Temp

Our down pipes are 80mm dia metal and connect into 110mm vertical plastic pipe at ground/patio level using rubber adaptors that fit over the 110mm pipe. Seems to work very well. If you ever need to rod them you can remove the rubber adaptor and or lower section of down pipe. We have lots of trees nearby but they have never been a problem. Although on my shed I did use one of those leaf traps.

Your best bet is to try and arrange for your electrician to be there when BG visit. I think I would at least have him prepare the short tails between meter, fuse and isolator just in case BG turn up without right stuff. Basically do your best to cover all bases to avoid a screw up.

Not sure if this is a good deal but I heard advert on radio that Selco are selling Thermalite blocks for 99p +VAT.

The room maybe a conversion but in the process you are effectively moving the boundary between the habitable rooms of two dwellings. The regs for such walls are tighter than for internal walls. My guess is the BCO feels his proposed solution (single brick, 10mm gap and 100mm PIR/PUR, plasterboard) is acceptable to him. Whether it it is good enough for you or meets the letter of the Approved Document for sound transmission is another matter.

See reply on other thread.

I suggest asking the Brickie how far below the DPC he recommends you to fill the trench. That may save him having to cut bricks/blocks and you paying for that.

To me that sounds like the difficult bit. Presumably this wall is brick/block and supports the roof of the house so a steel beam will be needed. Possibly also a brick pier or steel post with foundation in what was the corner?

+1. Most likely they mean a 100mm stud wall with 100mm PIR between the studs. Whole lot set 10mm away from the existing wall. The BCO may not have thought about a void for services, that's up to you. You could use thicker studs instead of battening. 100mm CLS is actually about 94-95mm wide so 100mm insulation wouldn't sit flush both sides if that sort of thing annoys you. Wickes sell 140mm CLS which would give you a rather deep 40mm service void. Perhaps fit 110mm insulation between 140mm studs leaving a 30mm void? See what you can get locally. One advantage of battening is that it gives you a second opportunity to flatten a wall if the studs are bowed. Best way to build this is probably to fit timber to floor and ceiling first then fit alternate stud - PIR - Stud - PIR. That way the studs can be tight up against the PIR with no need to cut the PIR to fit between studs. You might also consider two layers of plasterboard for extra sound proofing. Have they already converted "their side"? If not did the BCO say anything about what you need to do to prevent fire spread through shared roof?

As for editing pdf files... The simplest way might be just to print them, apply tipex or paper labels, photocopy, mark up and photocopy again. In the past I've used an office supplies company to do this on large sheets. If you want to edit the pdf itself it will depend how the image in the pdf file was generated. Free editors may allow you to extract the image to an image editing program.

From Trafford council web site..

I think decent size pilot holes is the way to go or you might start shearing off the heads of stainless steel screws.

I might be out of date but it used to be the case that not all multiplexes were broadcast at the same power. Typically the multiplexes containing BBC1, ITV etc were quite a bit more powerful than the lesser multiplexes such as COM8. It could just be his set up isn't good enough to receive COM/Now 80s.

I cant immediately workout OK which transmitter you point at but: The Tavistock transmitter is only a Freeview Light transmitter which doesn't broadcast the Com multiplexes. There are full service transmitters at Caradon Hill and Huntshaw Cross. Caradon Hill appears to cover Bude.

I used a radiant gas heater to keep me warm in a workshop. One side of you felt warm and the other cold...until the air warmed up. Guide here.. https://www.infraredheatersdirect.co.uk/news/radiant-heat-panels-demystified-fact-vs-fiction/ Suggests they are essentially "line of sight"... What if you want everywhere heated?

Dropbox might be another possibility.

If that was "Now 80s" then google says it is/was in multiplex "Com 8". That's broadcast by about 75% of the TV transmitters. Would have been 83 on the programming guide. If he can't get that it looks like its on Spotify and Sky (Freesat?). Edit: Apparently Com 8 is broadcast from Sandy Heath which is my transmitter but I can't immediately see any of the channels in that multiplex. That's probably because my Freeview Tuner doesn't support HD. Could he have same issue? What transmitter is he pointed at?

Yes. They are using the 57-60 for the 5g mobile phone network. People with "old" wide band aerials may need filters to prevent interference. I think they also plan to pinch a few more frequencies in future.

I'd put it on top. Perhaps make a jig to help you cut the loads of small bits needed to fill the gaps?

I note the cladding battens are 25*38. If the cladding is going to be nailed on I would go for bigger horizontal battens as with smaller battens it can be like trying to hammer a nail into a spring. Also take a look at some of the guides for cladding online. They normally recommend fixings are 1" from the end of a plank at a join. So that's 2" between nails but the batten is only 38mm wide. You might be able to avoid joins or use two battens or short blocks where there will be joins but it needs some planning ahead.

+1 In many areas you now need a wideband to get all the channels/MUX. However if you can use a group/narrow band they can work better (lower noise and more gain than a wideband).

Sounds like you got it sorted but just for info... usually a bigger aerial (higher gain) is better than a small(er) aerial and an amplifier. That's because amplifiers add their own noise. One issue is that a very high gain aerial can be very directional so very important to point it exactly right direction or you loose all the gain.

As understand it the government is concerned that old non working turbines might be abandoned as has happened in the USA. So planning grants normally have a planning condition requiring removal if it doesn't generate for six months. There is probably something similar in the PDR rules.

Nick - What is your outer skin? The other place we have some lead is on the top of some brick plinths/external window sills. Apparently that's an NHBC recommendation / anti frost spalling measure.

Some others here.. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p02q34z8

Summary of planning rules here.. https://www.thegreenage.co.uk/tech/planning-permission-for-wind-turbines/