Temp

Not sure why it should scratch up. Sounds like the cover is way too tight.

I recommend parking your car somewhere so that there is a wall next to the passenger side. Don't try for super close just comfortable. Get out and push a tape under the car until it reaches the wall. Open drivers door as far as needed to get in/out easily. See where the end of the door comes to. We were surprised and ended up adding a meter to our garage. Back of the envelope based on a Ford Focus …. Car is about 1850mm wide. You need at least say 150mm on passenger side and around 600-700mm on driver side to get in/out reasonably easily making 2.6-2.7m. Double it to give 5.2-5.4. So at 5.6m wide there would be no room for a bike down the side or something like a ladder on the passenger side wall? So yes I agree with ProDave that 3m per car is a reasonable minimum width. A focus is also 4.7m long so the space left might effect the type of garage door you have.

Think I might also be tempted to remove the low wall and railings at the front? Replace with planting or just railings?

Their comment in red is one point not two separate points. In plain English... "It doesn't won't look right when viewed from the road and that's important because it is/will be close to the road." +1 In my opinion your architect has also made it look worse by shading the extension to show the brick pattern where as the rest of the house is shown unshaded. Try something like this if you can afford the extra windows. The ground floor window could be frosted/wavy glass if its still going to be a WC.

I think someone here or on the old forum recommended them to me some years back.

Think it might be marginally easier in F360... Create a sketch with two circles on it. One for the ID, one the OD. Select the area between the two circles. Push/pull it to the required length. ..but perhaps that also works in AutoCad?

I used Ubiquiti ToughCable and matching screened connectors. Needs a crimping tool. The cable is rated for outdoor use (eg UV stable). Plenty of other makes available.

That's exactly how F360 is intended to be used! You create "sketches" (aka elevations or projections) and then extrude or push/pull bits of them to create bodies or holes in bodies using the push/pull tool. Sketches don't have to be limited to the x,y and z planes. You can create a sketch on any face of the body (no matter what angle) and push/pull it about. Lets say you draw a circle on one face of a cube. You can extrude that in one direction to add a rod on the side of the cube or the other direction to make a hole through it. The extrude tool is very powerful, you can use it to create a body or a hole at a distance from the sketch. So for example one sketch can be used to create blind holes on opposite sides of the cube. PS Later you can go back and change the sketch and it will repeat all the pushing and pulling you did afterwards for you automatically.

That's also an issue with filament printers. The slicer I use (Curua) can add a raft or a brim around the object for you automatically. A raft is usually several layers thick and goes under the part. A brim is just a one layer "land" that surrounds the object like the brim around a hat. A brim is easy to remove so no need to raise the object on supports. A raft is harder.

I don't know AutoCAD but you can certainly split a solid into two in Fusion 360. You can turn any line into a cookie cutter and use it to split a body into two bodies. I made an impossible dovetail by drawing a cube and then using a line shaped like a dovetail to cut it into two mating halves. Merging two bodies into one is also easy. Yes you can but the ease depends on what files the author makes available. Sometimes they make F360 "source files" available but usually they only provide stl output files which are intended to be printed rather than edited. You can import stl files into F360, and I've done that, but they aren't super easy to work with. See youtube for vids on how to import stl files into F360 and edit them. Here is one..

Wow, that's very good. I've been trying and totally failing to print a similar lattice cube on my filament based printer.

In some situations VAT 708 requires the purchaser to provide a "certificate" to the person or company making the supply. I dont think self builders are ever required to do so but it might help convince the supplier if you issue one anyway. The certificate is basically just a letter stating the work was done on a new dwelling and providing details of the project including your planning reference number. Think there is a template in Vat 708 and didn't someone post their version on this forum some time ago?

I cut my hedges in January when there are no leaves. Makes clean up easier. Leave the cuttings piled up for a month so they burn with less smoke.

Behind the gutters or under the roof tiles?

Think the issue is the existing slab is raised 4ft above ground level.

Openreach (a BT subsidiary) manage the network supposedly independently from the rest of BT. All other phone and broadband providers use the Openreach network to deliver their service. The exception being companies that use a cable TV network. My recommendation is to pay the fee to get reconnected by BT/Openreach (without signing up to a new contract) but then shop around for the best phone/broadband deal you can get. Some offer a TV package delivered over broadband as well if you want that. If the telephone pole is on or next to your land you could consider running an underground cable from your house to the bottom of the pole. Leave enough coiled at the bottom to reach the top with spare. Ask them to connect that for you.

Autodesk make both AutoCad and Fusion 360. Fusion 360 is free and can apparently import DXF files from AutoCAD and export STL. I'm really loving Fusion 360 but I've never used AutoCad so can't compare.

Ask the new one what format he wants the drawings in.

Hates: - Not enough insulation in the walls/roof. - Frameless shower leaks just enough water to create scale on the outside. - Travertine washbasin grows mould no matter how frequently its bleached/cleaned (will be replaced one day). - Planked Wood floor in the WC starts parallel to the wall but somehow ends up not parallel behind the WC. See it every time you pee. - Site slopes so there are steps on the paving around the house. A pain when moving a scaffolding tower around. - Rabbit and mole invasion from the church yard next door. Loves: - Overall design (staircase in dining hall, double height window) - The location. - Concrete 1st floor. - UFH in bathrooms - The MHRV system, fresh air and no condensation - Mains pressure, seriously high flow rate showers. - Rainwater collection tank. - LPG Hob (no mains gas in village). - Owls in the church yard next door.

Building regulations require a ventilated gap under a wood floor. Never heard it called a fire risk.

+1 The modem can provide info on the quality of the line. Things like the signal to noise ratio (or signal to noise margin). If the engineer that turns up knows about broadband perhaps ask him to show you how to access the modem admin page. The signal to noise ratio should be above 10db, over 20db would be good.

I'm not an iPhone user but when you turn wifi ON on the phone they usually list the wifi networks (SSIDs) and asks which you want to connect to. Does it list any you don't recognise? Especially in parts of the house where your problem is worse?

Another idea to consider if everything else fails and you are considering replacing the cable... A CAT 6 UTP cable normally has 4 pairs in it. 2 pairs are used by the stat leaving 2 pairs (4 wires) unused. You could try connecting all the unused wires to ground at the hub end. Grounding the unused wires wouldn't be as effective as using screened cable with the screens grounded but might be worth a trying. Its a bit messy if the hub end uses proper network connectors. I'm thinking you would need to cut the connector from the wire, split out the unused wires to form tails, trim and replace the cores the stat uses into a new connector, crimp, strip insulation from the tails, crimp/solder on a ring tag, fix ring tag to ground on the hub. Something like that anyway.

Yes. The idea of the capacitor is to ensure any noise is coupled into both the +ve and -ve line equally. If both +ve and -ve are hit with the same value spike the difference between them stays the same (12V).

A property with a 999 year lease is normally worth virtually the same as a freehold property. So if he gives you a 999 year lease he is essentially giving you near the full value of the land. I'm pretty sure that's the way HMRC would see it. Its certainly the way mortgage companies normally see it. If you look at the typical cost of buying the freehold of a flat with a 999 year lease its <£5,000. I don't see any advantage of him doing this on a leasehold basis. Edit: The recent scandal about builders selling houses leasehold is due to the T&Cs they put in the lease about ground rent. Some of them double every 10 years.