Temp

+1 In many areas you now need a wideband to get all the channels/MUX. However if you can use a group/narrow band they can work better (lower noise and more gain than a wideband).

Sounds like you got it sorted but just for info... usually a bigger aerial (higher gain) is better than a small(er) aerial and an amplifier. That's because amplifiers add their own noise. One issue is that a very high gain aerial can be very directional so very important to point it exactly right direction or you loose all the gain.

As understand it the government is concerned that old non working turbines might be abandoned as has happened in the USA. So planning grants normally have a planning condition requiring removal if it doesn't generate for six months. There is probably something similar in the PDR rules.

Nick - What is your outer skin? The other place we have some lead is on the top of some brick plinths/external window sills. Apparently that's an NHBC recommendation / anti frost spalling measure.

Some others here.. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p02q34z8

Summary of planning rules here.. https://www.thegreenage.co.uk/tech/planning-permission-for-wind-turbines/

When you connect them to a generator or pump they become a wind turbine :-) The ones in your original picture don't look that different to this type of vertical axis wind turbine. Smaller ones are sometimes used on boats.

I guess that would be possible but they will be a less efficient than a regular wind turbine of similar size. There may also be a planning issue.

I don't know about trays but I used lead flashing above windows in a timber clad building to prevent water getting in. It basically extends the membrane behind the cladding out over the head of the window.

An LCD TV might not be a bad idea. Some can play slideshows and video from a usb memory stick so you could have any image you like. If networked you might be able to display the real time view of say a beach in Hawaii or some other web can.

Reminds me of this YouTube video. Skip to about half way.

No. The duty is an amount in £. The tariff is the rate in % used to to calculate the duty. If you order something like a lorry load of bricks or timber the cost to you should be calculated as follows.. Total = [(Cost of goods + shipping + insurance) + duty] + VAT In addition there might be a fee (and VAT on the fee) from the customs broker (company that processes the goods through customs. For example they may have to store the goods while they contact you and collect your payment of duty and VAT).

As I understand it the UK is planning temporary tarrifs on a range of goods... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/temporary-rates-of-customs-duty-on-imports-after-eu-exit It says the tarrif will be zero on goods not listed. Couldn't find windows listed, nor bricks. As for VAT.. I believe the UK will charge VAT on goods arriving from the EU at the ports. So I believe you need to get EU suppliers to give you export prices or you will end up paying both EU and UK VAT. I'm guessing only UK VAT will be reclaimable under the self build reclaim scheme. The treatment of small parcels is different. Lots of info in here.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-for-businesses-if-theres-no-brexit-deal/vat-for-businesses-if-theres-no-brexit-deal

Yes welcome. Did you manage to avoid any awkward planning conditions? Next stop CIL exemption claim forms :-)

Some years ago when looking a for a flat to purchase as a buy-to-let an estate agent showed us a new build tiny bedsit. So cramped that three of us got in each others way. The whole place had just one window serving the living room/bed room. No window in kitchen or shower/WC. We couldn't see it being a good investment. We eventually found a two bedroom flat with shared garden for the same price about half a mile further out of town.

Here... https://www.buildingboards.co.uk/products/rcm-cemboard/ It says...

I think they may take into account your employment status. If you trade shares in your spare time you normally pay CGT. If you do it as your main occupation its likely to be income tax.

+1 If you don't have a nervous twitch you will after dealing with the planners.

Just a heads up... We only have 80mm of PIR insulation under our UFH. I now consider that a bare minimum and would put in more if building again. Perhaps 160mm PIR or 200mm EPS? See what others suggest.

The idea with a raft is that everything sits on it and its strong enough that it can bridge poor/made up ground, bit like a raft on water bridges between wave crests. Hence the walls must sit on the raft as well.

That will be because of the pool. He means good ground everywhere except where filling in the pool.

Small article in today's Times mentions planned changes to the way VAT is paid in the construction industry. Called "Reverse charged VAT" is says buyers will pay VAT direct to HMRC rather than to suppliers. Due to be introduced in October it is apparently aimed at reducing VAT fraud. Doesn't say if it applies to self builders.

Make sure you get your CIL exemption paperwork done before starting any work on site.

You dont have to officially start work for something to be zero rated. The guide VAT 708 just says the work must be "closely connected" with the construction of a new dwelling. See section 3.3.6 https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction It says it can be zero rated except in the case where. I think outline PP or full PP with some conditions not yet met might be enough. I would tell them its for a new dwelling that should be zero rated and ask for a new quote showing zero vat, see what they say.

Our water main diversion was zero rated.