Nickfromwales

Again you point blank refuse to listen to a word I am saying. You just described my house. Single brick uninsulated 2 storey extension that equalises with outdoor temp withing a few hours, on a hill with a stream running through the centre of the property, where after a week of zero rain it's still a full flowing thoroughfare. Single glazed windows in wooden frames for the two windows, but I have put new uPVC 2G everywhere else. 4 fire places with chimney stacks ventilated to the skys, etc. Absorb this information. Accept it. These are facts, not the fiction you keep throwing in my face. So. AGAIN, you are trying to tell me what my house is made of. Stop doing so, it's quite insulting. I have CLEARLY stated uninsulated, floors, walls, roof etc. So you are wrong. As far as my background, it's enough to allow me to execute a 100% refurb and extend, one day, when I'm not busy working my ass off 24/7/365 to provide for 6 people on one income. This is a turd that remains unpolished as tiny improvements are a waste of time (which I don't have) and money (which will be preserved for later when doing this properly). So my choice is to pay a bit more over winter, to heat this turd, but heat it I do. As soon as a bit of sun comes out the bill starts dropping, because the stone walls are actually on a par with a PH fabric as they are nearly half a metre thick. The only "period" I am going to be on, is a sabbatical from this thread, as your level of disrespect is quickly becoming immeasurable. Stop telling me something that you are guessing, and getting wrong, repeatedly.

Don't forget to have 5 pints of Stella first.

One way the cutter tries to open, the other it wants to bite down. You need the latter. Practice on a piece of 22mm pipe then cut the fitting.

You don't take it to showers and baths etc, as these are single, high volume, constant flow (at high flow rate) outlets; the time taken to get hot water out of a shower turned on full wallop is very little. Compare this to a small mixer tap on a wash basin, where high frequency, small volumes (at much lower flow rate) of water are used. The wait to get premium hot water from these is significantly more problematic (most wash their hands and rinse off just as the hot water finally arrives and then turn the tap off with a line loaded with nice hot water that you never actually got to use). In a well insulated house, the delta will always be closer, from ambient to pipe, so losses are actually lessened if there are no cold attics or voids under floors where pipework must live. Add to the mix an airtight house with MVHR, and the fact that all the pipes are within the heated and airtight envelope, and then you're going to end up recycling that latent heat back through the heat exchanger of the MVHR unit. I think this is less of a concern than most first think. Factor in the dead legs and excess water drawn off repeatedly, through the water meter, and then if you have solar and a heat pump, then annual energy costs would rise quite minimally (if at all if you are a net exporter). It's a lot of comfort for not much running cost TBH, and once to get used to that instantaneous hot water at certain strategic outlets, (kitchen sink and wash hand basins), you'll soon decide the tiny sacrifice is well worth it. Add to that the fact that I always fit a secondary TMV to the HRC so water no hotter than 48oC arrives at wash basins, and then there's no need to be faffing about trying to get the temp right so you can wash your hands. Just flick the tap to the hot position, and open it each time, and you get the same temp each time, near zero wait, near zero wasted water. HRC pipework is defo a candidate for being as well insulated as is possible, of course, so when plumbing a whole house for a client I take a 15mm DHW flow and a 10mm HRC return to each preselected outlet, and wrap the 2 pipes together in a single piece of pipe insulation, parting them just before the start and end of the run. A piece of 25mm wall x 22mm ID insulation works a charm here, so on a full new build I'll open up a 100m coil of 15mm and same for 10mm and tape the ends together and fasten them to a far wall. Then I'll start to work my way back down the length, for 20-30m or so, then I'll feed that umbilical through the posis and cut and repeat until the HRC runs are complete. The clipping is done around the insulation, not to the pipes, so a bit of all-round patent band ticks the box here. The 15mm and the 10mm can be joined at the basins, terminating immediately before the final 90o bend that feeds the tap, eg so there's near zero dead leg of ambient water to discharge ahead of getting premium temp DHW out. At this point you pretty much open the tap and take your hand off it, and the hot water's flowing by the time you've placed your hands under the tap. I use a Hep2o 15x15x10mm (centre reduced) tee, with a 10mm spigot bend in the centre, so the 15mm hot and 10mm are parallel entering the tee. The remaining 15mm outlet of the 15x15x10mm tee is the pipe that then feeds the hot of the tap.

Yes, where the red arrow is. Use the pushfit pipe cutter, slight rotation as you cut.

Will the absorption of all these natural energies not have some eventual knock-on effect?

A PITA, but if the glass IS actually etched, then maybe try mopping it with some G3 or G10 compound LINK as this is what I used to polish with cars back in the day when I worked for a high-end car sales as a detailer (when I had more hair and less creaky joints).

Why do you keep disrespecting people on here with this statement??????????????????????????????????????????????? Absolute and complete fecking garbage of a statement. Just untrue, non-factual, and is now wearing people down. Stop regurgitating this nonsense as it's utterly defeatist and backed up with zero facts; by your own admission here you've not once actually heated this house, so YOU DO NOT KNOW. End of. I LIVE IN THE EXACT SAME HOUSE AS YOU DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You don't own the only shit house in the UK OK!!!!! Get over it!!!!! Read that 500 times, then go away, read it another 500 times, and then LISTEN ffs. Before replying, read it all over again. And then one more time. If you can't listen, and you refuse to accept these facts (not fiction or conjecture) and continue to refuse to accept said FACTS, then you are simply beyond help (and believe me, we've been trying). 10oC is 5oC warmer than a fridge you can keep meat in. Having the house at this stupidly low temp at night is just ridiculous. Have a think if you actually came here for advice and help, or just for sympathy, as I am at the end of my tether with you ignoring what I have written, and all of what the multiples of others have written (in their spare time, for free, with only the very best of intentions). You are a horse we are trying to lead to water..............

Yes. They're called M&E consultants. These will take everything into account, and look at your heating demands holistically, including fabric and ventilation heat loss, heating emitter types, insulation and fabric standards, airtightness, oh...........and the other X factor........the good folk who actually have to live in it comfortably, afterwards .

To which you replied “go feck yourself”?

As long as none of the new boards touch the cold structure, or are in immediate contact with the cold corner of the ceiling, then you'll be fine. Boand and screw 12,5mm or 15mm Marmox to the ceiling first, over boarding the existing PB so the dust and shit up the attic stays up there, and you can skim directly over that when the boarding is all done and you're ready for a spread. Butt the new insulated PB to the Marmox, then you are warm / warm and will have zero issues.

Sorry to disagree, but you know I will..... They do not need an AAV when the drop is <1300mm, some BCO's have stated <1100mm, but tbh most inverts for GF WC's is way less than this. Some are pretty much down and then straight out horizontally, so in all above instances these get an air-break soon enough for no such vacuum to be created. Ironically, I have more trouble persuading architects who are long in the tooth, vs BCO's, that this is completely fine and functions perfectly correctly. The dreaded vacuum is mostly an issue when the pellet of water etc is dropping a full 1 storey (2.4m or more) and gets up to speed, spreading out and filling the pipe as it falls. Then you defo need an AAV, but that's for falls from 1st and 2nd floors etc, only. Even if the WC is discharging immediately downwards it's fine, but if you have even a slight turn to the left or right, giving a small section of horizontal pipe before it drops the <1300mm, then the issue is basically zero. The horizontal pipe creates an instant air break, and the (perceived, possible) problem instantly gets a cure. BCO's have argued, then come to terms, and then they finally agree; some have then asked to see the WC functioning, before sign-off, but concede when they see it working flawlessly. Most just give up at the 1st challenge, where I say "it doesn't need one mate". Saves horrible boxing-in in the corners of the rooms with the requisite access panel etc.

An SVP is exactly what it says, Soil Vent Pipe, so needs to go to atmosphere; either through the roof, or on an external façade finishing up higher than any openings etc. STP's are not part of the network, so you have no obligation to vent the main sewer gasses, as per a network connection. You just need reliable and functional. Do you have somewhere to vent the STP in the landscape (can be just a short stub above ground if far enough away to not cause nuisance) or rising up behind a shed or outbuilding etc. Methane is lighter than air, so will follow that principal. Static gasses should be prevented from building up, so if there is an SVP then even a minimal convection airflow will carry this gas up and out to atmosphere, nothing to do with the path of least resistance as none of the branches going into the house will have throughput of airflow, as you say they will all be capped off with an AAV. If you want an SVP to function as a vent, then a suitable location needs to be decided. Ground floor WC's do not (typically) need an AAV or a vent etc. Ok over short distances, yes.

Is it just the look of outside where it meets render etc or are you still working out depth of reveal > length of sills? Been on this for quite some time on both recent projects, both Norrsken, and yes it’s not something you can flick through in an afternoon. It’s what I do day to day tbh, got the empty boxes of headache tablets to show for it, plus all the other finite detailing that often gets left out (that stuff all too often ends up in the rear view mirror). So many things need this kind of micro-detailing, for a full house build, so lots of folk just dump this in my lap and say “can you sort this?” Joy.

To add, I was suggesting Zoot left the hard wiring alone, and added a 3rd party programmable wireless room stat that he could take around with him, as he’s the sole occupant.

Most yes, but what madness is it, if the nerve-centre is located indoors that the terminal to connect an indoor stat is in the unit that’s outside? Bonkers world of ASHP’s. I should have said all manufacturers I guess, so let’s add that contingent here.

Las few we've done have been the full (solid) threshold, ordered with sufficient length for external finishes. I'm often gone when the slide on sills go on as people are sometimes rendering long after I've done all the M&E / helped with window and door install etc. Norrsken should have some stock images, or ones from finished projects that they could share perhaps.

This of any help? Can only find stock images of sills / outside.

The brown envelope culture has been, is, and will continue to, rule the world. Personal greed is insatiable, ignorance is bliss (when they open the brown envelope and all is good....) and then these rats sleep incredibly well; the government just look the other way "b'cos they get paid" regardless.

I think you can stand down red alert fella, sounds like a great spec!!! My comments are relating to the OP.

You can vent an STP in the landscape or at an outbuilding. Gasses would travel to the end of the run and up / out the SVP at the far end of the run. You're panicking too much about that . A better drawing showing where the pipes rise inside the house would help, stating exactly what is connected and if they rise to 1st floor or not. AAV's are not require on the ground floor unless the invert is at 1300mm or more btw, and a lot of BCO's are unfamiliar with that allowance.

I direct bury the ones for UTH in bathrooms, but as they're so cheap I just put A - (in use) and B - (spare) each time. I just prefer the nub on the end to be wrapped in tile adhesive or SLC for the most accurate reading possible. The last job where I was asked to do this, we just used offcuts of 16mm ufh pipe and made long sweeping bends. The probes then got taped to piano wire and pushed into the depths; if these fail, you just pulled out the piano wire, re-attach, and poke the wee beastie back in.

Technically you're inside the insulated envelope here, but ill-fitting PIR and airflow at the window frame makes me default to getting any last whiff of cold and condensation risk dealt with once and for all. A sheet of 6mm or 10mm Marmox with regular PB bonded to it would lift the cost by a couple of £10's per reveal, so it's not a bank-buster.

I’d do the ceiling too.

Yes, I hacked off as the plaster and mortar was damp, plus they didn't want to lose an ounce of space. You defo do not want voids and layers, so do this meticulously or not at all.