Nickfromwales

Oven cannot go on to a ring main, again ( @Pappa ) this needs a dedicated RCBO and it's own cable to an isolator.

Been 'a thing' since the 18th iirc. No, a dedicated RCBO and a single cable to an FCU is required for an integrated microwave, but things like Quooker taps and warming drawers can go on a ring main socket.

Good outcome, and thanks for the update.

Thread tidied. As you were people. The management.

Put the washer & dryer on a dedicated ring and take the outside socket(s) off that. Feed the outside sockets via a 20a DP switch, off that ring, and if there’s any issue (damage or water) to the outside socket you can isolate it; the washer / dryer can carry on being used then without the RCBO tripping. Treat both of those bathroom power circuits as the ‘utility ring’, extending it to the loft. You want anything outside segregated so any issues you may have outdoors won’t take anything indoors with it. Have the basement emergency light fed off the basement light loop, not off a dedicated breaker, just way OTT to segregate that; it’ll have the same functionality that you seek. I’d put another em lgt on the first floor landing close to the stairs to allow someone to come down safely from the upper level in a power out, as I have done here. You can convert almost any generic light fitting to an em lgt with an add-on pack. That will do a hob or large oven. Single ovens and fixed (integrated) microwaves both need dedicated circuits, whereas a ‘loose’ microwave sat on a worktop doesn’t. CAT6 to all TV’s, solar inverter, desktops, network printer, and WAP locations. Include duct grade CAT6’s to the outbuilding (garden wifi) and EV charger location. Consider xmas lights, and a single socket (where a chuffing airwick will live forever) and also which ones would be useful if it’s a USB double socket; buy a tidy high-powered one if charging a tablet is a must at the bedside(s) etc. Saves losing a socket outlet everywhere you need to plug a charger in.

Why plywood and not ‘no more ply’ / other board type?

Kindness is always taken as weakness. Sad, but true. Be on top, or underneath, but decide now which one of those two options sits least well, and dig down deep.

First thing out of the box is the trusty laser. Saved my arse soooooooooo many times. Hopefully the return coving will be perfectly acceptable, and you'll need to fast-forward to a year from now when you (actually) no longer even look at it. Too many people get utterly lost in these micro-details, and then come 12 months later, life has returned to normal, and these things are of zero consequence anymore.

You shouldn't be mixing water based and oil based products. Have you sought professional advice before proceeding?

Sorry to be a stick in the mud, but your electrician will not thank you for doing this, and it may deter some. You will need to size the appliances, so for my current client I have pulled 1x 10mm T&E for the hob, 1x 6mm T&E for the large double oven, 1x 4mm T&E for the smaller oven, 1x 2,5mm T&E for the fixed microwave (you cannot plug a fixed microwave into a socket, it must have its own cable and its own RCBO), 2x 2.5mm T&E for kitchen ring, and have sized the CU according to the total number of circuits required for the whole house. PLEASE get input from your chosen electrician, as you're just flying blind and will likely just waste time and money vs saving it. They should be happy to let you do some of the 'donkey work' especially if they are busy, but THEY must tell you what to run as you are quite a far way off with what you're typing out here....sorry again.

I can't see any reason it would be a problem on the back, but the front is usually taped (with foil tape) across boards and timbers to create the vapour barrier; this negates installing a dedicated VB. Working in a lath and plaster filled house currently (for my sins methinks) and I wholeheartedly agree.

Time to drop anchor and grind them to a halt. Sounds like they need a bit of bringing down to earth, along with the boisterous builder. If this is how they begin, christ knows how difficult / arrogant they'll be as they get comfortable.

Cant you get the 50mm in there? Recess it where necessary etc.

You will be putting the DPM in underneath the insulation, so anything above that won’t be in direct contact with damp / moist ground, so just go with 200mm insulation. You should be using PIR vs EPS at <250mm btw, as EPS is a poorer performing product. You’d be fine with 50mm EPS at the bottom and 150mm PIR, if on a shoestring.

Option 2 will work, just add a sharp sand blinding layer over the compacted hardcore and use that to level the ground, plus also protect the DPM.

Oh, absolutely. Yup, 6 months means <12.

4mm2 earth cable was retired a good few years ago, so I fear you’re quite unprepared for this. Please consult a sparky, as the fuse-board aka CU (consumer unit) is very likely in need of an upgrade to make this safe for your little bundle of joy

It’s so much easier to knock a door, with a bottle of wine in hand, and ask how the best way forwards can be achieved. Builder needs a lesson in how to act professionally and courteously, so sounds like he’s used to being somewhat of a bully, sadly. I’d just go and knock their door, and have a normal, regular conversation with them, which will give you an opportunity to explain your prior objections, and the way the builder has spoken to you, I think you must accept the inevitable, and not lose any more sleep. Go talk to them

Shame they couldn’t use a spirit level when setting the ceiling out….

There’s so much velocity with rain / storm water, these things just tend to flush themselves out. Last one had private BCO and warranty by the same company, and they didn’t want / ask for rodding on rainwater. If you choose wisely, the rainwater gulleys can come with a blank access plug, so it maintains a trap but gives rodding access to the pipework. Decent jetters can get around pretty much anything tbh.

Pretty much, unless it’s a cathedral. Temporary tiled displays can go onto decoupling membranes that are floating over the substrate, some I have done exactly like this over floating floors in apartment blocks where the floors are mechanically disconnected by design, for acoustic control. Sounds doomed to fail, but worked perfectly well tbh.

Work out the sizes you need, go to a merchant, and cut up an 8x4 in their yard.

Filler panel to match the wardrobe doors, scribed in to the coving. I never have the coving finish to the panel as it’s a pig to install ‘in reverse’ plus then it can be installed /removed easily.

My PH certified designer is Ok with 1000mm separation, so ergo, I am also good with that; or anything more as a bonus. I feel your pain. Currently on site retrofitting a whole of house MVHR system into a converted 3 storey, brick built Victorian semi….. Done more carpentry and joinery than MVHR work here tbh!! 🥵

£2k for peace of mind and absolute insurance against failure for 200m2 of floor, is not really a “big” cost, considering the project as a whole? Think of the cost and inconvenience of this having been omitted, but necessary, and you're down to a part of 1%, not even a whole. 49%, eg at ‘50% doubt’ I’d be decoupling.