Nickfromwales

Block the outlet(s) and fill it all with water.

Yup, if you want the install certified. A lot of people look the other way here tbh. MCS is largely about safety, fixing types, and (in a nutshell) not having solar PV arrays all around the UK flying off in a storm and killing anyone. Stainless fixings only, into timber for the S hooks etc. If this was left ungoverned you’d have people zip tying them to slate hooks…..

More like observed and pacified.

A lot of conflict between ever changing panel sizes, and trays. Both GSE and Easy roof seem slow to get newer sizes through MCS for them to become certified and distributed. Not sure if that's improved recently, but defo something you need to have in check before you order panels / trays.

Knowing what you’re looking at and being able to interject positively / productively is crucial. Too many clients with big balls but zero construction industry experience or knowledge = disaster.

Yes, but take the box all the way to meet the AT layer at the ceiling, so all the cables can go up in an AT riser. Requires zero GAF for the electricians then.

It may be possible that you’re over-thinking the 💩 out of this….. It’s likely to have ‘done’ whatever it needs to do by now anyways. I’ve not poured one yet where it’s a perfect finish, as it varies with thickness etc. Go to the pub instead 🤝👍

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"All hail the ale!"

Have the rockwool held in place by zig-zagging bricklayers string-line, stapling it into position side to side, to keep it in place (from sagging and contacting the membrane).

The wall behind the CU is where your AT layer should be? So you'd just airtight the wall from floor to ceiling and then neither the CU or the cabling / grommets are outside / breaching the AT layer. What is the wall construction?

A table saw is for sheet material, or trimming down timbers lengthways, not for cross cutting etc. You'll just hurt yourself or the saw. You'll be able to do mitres etc with a chop (mitre) saw too.

That's the norm in most instances, until the pipe fall naturally drops lower than the underside of the P5. You'll be fine to have such a small area missing.

I try to get the 40mm as near to the shower trap as possible, often using a pair of M&F 45's to get the size drop just under the floorboards. You losing another 5, 10, or even 15mm of joist will have zero consequence in the real world, but will make a big difference in how well the shower discharges.

They look horrible compared to a flush or low-profile tray. Yuk

Are you allowing for the obligatory layer of plywood you'll need over the particle board (chipboard)? Is the board you have P5 / moisture resistant?

For £60 you could throw it away at the end of the job!

Stop using it for cutting CLS, and get a cheap chop/mitre saw. Dangerous as FECK!

Don’t do this, as you’ll be introducing a shoulder in the opposing flow. It’ll promote it blocking early. How can’t you find another 10mm??

First off, NEVER use silicone for this, and always use a product such as CT1. Silicone has a very short life expectancy in comparison. Usually the underside of the tray is ground down to a flat surface, waaaaaay better than that pic shows, but it’s not life or death. As above the underside isn’t of paramount importance as the primary sealing is done at the top surface, but be sure to apply a smear of CT1 the top of the trap before tightening it up against the black rubber washer.

This is why JG Speedfit is banished for my jobs, unless it’s for wet testing. Hep2o manifolds have never let me down.

Yes, won’t it be quite dangerous to be swapping out a glazed unit if you’re above the ground floor? I’d still say this is your best bet tbh. Saves the risks of juggling the glazed unit and (eventually) buggering up the seals / beads.

It would be a serious compromise to security, plus it’s going to kill your window beads from taking in/out seasonally. I’d core drill a hole down low, to match exactly where the outlet exists the AC unit, and just blank the hole off when not in use. Simple blanks with EPS plugs to insulate through winter and be draught-proof would be simple to make, and no unsightly hose or flimsy plastic panel to contend with.

Don’t overheat it. Slow and steady wins the race.

He found it in a holiday let, and just happened to have a pipe cutter in the glovebox.....