Adrock

BCO have asked for it, including the basement the house will end up being four storey by the end of the project.

I'm in the process of encasing structural steels within my basement with fire board. How do I continue the fire protection where the steel has a timber bolted into it? Hopefully the picture below helps to illustrate what I'm asking. I'm thinking infill those sections between the joists with pink board and then more pink board to the end of the joists hanging below the steel. Thoughts?

Thank you very much everyone. @SimonD you've given me an insight into what it takes to design heating and dhw pipework. I should have probably expected that considering my day job is similar, just on the electrical (better 😁) side of the game. So, my take away from this recent discussion is 22mm copper is sufficient for the actual load of the building. I just need to work out the index circuit and see how those figures all sit together. If the pressure drop is too high a bigger pipe would reduce that but the velocity would still be low, right?

Using heatpunk to design my house in it's finished state, just under 4kW is the heat loss of the building when it's complete. As for heat pump location, at the moment I'm not sure as that part hasn't been designed yet. I suspect the primary pipework from the heat pump to the basement will be around 18-20m to get to the basement and then an additional 8-9m in the basement to get to the manifold. The ground floor manifold will be teed off within the first couple of meters within the basement.

Most of the talk in this forum has been about single pipe runs to each appliance and now you're telling me instant hot water needs a different method 🤯 Plumbing definitely isn't more forte. So, if I have manifolds everywhere to I put 15mm pipes from those to each appliance and the ones where I want instant hot water I run a 10mm return to the cylinder? I really need to start drawing out where I'll be putting all this stuff.

A small update. I'm onto connecting this underfloor heating install onto my existing boiler but with a view to an ASHP in the future, once the rest of the house is sufficiently thermally performant. I've done some watching of videos and very dodgy calculations, it appears 28mm copper or 32mm MLCP for the flow and return. This will pipework will also likely end up feeding the manifold for the ground floor, eventually. Any thoughts? Have I asked in the right part of the forum?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but it's a very quick question, I've seen HRC mentioned a fair few times but have no idea what the abbreviation means. Can someone enlighten me?

If you're using ICF and they're insisting on type C protection then shouldn't it be the detail below (if you're using delta) https://www.deltamembranes.com/technical/technical-drawings-icf-construction/ That shows the recess in the slab as you've mentioned, I did something similar in my own slab but the formwork was built off the underpinning as mine is a refurb. Not sure how easy that would be in a raft slab. To achieve type B protection would waterproof concrete not be an option? No idea how much that costs though, from what I've read you end up having a rep from the supplier overseeing all placements. I would suspect ICF lends itself well to type B considering there won't be many, if any, day joints in the concrete.

I have two windows and a french door arriving on Tuesday. One of them is being installed in the existing part of the house, which is of solid construction. My, long term, plan is to install external wall insulation and this window will be part of that. This is more of check thread, considering I've already installed the timber! I've screwed treated 4" x 2" to the exterior and the window will be installed flush with the timber. Eventually the insulation will be installed over the top of the wood and window, I imagine it'll be notched at that point. Have I done anything stupid?

Good stuff?

I've used a fair bit of OB1, which as far as I'm aware is a copy of CT1. Anyone ever used CT1 power grab and bond? @Nickfromwales where do you get the illbruck foam? I could do with a bit of that.

I'd probably look at getting the big transformer you linked to if the site is going to be that heavy. It's also useful for rigging up 110v lights and such, which can be left plugged in permanently. But there again I'm not really into domestic building yet, my 20 years so far have been in healthcare and bigger building sites (electrician and then project/contract managing). Increasingly, in my experience anyway, 110v tools are not widely used apart from those that require a bit more oomph and even then they're being replaced by battery alternatives. Maybe provide 230v socket outlets and let the trades provide their own small transformers. Is site lighting your responsibility? That was a bit waffley.

What rig are you using? Diamond drilling rigs probably don't get anywhere near 2000W. 13A at 230V is a LOT of power to be using continuously, you'll struggle to do that with one or even two tools on the go.

And? I assume that's because they don't expect you to fully utilise the full rating of the transformer. You linked to a 3.3 and 5kva plug in transformer. 5kva at 230v gives you well over the rating of the plug top fuse, over 20A. I've also experienced them tripping 16A type C MCBs upon plugging them in over the years. Anyhow, I'm being pedantic. Apologies. For the OP, you're right, stick a few metal clad sockets on a 32A RCBO and away you go.

Power triangle gives the following 110V x 32A = 3520W 3520W/230V = 15.3A I've had those blow fuses quite regularly in the past, it'd need to be a decent draw go get that far though so I'll admit in most cases you won't have any issues because you'll never be at capacity. The 32A plug rating is just that, what the plug is rated at, but you'd not be able to utilise its full rating let alone both the 16A and 32A at the same time with any kind of decent load without blowing the plug top fuse.