Nickfromwales

As long as you can show its high temp rated plastic, you can avoid copper. Most modern plastics are suitable, but you need to confirm. 35 & 42mm copper pipe and fittings are hideously expensive.

It’ll likely be prone to cracking. I’d dot & dab it tbh, same then with the reveals, but I’d use insulated boards or Marmox insulated backer boards there, as you may not have much thickness available for insulated PB.

110mm for all the runs through the posi-joists, and if possible run that all the way to the plant room. If that's too big for the final vertical rinse, reduce to 50mm as late as you can. The 3m drop means you’ll need an AAV in the room, a min of 600mm higher than the highest wet entry into the pipe run. Does this drop down near a bedroom?

Last book I read said short intrusions are permissible, but that was when I was revising for my 18th, pre-covid, so that’s only a vague recollection.

Great words, but probably your last ones............. If we don't hear from you ever again, it's been emotional. Social media is mostly folk living a plastic life, presented by liars or paid influencers who consume gullible folk to perpetuate their 'success'. Or 'tossers' as I call them.

Yay! Now I can say I hate the pentagon shaped pile-o-shart. Looking waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better, praise the fictional person in the sky.

First thing I do is set out with a laser, and advise the client if a few coats of SLC would be preferable. Some say yes, get it level not just flat, others just say "do your best".................... Done a good few with polished porcelain, and I get those like a mirror, but that takes prob twice the time / effort / cost if they want the 'front page of the magazine kitchen'.

Trying to airtight single cables is a PITA, plus the conduit acts as an insulator giving the cable some separation from the insulation. I would not consider this optional, more of a must! Derating for 400mm is OTT btw, but not much cost to go from 4mm to 6mm so may as well, just a non-issue afaic.

I assume he’s running them them in 25mm flexi conduit, not directly sat in the Warmcell? FYI, we’ve done this on every MBC build, conduit and cables through the cellulose, so zero issue to worry about other than weather and airtight sealing.

Get rid of the pointless, expensive, detrimental plastic eggbox...........

I'll put you in touch with @Russell griffiths, he has a Howitzer you can borrow.

Galvanising is usually only requisite when bridging the cavity or the toe of the metal is exposed to atmosphere, like a Catnic lintel is. OTT if it’s an internal beam on the inner leaf. Red oxide is plenty, so slap a load on with a 4” fluffy roller if it’ll make you sleep better 😉.

Wash it into a very weak solution with a lot of fresh water, and then dump it onto waste area (side of footings / unfinished hard standing etc) and it'll just dry out and turn to dust.

Respectfully….. I think we need to focus on when the Buildhub massive can attend for house-warming drinks. I’ll man the BBQ, so one less thing for you to worry about I’m all about giving.

C@@@s

That looks like dogshit. Flashing should be up behind the wood cladding, so that needed cutting back, lifting away, and the lead offered up behind it. Woodwork and ridge tile etc is abysmal. Shocking how anyone can say they can do a job like this for someone, when they clearly have zero clue what to do or how to do. 2/10 at best, more like a 1/10 though.

Uncomplicated, small buildings should be dropped in one continuous sitting. Start on a Monday not a Thursday, and avoid the weekend so nothing is left unsafe. Have a plan and 1 person in charge, not a family day of chipping bricks, to reduce the risk of anyone unaccounted being somewhere they shouldn’t be, when things fall unexpectedly. Obvs absolutely ZERO children or pets on site, and fence off access whilst the works go on.

Not an issue tbh. I taped and foamed these to within an inch of their lives. Airtightness score was 0.1ACH on test, so a safe 0.2ACH which I will take allllllll day long. It’s not what you have to tape, it’s who you’ve got, or knowledge and methodology if DIY’ing.

It was already on site, residual from the works, but you’re OK to be sceptical as it keeps everyone on their toes. In the real world, we both know that tiny section of 150mm thick RC35 SCC would actually be fine for the next 100 years without any further attention. . It’s over-engineered for a domestic slab anyways, with just a (non structural) stud partition to keep it company there. Twill be fine wee laddy 😉🙂

I allocated MVHR to one 'dry' plant area, and then the client agreed the GF cloak WC didn't need a(nother) shower in it, so we lopped off the end of that room and created a new 'wet plant' area. Both rooms A1 fire protected via the use of cement boards (No More Ply). It is 'wet' because I have put all the "plumbing" paraphernalia in there that is likely to leak (minor or major), by early design. The UFH manifolds are just outside the footprint of this bunded area, but that's the least of 'our' worries; the heating system will only ever leak / puke out the stored volume from being pressurised at 1.5bar, and then it'll stop, maybe a few litres or so max. Odd statement, as you don't have a choice other than to discharge D1>D2>waste (unless you go old school gravity); note you'd still need overflows from the F&E and CWS tanks if so, so are just pushing the problem left to right vs deleting it. Make sure you have a 40mm waste provisioned in this space, even if in abeyance / ends up redundant. I always get this done way ahead of the construction phase, just simplifies things long-term and removes ambiguity for follow on trades if the heavy lifting is done well ahead of their (or my) arrival. Opportunities for value-engineering often go to the wall if these things are engineered 'on the fly', and usually this means compromise / delay / uplift in cost.

MBC guys tidied all that up the following morning, and inspected before the pour . My bollocks are both accounted for

Nope, sorry. Looks a decent enough unit from the pics, but that price is just taking the absolute piss. 8mm glass is one up from a 6mm eBay jobby; for that money I’d expected to see that as a minimum but I’d also want to go and see it in a showroom before buying. You soon get a feel for quality, but hard to justify that price from a grainy pic (you also don’t know if the image is exactly the unit you’ll get. Why the pain of the pentagon? Just the heart wants one I guess.

It’s defo a bird. Magpies have eaten the rubber ring around my boiler flue, one beak-full at a time.

That’s not the healthiest option unless windows are opened?

I would have gone for asking forgiveness vs permission, if DIY’ing.