully illuminate any non-obvious faux-pas. Good choice with the Nudura, how far are you going with the upgrade to the rest of the original build fabric though?

1HRFR ( 1 hour fire rated y'all! ). Would indeed need to be made up of non-combustibles, but B-Regs will dictate / mandate this when you apply, and at that point you will know your possible choices for materials / finishes etc. 8' sounds a perfect size to shoe-horn this in, crack on!

Hi. First impression is "nice!" The 2 roofs need to be at the same height, as when stood on the terrace you'll be nose height with the lower 'blade'. I think that would be a regret. Juliet balcony ( even if it is faux ) opposite end to the main balcony, as they appear to be openable double doors(?), and see if @nod likes it then . On that rear, bare, wall section, consider a living trellis where the stainless wires are held off the wall by 200mm, and trim & maintain it / choose the plants to be minimal. Garage roof is a bone of contention, as it's a second home to more PV. I'd prefer PV vs looks there tbh. Glazed facade is to the East, so solar gain should be less of an issue vs that lot facing South, but I would have a room-by-room PHPP analysis done to be 100% sure that the upper sections wouldn't benefit from some solar reflective coatings, but I think the 2x corner windows would defo benefit from it. I'd rather be looking to put a tiny bit of heat in vs having to get rid of it peak summertime. Other than that I quite like it, and will be very jealous of you. "Continue!".

I'd review the floor construction methodology, and do as a lot here have done, including what I do for my clients. Forget the screed, put the insulation down low on the ground, and then have a constructional, heated slab with steel mesh reinforcement for anti-cracking. The ufh pipes get cable-tied to the steel, and then the concrete pour is your finished interior floor ( less final coverings ). A small, cheap ASHP on this would be very cheap to run. Coming off oil will have its challenges also, as the oil boiler could never see just the UFH independently or it'll "poop the bed". At the minimum, you'd need to install something like a 150L - 200L buffer tank to accept the huge amount of heat the oil boiler will produce before it realises it's not even needed. If you run the UFH and radiators simultaneously, then you may JUST get away with it, but maybe not even then. Oil boilers like to light, burn at 100% ( or 0%, nothing in-between with oil btw ), and burn for as long as is possible, and this is because they do not modulate. This means that it would produced huge amounts of heat, the UFH would be taking 5-10% of that at most, and then the boiler would cycle on/off repeatedly ( referred to as "short-cycling" ) which would eventually ruin the boiler. A decent 5kW ASHP is around £2.5k FYI, or less if you go for a lesser-known brand. Rethink the floor, because, as stated, it shouldn't be heated with that poor a level of insulation, sorry! For your stated floor detail, you should be having rads on the walls instead.

400 is mandatory for bathrooms. Floors should have the same minimum standard. 600 o/c is crap for a floor, unless the joists are oversized.

The suppliers design with a too-fine element of bean-counting. I guarantee you that the floors / spans / deflection they allow when trying to win business is NOT what they'd specify for their own houses! Every job ( new build ) that I've worked in that had joists "to spec" @600mm were bouncy. One member on here had his done "to spec" and when he walked through the bedroom the fitted wardrobe doors moved / bumped into each other. Nope. Standard designs / calcs for these are carp, just like British Building Regs....."What's the crappiest thing we can churn out legally?"

🤣

Just send the invoice through, and I'll pass it on to management

IIRC the wool plus over-joist ( wall ) detail MBC quote is better performing than the beefier cellulose filled 300mm PH offering. Defo go wool inbetween and full sheets of rigid over joists, and then membrane / service battens / plasterboard. NEVER would I install floor posi's at 600mm o/c. Like a chuffing trampoline.

Yes boss.....

Can you copy this into the other thread? Most will know your back-story then, Capt. Randomthread!