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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. Temp
    In my area builders merchants sell a few different grades of plywood. All is claimed to be wbp but some is dire quality and how they can claim it's waterproof I've no idea - it seems to have more in common with a well known brand of breakfast cereal. Shop around and go see what it's like.
  2. Temp
    If it was my forever house I would have the arches out and full length steel beams installed. Quite a lot of work. There isn't much of a pier left at one end and that might need fixing. Rewiring can cause a lot of disruption leading to a lot of making good plaster and redecorating. Whats the heating system like? I think I would get quotes to do a lot of work and use them to haggle down the price. Allow a decent contingency. If they won't budge and it doesn't make sense financially I'd walk away.
  3. Temp
    My understanding is that the Danish scheme covers claims up to a date (4 weeks from them being told about the insolvency) and premiums until the end of the policy. This makes sense for something like car insurance. Basically it gives you 4 weeks to find a new policy and the premium back to pay for it. So in theory you are no worse off/don't loose anything . For a structural warranty it's problematic as you can't so easily move to a new provider. I think anyone with a policy from Alpha that is underwritten by CBL should ask Alpha if they have a new underwriter. If they do then ask about new paperwork. If not then I suspect all cover for claims ends after the 4 weeks are up. Alternatively you should get your premium back from either Alpha or the Danish scheme. This is just my interpretation of what I can find on the web. I might be wrong!
  4. Temp
    I believe sockets are allowed in a bathroom if over 3m from zone one but must be protected by an RCD. Just not sure if the RCD can be in the socket or if it had to be in the consumer unit. Try the electrician's forum?
  5. Temp
    Warranties are only ever as good as the company that writes them. The Danish protection scheme appears to cover part of the premium if you can't get it back from the credit card co... http://www.skadesgarantifonden.dk/english/Sider/QAs.aspx 1000 DKK is about £120. It may also cover claims but only for 4 weeks or so after the company goes bust.
  6. Temp
    BuildIt article.. https://www.self-build.co.uk/alpha-insurance-liquidation-structural-warranty-advice/ Note the quote from CRL that says self builders "do not need to do anything at present" and see the paragraph that follows. Edit: Just noticed that was their response to Buildit in 2015!
  7. Temp
    Seems to be problems with both... https://www.insurancebusinessmag.com/uk/news/breaking-news/troubles-at-cbl-see-alpha-insurance-go-into-liquidation-93956.aspx
  8. Temp
    They figure people don't water their garden enough so rainwater butts sit there full and most of the rainwater goes out the overflow into the sewer.
  9. Temp
    Is this where the FSCS rescue scheme comes in?.... https://www.moneysupermarket.com/money-made-easy/what-happens-if-my-insurance-firm-goes-bust/
  10. Temp
    Jolly good. If your hob is on cylinders I think you will be surprised how little gas a hob uses. Ours gets a lot of use and a 47kg cylinder lasts at least 18 months.
  11. Temp
    We built our house about 11 years ago. At the time someone told me to budget £100 a meter for just about any service involving trenching across a field, more if it had to go under a road. The water main actually ran across our plot but needed diverting to the edge. This involved a trench and pipe about 45m long all on our plot. The cost for that and connecting our house to it was about £4600 so pretty close to the £100 a meter budgeted.
  12. Temp
    Here you go... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200126/applications/60/consent_types/14
  13. Temp
    I think a "notification of tree works" is required for all trees in a conservation area (if the trunk diameter is over 75mm).
  14. Temp
    BBC report that a combination thought to be ok has failed test in Dubai... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-44748514
  15. Temp
    You could mesh and render right over the lead on the face but I wasn't sure how to do the corner where you have that small flap/triangle of lead. With a stop bead that bit of lead comes out from under the bead. If you render down to that triangle of lead and the lead moves I thought the render might crack in that area.
  16. Temp
    Just a check but... Are there soakers under the lead and slate?
  17. Temp
    I'm thinking put the bottom of the stop bead about here...
  18. Temp
    +1 I think in this case you could find a stop bead with a wide mesh (or separate mesh) and fit that lower down so the mesh covers the lead. Would need to use stainless steel screws and SS or lead washers to fix the mesh through the flashing into the brick before rendering. Google found photos of something similar.. https://www.yelp.co.uk/biz_photos/ben-hockey-roofing-chalvington?select=_LLkfuZwwPUKDobw-N4RiQ
  19. Temp
    Black circles work same way as Asda and similar prices. Sometimes one is cheaper depending on make. I usually compare both because sometimes one of them will have an additional discount on 4 tyres.
  20. Temp
    +1 to it being vapour permeable/breathable. Check if the membrane is allowed to be installed in contact with the insulation. Not all manufacturers allow this. If they do then I'd put it under the counter battens in contact with the PIR. Otherwise put it above the counter battens with a gap below. This gap does NOT need to be ventilated like a cold roof construction. The membrane should be allowed to drape between the counter battens so it's not in contact with the underside of the tile battens. This is done to allow water blown under the tiles to drain down the membrane. If there is no drape water can pool above the horizontal tile battens causing them to rot. Vapour barrier on the warm/inside of the insulation. Fit as much insulation as you can. It will help keep the rooms in the roof cooler in summer.
  21. Temp
    Perhaps put some gravel around the water pipe so the water from the spring follows it off site.
  22. Temp
    Welcome to the forum. Thought a heads up on VAT might be in order... If building three houses you won't be able to use the self build VAT reclaim scheme for all of them because it's only available to people building their own house to live in themselves. The houses will still qualify for zero rating but you would have to use a VAT registered builder and get him to by all the materials. You couldn't use subcontractors and buy materials yourself unless you have another mean of reclaiming the VAT on the materials.
  23. Temp
    You've got some nice looking young trees in the background, will you be able to keep them?
  24. Temp
    This is the sort of pump I've used. Got it in Belgium when we lived over there. Some come with plastic parts rather than stainless steel. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-pressure-best-brand-stainless-steel_60488160410.html
  25. Temp
    Your pump will need to be capable of a "negative head" of at least a few meters (height of bank + bit). Some care is needed to get the right pressure and flow rate if you plan to connect the pump directly to the sprinkler. Personally I would go for a pump with a bladder tank built in but they are a bit more expensive. They switch on an off automatically as the pressure in the tank varies. Typically they have the pump mounted on the metal casing of the bladder tank and it's easy to mount a filter to the input. Hoselock do one (without a bladder tank?) but I've never used one.. .
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