Temp

Cross out those not claimable. I also wrote the amended total and VAT on them in pencil. I numbered all my receipts and made sure the same numbers were on the spreadsheet. If its a whole category of stuff (eg you are trying to incorrectly reclaim vat paid in error on labour) they will send it back. Just a few items they will process it and tell you why the reclaim is different to your total. Just one or two they might not even notice. General rule is you cannot reclaim for anything purchased after completion. However I think there have been exceptions, possibly items delayed by bad weather? Best not rely on them allowing anything purchased late if you can avoid it. Not in my case. All went well.

https://www.steelsdirect.co.uk/faqs/ Check with whoever designed the beam?

More info required. Im not an SE but I thought the bearing end should be circa 150mm? Sometimes brick piers or steel posts have to be added otherwise its only resting on a 100mm thick leaf. If your RSJ doesn't reach to the cavity one end how long is the bearing? Less than 100mm or is their a pier? Edit: Perhaps I'm wrong, perhaps 100mm is ok?

Jolly good. If it ends up saving you a fortune consider a modest donation to the forum running costs, let us know and I'll send you a Buildhub key fob..

@sunflower If the above is still the case it might be worth trying to appeal the condition to get it changed to any equestrian business before you start?

How is that different to a painter using his own brushes? An electrician using his own wire cutters. Ground worker and his own digger?

Scratch that. It depends on the exact wording of the condition.... https://www.buckles-law.co.uk/library-news/agri-occupancy-planning-conditions-beware-the-vat-sting/ Quotes.. It is now established that where there is an agricultural occupancy planning condition or obligation restricting occupancy of a dwelling to the agricultural use of specific premises (or similar specific business operational use) then such development will not be entitled to VAT reclaim under section 35 of the VAT Act 1994 (“the 1994 Act”). But... The Upper Tribunal distinguished between the cases with specific link to agricultural and business premises and those will a general agricultural tenancy condition. The later being entitled to VAT refund (assuming all other conditions satisfied)...

I see no reason why it wouldn't be zero rated to you. It would definitely NOT be zero rated if you rented it out before living in it. That's down to a subtle difference between "zero rating" and "exempt".

I'm not quite sure how ASHP handles things but it's not normally wasted.. With a gas boiler the unused hot flow returns to the boiler raising the return temperature. The boiler modulates down to keep the flow temperature constant. So the gas used depends on the mixing ratio at the UFH manifold. On an oil boiler (these can't modulate the burner) the flow temperature rises and the boiler cycles the burner on and off. That can reduce efficiency but not much unless its short cycling a lot. We have a thermal store that feeds our UFH so the oil boiler runs flat out until the store is back upto temperature and then shuts off. This reduces short cycling but wastes some through heat loss to the room.

It can be rotated to the left or right at any angle (below horizontal obviously). I suspect many just hang vertically for the photo.

I forgot.... We wet plastered the fireplace. I got a local stone Mason to supply some 20mm black granite for the stove to stand on. He cut this to my template. This must be the right shape and size to meet the regs. It must be 12mm higher that the finished floor for the rest of the room. The stove must be certified not to raise the temperature of the hearth more than 100c. I can recommend the Clearview stoves but they might not have one tall enough?

What's inside the main chimney? We have one that's "offset" but ours is to the side rather than the back. Inside our chimney we used 210mm (?) ID pumice liner blocks/tubes. Theses were built with the chimney, as you would the inner leaf of a brick and block wall. At the bottom there is one with a 45 degree bend to bring it out through the wall into the fireplace. To the bottom of that I fitted a register plate (more like a register funnel) to reduce down to the 150mm stove pipe. Get this sorted ASAP because I have a feeling stainless liner type flues aren't allowed on new builds only for lining old chimneys. I might be wrong though.

Lucky escape. Buy a lottery ticket this week. My wife hit the end of a pipe that rolled off the verge into the road while it was being dragged along the verge. Damaged a wheel and tyre. The water companies contractor offered to pay for the damage, sent a nice apology and a hamper! I would submit a formal complaint sent recorded delivery and keep a copy. It's up to you what you put in the letter but I would point out that you did recieve an actual electric shock and that you and your grand children may owe your life to your rubber soled Welington boots (substitute whatever footwear you were wearing). Ask for an apology and details of what action has been taken against the person responsible (retraining?) and a copy of any report made to the HSE. I would add a note saying something like "At the present time I will not be taking legal action but we reserve the right to do so unless an adequate response is recieved". This just my personal opinion, I'm not a lawyer or solicitor. I'm kinda surprised you haven't been phoned up by the no win no fee ambulance chasers.

+1 To the no/bad Earth theory. Some 45 years ago as a school kid I had a summer job with an electrician. Went to a school where staff were complaining of shocks from metal light switches, a sink etc. Turned out to be a bad Earth near the distribution panel. The Earth wire was acting like a big aerial picking up about 60V from the adjacent live and delivering it to all correctly earthed face plates. Check the Earth connection in the socket. If that's OK get an electrician to check the Earth back to the CU or possibly even further.

Definitely, I should have said.

The issue with ASHP is that electricity has historically been three times the cost of mains gas per kWh. So an ASHP needs to be operated with a COP of 3 to be comparable to gas. This is possible if the ASHP is sized and installed correctly. In fact it's possible to get higher than 3 resulting in cost savings. However if the installer gets it wrong and the COP averages only say 2 then the bills could be 50 % more or worse. In some bad cases they could double. To maximise the COP the ASHP must be large enough and coupled to a low temperature system (eg UFH under tiles or over sized rads). If its under sized or connected to rads designed for the much higher flow temperatures produced by gas boilers then COP can suffer. This proplem is reducing as new designs of ASHP are getting better at producing high flow temperatures. Others know more about the state of the art than me.

The massive tilt wasn't on the approved plans 🙂

@Jimbo37 Sorry I missed the reply in January. Its hard to remember all the threads Ive been active in. I didn't spot you are in NI until just now. Looks like the rules are different there to England. I managed to find this which is bad news but I have another suggestion below.. https://www.judiciaryni.uk/sites/judiciary/files/decisions/COOPER FINAL JULY 19 (003).pdf One possibility might be to challenge the valuation on which the rates are calculated. That wasn't an issue in the case quoted above, they all agreed its value. Presumably if it is/was uninhabitable its value would be a lot lower so the rates calculated should be lower? This might take the matter out of the hands of the local council to whatever tribunal values properties for ratable value in NI?

@osprey The vents are also used to support the first row of tiles at the correct angle - needed because they are the only ones without a tile below to rest on.

If they are UCF 205 the shaft diameter is 25mm diameter. That's plenty big enough. The one you linked to is pretty expensive for this application. I'd use two cheaper bearings one either side as per @markc drawing. To prevent the drum sliding along the shaft I'd use a pair of these collars fixed to the shaft using the grub screw. https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Solid--Unsplit/CABU25Z--25mm-Shaft-Collar-SolidUnsplit-40282-p

Would only be something like one of these in series with the manifold loop pump. Pretty simply wiring unless I've missed something. https://underfloorheatingsupply.co.uk/product/pipe-thermostat/

If its a vapour permeable membrane and tiles I dont think it needs ventilating below the membrane and not much above it due to gaps between tiles providing some.

Could you ask them to mirror their proposal so the gardens are next to your house rather than the new bungalows. Would be low cost to the builder.

The boiler flow (48) is mixed with the UFH return (26) to produce the UFH flow (36). We can even work out what fraction of each the mixing is using to make the UFH flow.. 48X + 26Y = 36(X + Y) X + Y = 100% Solving these simultaneous equations gives.. X = 45.5% Y = 54.5% So the 36C UFH flow is made up of 45.5% Boiler flow at 48C and 54.5% UFH return at 26C.

Be careful because although pure Aerogel is the best insulation material the blanket stuff sold for house insulation isn't always massively better than cheaper insulation. In terms of the thermal conductivity lower values are is better... Aerogel blanket GORE Aerogel Blanket - about 0.020 W/mK Thermablok Aerogel - about 0.015W/mK Proctor Spacetherm - approx 0.015W/mk Phenolic board Kooltherm K5 - approx 0.021 W/mk Polyisocyanurate (PIR) board Celotex GA4000) - approx 0.022 W/mK. So i would expect. 150mm of an Aerogel blanket to be equivalent of 210-220mm of Phenolic or PIR. 75mm of Aerogel blanket to be equivalent of 100-110mm Phenolic or PIR.