Temp

Shouldn't be a problem.

Keep them upwind of you boiler flue. Ideally on a different wall around the corner.

As for structural work it might depend on what you have inside. Does the first floor meet the front wall above the current front door or do you already have a stair well? Which way do the floor joists run? Front to back or left right? A lintel is also needed above the top window.

Welcome to the forum, if you find it useful consider donating to server costs. These are sometimes called "full height" doors or windows. Normally used where the ground floor inside also extends upto the roof, perhaps the stair we'll, but not necessarily.

I'd go with your joiners suggestion. I think having the recess on the hall side also looks better.

Could be the inverter or the panels. On some old systems shading or a defect on just one cell in one panel limits the output of the whole system. Needs someone to look at it on a sunny day not just guess from their office.

Google finds.. https://www.scribd.com/document/376182521/Log-Book-for-Operation-ETP But is it required in UK?

I think with AA you can only extend "above the top most floor" so not clear if you can build above the garage? Edit: Sorry I confused this with another thread.

How high up each side does the lead go under the membrane? How were the joints in the lead done? This drawing shows a roof meeting a chimney but against a wall I would go higher. Two bricks or more rather than the one shown..

If you can't hold the wood steady hand saws are a nightmare. They pull and push the wood around and jam up in the cut. I'd still make a jig, perhaps two rails and a ratchet strap to hold logs still on a bench while cutting with a chainsaw. Otherwise split them first then run them through a band or table saw.

Looks to me like it was originally meant to have fasia and soffit then they changed their mind to exposed rafter ends. I would expect there to be some sarking boards or T&G on top of the rafters so you can't see the underside of the roofing felt. I've seen a lot worse brickwork. Looks average to me.

I had a quick look at their web site. They have some rated down to 40 and others 35. Think I would tell them which ones you like and see if they can recommend a similar tile that's OK at 35 degrees. Or perhaps see if they will contact the manufacturer and ask if increasing the overlap and by how much would allow them to be used at 35 degrees. Make them work for your order.

Status of EDF nuclear here.. https://www.edfenergy.com/energy/power-station/daily-statuses

Presumably if you use a bitumen based product it has to be a ventilated cold roof structure (50mm ventilated void) or is a warm roof structure with insulation above the rafters possible?

There are some brick laying channels on YouTube, might be worth asking in the comments section. Google suggests greater skill is required to get flemish to look right and there are more perps per sqm so must be some cost premium.

I think if you are building a brick and block cavity wall Stretcher and Flemish use the same number of bricks if you ignore losses due to cutting.

Is it very exposed? Have you already purchased them? Some Marley and Weinererger are rated down to 35 degrees. https://www.burtonroofing.co.uk/blog/the-versatility-of-clay-plain-tiles-burton-roofing/

35 degrees is possibly OK for some tiles. But see here for options. Not all would recommend them... https://www.dreadnought-tiles.co.uk/Pitches-below-35-degrees

If you can keep the neighbour happy the cost of the Party Wall Act compliance can be minimal. I would get your SE to design the foundations and provide advice on how to dig them so you don't damage next door's garage. Then I would go and see them armed with copies of the drawings, letters from the SE and the notification letter as required by the Party Wall Act. There is a sample letter in the Guide to the Act. I think there is also a sample letter they could sign if happy. Make a big deal about how you have paid for an SE to give advice on how to avoid damage and if they are happy with the method your SE has proposed ask them to let you have the response letter back. You could hint that another SE thought the proposed method was unnecessary but that you want to do it the safest method. If you don't get that back within 14 days you have to assume they disent and it gets expensive.

Check the actuator hasn't come loose allowing the pin to come up. Check flow meters? Any pumps running that shouldnt?

When we laid our turf we promptly had a 10 days of sun and wind. It was a nightmare trying to keep it wet enough to stop it shrinking. We had to run two sprinklers and move them around every hour. If not big gaps appeared. I'd never lay turf when dry weather is forecast or without having sprinklers available.

If it was laid in February it will be well anchored down by now. Our 17 year old lawn is showing some yellowing and if we don't have some rain this week I'll be starting to water it in the evenings with a sprinkler from our rainwater tank.

I worry more about my angle grinder, particularly with a cutting blade.

Or at least staggered.

The cupboards in the wardrobe are too narrow to have rails for shirts and coats running parallel to the wall, would have to be perpendicular to the walls or use something like waterfall rails.