Temp

I had an oak "shed" door made and they used T&G boards. These expanded and having nowhere to go the whole door bowed until it looked pregnant. If T&G is used it shouldn't be fully seated. I had to run a saw down the joints to allow some movement.

In case not obvious, don't just put a 500ml bottle of inhibitor in. Calculate how much you need to achieve the recommended concentration. For Furnox F1 they recommend 0.5%. So for example on a 500L thermal store that could be 2.5L (FIVE 500ml bottles) depending on how the store is designed. Plus some for the water in the UFH pipes.

Google says they have a good telephone support line. I guess this doesn't work?... file -> save as -> then use drop down menu to change the file extension to .dxf or .dwg

Did your SE say anything about needing to line the foundation trenches with foam board? We had to do that on clay.

Google found.. http://ravensbyglass.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/satin-tech-sheet.pdf 4-14-4-14-4 argon filled satin glass in middle u-value 0.7

I think you could end up with a slippery/sticky mess that paints the road white when wet.

Thanks. Did check ASDA but for the tyres i was after they seem to be exactly the same price. PS. My 17 year old kids are on a £7 a month ASDA phone tariff. Bit of a pain to administer but otherwise OK.

If you need car tyres... Try the promo code "Flash10" at Black circles for 10% off. They currently have a headline offer of £40 off four tyres but if you only need two then try Flash10 which seems to give 10% off two tyres.

Perhaps you just need some form of grill upstream to stop the bigger branches etc reaching the pipe. Stock photo on this page.. https://www.alamy.com/a-netting-floating-boom-tied-to-a-grating-catches-polluting-plastic-image8244833.html

I'm using 400-450 lumen GU10 downlights with beam angles over 90 degrees (typically around 100-140 degrees depending on what I can get). I think they are on approx 1.2m centres so the pools of light overlap to eliminate shadows. I avoid 36 degree bulbs because you get uneven illumination and harder shadows even with them this close together. I always fit "warm white" bulbs but they are cooler than halogen. You soon get used to them.

If you have locks with a separate latch and lock bolt then perhaps you just need a micro switch to detect the position of the bolt and some wire? Bit fiddly to set up though.

There are similar concrete beam and insulated block systems... http://www.tetrisfloors.co.uk/beam-and-block/

800 lumens is about twice what we are using in a kitchen. Do they need to be that bright?

+1 Our planners wanted us to plant 60m of hedge and 5 trees. Got the vat back.

The main advantage of foam insulation over rockwool is that foam insulation (PIR, PUR) has a better thermal resistance per mm of thickness. So it makes sense to use foam where thickness is an issue. To my mind the thickness isn't usually an issue in a loft so that would favour rockwool on the floor of a loft rather than foam under it. The exception might be where it's very hard to get a sufficient depth of rockwool at the eaves of a sloping roof (while preserving ventilation above it). In that case a combination seems like a reasonable choice. You may/should also consider adding a vapour barrier to reduce risk of condensation in the loft, especially if the ventilation is inadequate.

Oops.

[Boast] I have a AS level in Technical drawing from 1979 :-) [/Boast] Sadly i've forgotten a lot of it.

I'm in a conservation area. Two years back I noticed a tree on our boundary was dead. This was one of a group mentioned on our tree survey. To remove a dead tree you don't need to submit a notification of tree works but I did anyway. The council have four weeks to respond. After four weeks I got someone to cut it down. Took about an hour. Two weeks later I get an email from the tree officer saying I can go ahead. I didn't tell him he was two weeks late.

PS. I recommend calling the bits of metal "Parts" or "Items"rather than "Sections" because a "section" on a drawing is normally a cross sectional view. When someone sees "Section 2" on a drawing they think its the view you would get if the part was cut along line 2.

If you want four separate bits of metal delivered I recommend providing four separate drawings. A development drawing is just a template used to cut the flat sheet before bending. So its trivial for flat parts. For section 2 (the curved part) you appear to have drawn the development correctly on the left hand side but its missing one dimension. That dimension appears to be the length from point 1 to point 2 which I make 4.2 * pi/2 = 6.597m. You should write "Development" on that bit of the drawing.

If not already tried get someone push the cable in while you pull.

If its been uninhabited for more than 2 years (and remains uninhabited until after work starts) then the refurbishment should be rated 5% VAT. To get this rate you would need to hire a contractor to do all the work and supply materials. He should only charge you 5% VAT. There is no reclaim scheme. You cannot move in until after work starts (or it wont qualify). If its been empty 10 years the its zero rated.

To calculate the power being recovered by the mvhr you need to know the flow rate, external air temp, and the temperature of the air delivered to rooms by the mhrv. All of which can be measured.

Argos have similar for about £15. I'd take a trip and measure them.

Planning rules are pretty complicated. Vehicles don't need planning permission so if the vans remain mobile or at least capable of being moved you might escape the need for planning permission. However you might need planning permission to change the use of the site. Plots are generally hard to find and its recommended you find a plot first then see what size and style of house the planners will let you put on it rather than the other way around. Structurally you certainly couldn't just pile earth up against the side of a static caravan. It couldn't take the load. As above, its recommended that retaining walls over 1m high be designed by a structural engineer.