Nickfromwales

Just time the heating to do an hour on then 2 hrs off, then repeat.

Walls first for any plant areas afaic. Doing this atm for the MVHR plant room: Rear wall was caulked with intumescent caulk and painted before fitting the units, all A1 fire rated, and the rest is getting caulked and painted ad I go. On this job I had to install the full wet plumbing early so the ASHP & UVC could go in early, so I painted a panel of PB and drilled it, then mounted it and then boarded the rest of the room. Painted it because of OCD and the fact it’s near impossible to paint around these things after the fact. I plastered it the week after and then the full install of the UVC etc went ahead.

I’d have asked the cheeky twat for his official complaints procedure. And then asked him to officially respond as to how a neighbour could bully him into trying to push this condition retrospectively.

Fakro are bell-ends too, as their reed switches are on flying leads, 4 tiny wires…….which are ALL feckin WHITE. Cheers you muppets!

Too small a diameter for b regs to moan about fire breach. And don’t fold them, turn them in a loop to not damage the cores!

https://www.underfloorheating-uk.co.uk/ultra-proprimer-multi-surface-primer-5l?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17338911325&gbraid=0AAAAAoLvRhE8xAMg9zKPv4sDYKebcUBvm&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn8i2xMT4lAMV9pFQBh1_tiSiEAQYAyABEgJ7pvD_BwE

Ya 👍

Quite ‘faffy’? It’s a brush….. Or go buy battens, and plasterboard, and cut them, and make mess, and shape that lot to fit the space. Faffy?????? 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

How much closer??

Automatic fire suppression systems aren’t ridiculously expensive (mist vs sprinklers) so if I had a building like this for storing / working on vehicles or storing significant amounts of ‘stuff that goes up real good’, then I’d fit a mist system. For all of my domestic clients projects I specify a 3-core cable from the house smoke detection system to both attached AND detached garages, so anything not smouldering / smoking / on fire is immediately obvious to the occupants, eg it is flagged as early on as is possible. Fitting a (wireless) ‘locate’ button in at least one strategic position within the house is also something that I spec (recommend), so basically upon hearing the smoke alarms all going off, every one of them in unison, where you’re possibly awaken, startled and worried, you simply hit the locate button; this action will silence every smoke detector except the one(s) that was triggered, meaning you can then make a bee line for the problem area to tackle the cause. If the house falls entirely silent, that’s your prompt to get your arse out the door, el pronto, to the detached garage / outbuilding where you’ll then hear that one wailing. Most modern homes now have plant rooms, attic plant areas, detached garages and out buildings, so it’s far simpler to have this ‘locate’ facility imo, so you can find the issue in seconds vs running to every room / space that (you can remember) has one. I recommend installing one inside a kitchen cupboard unit too, as with large homes with vaulted ceilings, if you burn the toast, you then don’t have to climb on stuff to press the ‘hush’ button on the detector (giving a 7 minute mute) as these wireless units also allow you to hush and test.

If a fire is about to flame-grill you, you’d be out the window like a 21 year old. I have advised exactly this for one of my current clients, eg that they stash drop down ladders in each of the FF bedroom fitted wardrobes, the type that hook onto the window frame and unroll to give a ‘rope ladder’. For £55, there’s no reason not to have at least one of these on the FF. I’ll take that over a pair of broken legs all day long.

This is such a no brainer! @Kevan Marshall, move it over 400mm and save all this feckin about!!!! 🤷‍♂️ Iirc, the 1000mm rule would be the absolute dimensions, so remember to allow for overhangs / gutters and downpipes etc.

Mid sections of pipe runs not haunched? To prevent deflection. Foreign objects like a 1/3 of a patio slab or a house brick, visible when migrating the spoil and back-filling.

Have you haunched with a sand & cement mix, to set the pipes in situ? After that you should have 100mm of pea shingle under and 100mm over, and only pick out any obvious foreign objects.

You can’t bring them to the frame. You’d normally put a slot ACO drain in and then lay up to that, so a linear slot drain deals with rainwater runoff from the doors. You’d need to add an ACO (if you aren't on very permeable ground) and that sits at the end of the sill. Then pavers get laid to that.

Apply a good few coats of primer / water solution on to it a few days before tiling, to ‘size’ the surface and reduce it’s porosity. Mix up some 75% water 25% primer and give it a good few lashings, a couple of hours apart, and you’ll soon see the board becoming saturated. Apply some neat a day or two before tiling, and then tile on to freshly applied wet, neat primer.

@craig?

Indeed. Don’t ever change! If we couldn't bicker over these things the forum would be a whole lot duller .

Principles, not labour, squire.

This is best, if you don't want to lose GIA with insulated stud walls. Dab the boards on and apply the dab to the boards. Poke a hole through the centre of each dab before applying to the wall, as markers, and when the dab is dry you drill back through and mechanically fix with corrosion-resistant fixings and washers. Foam at the footer, header, and sides. Leave a 3-5mm gap between the boards to inject foam in the gaps as dab must NOT be allowed to come through these gaps. That would bridge both cold and moisture, in the worst case.

This is pretty crap advice? I've done a LOT of insurance work over the 30+ years of me doing 'this kinda thing' and tanking would have saved so many homes from very significant, long term erosive water damage; all caused by leaking tiles / grout / sealant / shifted baths and shower trays etc etc. Tank the FECK out of it and you'll never look back.

Blurry junk, sorry! Can you post a link or 'improve upon this meagre offering'? lol.

There's too much variation in 'interpretations' from various BCO's, as the last one made me put rodding access internally to tick his boxes. The IC is simply rotated so you use the lower invert throughput, angle on the input and same on the output, and defo not come in on an angle from one of the higher branches. Then, then IC is simply a straight piece of pipe. Zero blockages, zero issue, done it enough times to know it works perfectly well. Agree than another downstream IC within a couple of metres max will be plenty good enough for clearing blockages, but a blockage isn't going to happen if the job's done well (robustly) by a conscientious installer.

Fitted a good few of them. Nice bits of kit.

Based on what? That will work perfectly well, will not block, and is the normal way to do this. If you adjust as above then the BCO will demand that you provide a rodding access point to service the change in direction. Not a good idea at all, and it’s the side of the house so who cares about the extra IC? Stop micromanaging, and stop worrying, leave as is and get the house built!