Nickfromwales

That was the original plan, when considering a combined hydronic solution with heat / cool via slab / MVHR / one big built in fan coil unit to scavenge the excess heat from the first floor. Binned that now in favour of full AC, all built in to purpose made ‘hideouts’ with 4 units for 4 bedrooms, and a large 5th unit for the large gallery aspect / FF landing. Each bedroom will have it’s own stat so each can respond linear to sunshine / solar effects, but also so the second they're not needed anymore they go into standby. As always, early prevention means you don’t need an aggressive cure.

TF company shouldn’t be punished if your fenestration is letting the side down!?!

Some say yes and others no, but me personally I’d be masking up anything I knew was letting the score be affected. MVHR condensate for example; the vents in the rooms can still blow back to the drains via the waterless traps often used there, so I disconnect these and gaffa tape over the open port(s). VERY important that you do this if the MVHR is installed and you have AeroBarrier attend!!!!!

0.64 is very very good, so bin that off and keep the £2k for sure. I’d get AB in if I found the initial test to be 1.0 or above, simply to maximise MVHR and heat / cool efficiencies, but also to future proof the AT getting progressively poorer over time. If you sealed up the leaks associated with fenestration, you’d be around 0.45 I’d guess, maybe better, and if you know that air is leaking through these then you’d defo NOT want the AB product sealing those locations; I would be advising you to fully mask off the doors / windows / roof lights and only allow the AB product to find every other nook and cranny instead. Your as-built test will be warts & all, including open (wetted) traps in all kitchens, bathrooms and utility etc / open service ducts (albeit you would defo be sealing these back up long term with FM330 foam / CT1 / AT tape etc of course) / MVHR (open pathways to atmosphere), and more. Leave it alone now, as you’ve done plenty good enough a job sealing the fundamental fabric of the dwelling. So, “congrats on a good job’” 👍

In fairness, given the 5 and 6 figure feck ups I’ve seen, this particular instance is more an annoying hiccup. Glass half full approach is the way to get to the finish line.

I’m constantly firing idiots on my clients behalves. Just shocking how some own a saw but say it’s blunt; then I mention that they’re holding it upside down……😵‍💫🫣😣. Most recent builder to receive a bullet….you’d have to see how poor the work was to believe it. He of course couldn’t see what the problem was, or when shown just kept saying “ok, I’ll put that right”. The fact he ignored written and verbal instruction was just another day in the office. And a site littered with empty beer cans; instant dismissal applies there afaic. Glad you’ve found your voice!

I think, psychologically, that you accept audibility / nuisance of anything that is cooling you down, as I’d rather have the noise than the heat every damn day. I put a 12000BTU unit in my lads attic room and it’s defo not ‘quiet’, but he sleeps through it without losing a wink. If too hot, none of us sleep well, so without a budget for fixed, wonderfully quiet, integrated AC present, this is a very acceptable compromise for the masses.

Very nice 👌

There’s a self-adhesive ‘peel and stick’ detail strip, on a roll, which I applied to these right awkward bastards: LINK Note we added stainless jubilee clips for belt & braces as Radon was v high.

If Radon is known to be a ‘high’ level, then I assume detailing the way that membrane is closed off correctly (as shown) would be a major issue here; not just time / cost, but in having this executed perfectly (BCO and warranty eyes will focus on this quite intensively if the risk is significant). Try knocking a couple of the common bricks off to see how well the Marmox breakers have adhered, as on a previous project you didn’t have to do much more than sneeze for these to come loose (tripped over a few and that was enough to dislodge them, prob too dry a bedding mix). No hate here, just sometimes replies are raw and ‘to the point’ as folk simply want to give you advice / information / direction as best they see it; often not allowing for the state of the recipient at that exact moment, which obvs does get taken the wrong way sometimes. No deleting accounts, take a breath and relax as the support here will help to get you over the finish line, you just need cut through the noise and get to the bits which you find relevant / helpful. Nobody here doesn’t want you to succeed, it’s simply not that type of forum. . If you have high levels of Radon then be aware that the rising ducts / pipes etc need to be detailed meticulously, something discovered on a current client's project. Top hats are slid over the soil pipes etc, are taped to the Radon barrier, and nave to be Jubilee clipped to form the correct detail.

Timber frame (studs) should already be on strips of DPC, so just lap it up vertically at the walls, lay the floor, and trim off excess afterwards.

I'm assuming across the bottom of their driveway, outside of their boundary.

If bare walls, who gives a hoot about seeing a bit of PIR around the perimiter?

Mildly confusing, so which one is it? Are you having a floor covering? More info and less ambiguity please!

30mm support strip? Erm, “No”. You install a DPC and use XPS against the inner face of the outer leaf. Use a semi dry concrete mix, topped with a layer of Marmox backer board, and then the concrete can take it’s tome to fully cure behind that shield. Do as uncle Nick says, and stop faffing about, please. Less yapping, more mixing and laying, as this can all be finished and done by 5pm tonight. Zero damp will pull up as you’ll be replacing (and reinforcing) your DPC/M with these works. FYI, your above ‘new’ plan is crap, sorry. My thumb is slowly wearing down, so heed, or don’t heed, up to you squire.

Have you bought a heat pump cylinder, or a regular cylinder?

I do it on almost every job. Doesn’t dry the trap out, that’s a wife's tale, as you’d only do 2/3 of the dead end of the tray anyways; when you turn the shower on the hot water almost instantly warms the remaining 1/3, and the UTH is a 1/3 of the tray away from the trap. ”Do it”. 🫡🙂

Traditional dab is fine. Lots of smaller ones, vs a few bigguns

Win win then. Great stuff.

Progress-is-a-making 🙂🫡

Indeed. I’m just waiting the hear the chink, from when the penny drops 👀

Amen, I know I can’t keep up with 20k+ members exact circumstances lol. Can’t remember what colour socks I just put on tbf.

If there’s a grout line near the transition you’ll likely see issues there over time. Delete the cavity, which is standard practice at openings. I may have mentioned doing this……

No such tool exists sir. One or the other