Temp

Regarding disruption... The recent leaked government report talks about cross channel traffic taking many month to recover to between 50 and 70% of current levels. That's a massive reduction. We get huge queues even if a few trains or ferries have to be cancelled let alone 50%. It seems virtually certain that some traffic will have to be prioritised. I've no idea where building materials will come on the list but there are bound to be temporary shortages of some things perhaps for a year? Gove claimed the report was out of date. It was only three weeks old. I guess he had been watching Yes Minister.

I think its very difficult to predict every consequence of Brexit. However I think its clear that the advantages will take a longer to kick in than the disadvantages. The UK government sets import tarifs under WTO rules and has already published a list for post Brexit, https://www.gov.uk/guidance/check-temporary-rates-of-customs-duty-on-imports-after-eu-exit Many of these are zero. So I'm not expecting massive price increases due to UK tariff changes. The £ has already fallen and some of the fall maybe because people are now assuming it will be no deal - so it may or may not fall further, hard to tell. If you buy something from the EU that has to be specially delivered (eg a pallet not a posted parcel) the main change as I understand it will be to VAT. Currently if you buy from say Belgium you pay Belgian VAT(BTW) you don't pay UK VAT on arrival here. After Brexit that changes. The supplier should not charge Belgian VAT and you will have to pay UK VAT on arrival. You might want to ask for quotes "Delivered, duty and UK VAT paid" or be prepared for a call demanding VAT and a handling fee. Belgian companies sending stuff by post (eg parcels) have to register with HMRC and charge and process UK VAT. I bet some small companies only export to EU countries so will no longer ship to the UK. Others may want to but not be ready to process UK VAT. I'm pretty sure that if you pay Belgian VAT after Brexit it will no longer be reclaimable under the self build reclaim scheme. Any UK VAT you pay on arrival at a port should be reclaimable.

If I've understood your drawing correctly I believe thats fine. Its similar to ours but we only have two steps down where you have a flight. I note the stairs appear to be about as wide as the door. That might feel a bit narrow but it depends how wide your door is.

Two big "washers", one either side with a bolt. Perhaps loads of polyurethane based glue to prevent water being trapped between washers and barrow?

I have a 1.5 storey house with 200mm deep rafters, PIR between. I wouldn't do this again. Too hot in summer. I would probably build a warm roof with most of the insulation above the rafters. I have a shed that has a ventilated cavity between the cladding and insulation. This shed stays surprisingly cool in summer. I have a hunch that something like the following might be worth investigating... Tiles Ventilated void (eg vents at eaves and ridge) Membrane (vapour permeable) Multifoil insulation Rockwool between rafters PIR below rafters. Yes three different types of insulation.

The FT reports that our membership of the EU currently gives us preferred trading status with 16 of our 24 largest trading partners. Of these we have so far managed to persuade ONE (South Korea) to continue trading with us on the same terms we currently get. Countries like Japan and Canada revert to WTO rules as things stand. Canada has outright refused to continue trading with the UK on the same terms we currently enjoy as EU members. A UK cheese exporter on the news the other day said that the WTO tariff on cheese exported from the UK to Canada will be 250% (Two Hundred and Fifty Percent).

I had an oak "shed" door made and they used T&G boards. These expanded and having nowhere to go the whole door bowed until it looked pregnant. If T&G is used it shouldn't be fully seated. I had to run a saw down the joints to allow some movement.

In case not obvious, don't just put a 500ml bottle of inhibitor in. Calculate how much you need to achieve the recommended concentration. For Furnox F1 they recommend 0.5%. So for example on a 500L thermal store that could be 2.5L (FIVE 500ml bottles) depending on how the store is designed. Plus some for the water in the UFH pipes.

Google says they have a good telephone support line. I guess this doesn't work?... file -> save as -> then use drop down menu to change the file extension to .dxf or .dwg

Did your SE say anything about needing to line the foundation trenches with foam board? We had to do that on clay.

Google found.. http://ravensbyglass.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/satin-tech-sheet.pdf 4-14-4-14-4 argon filled satin glass in middle u-value 0.7

I think you could end up with a slippery/sticky mess that paints the road white when wet.

Thanks. Did check ASDA but for the tyres i was after they seem to be exactly the same price. PS. My 17 year old kids are on a £7 a month ASDA phone tariff. Bit of a pain to administer but otherwise OK.

If you need car tyres... Try the promo code "Flash10" at Black circles for 10% off. They currently have a headline offer of £40 off four tyres but if you only need two then try Flash10 which seems to give 10% off two tyres.

Perhaps you just need some form of grill upstream to stop the bigger branches etc reaching the pipe. Stock photo on this page.. https://www.alamy.com/a-netting-floating-boom-tied-to-a-grating-catches-polluting-plastic-image8244833.html

I'm using 400-450 lumen GU10 downlights with beam angles over 90 degrees (typically around 100-140 degrees depending on what I can get). I think they are on approx 1.2m centres so the pools of light overlap to eliminate shadows. I avoid 36 degree bulbs because you get uneven illumination and harder shadows even with them this close together. I always fit "warm white" bulbs but they are cooler than halogen. You soon get used to them.

If you have locks with a separate latch and lock bolt then perhaps you just need a micro switch to detect the position of the bolt and some wire? Bit fiddly to set up though.

There are similar concrete beam and insulated block systems... http://www.tetrisfloors.co.uk/beam-and-block/

800 lumens is about twice what we are using in a kitchen. Do they need to be that bright?

+1 Our planners wanted us to plant 60m of hedge and 5 trees. Got the vat back.

The main advantage of foam insulation over rockwool is that foam insulation (PIR, PUR) has a better thermal resistance per mm of thickness. So it makes sense to use foam where thickness is an issue. To my mind the thickness isn't usually an issue in a loft so that would favour rockwool on the floor of a loft rather than foam under it. The exception might be where it's very hard to get a sufficient depth of rockwool at the eaves of a sloping roof (while preserving ventilation above it). In that case a combination seems like a reasonable choice. You may/should also consider adding a vapour barrier to reduce risk of condensation in the loft, especially if the ventilation is inadequate.

Oops.

[Boast] I have a AS level in Technical drawing from 1979 :-) [/Boast] Sadly i've forgotten a lot of it.

I'm in a conservation area. Two years back I noticed a tree on our boundary was dead. This was one of a group mentioned on our tree survey. To remove a dead tree you don't need to submit a notification of tree works but I did anyway. The council have four weeks to respond. After four weeks I got someone to cut it down. Took about an hour. Two weeks later I get an email from the tree officer saying I can go ahead. I didn't tell him he was two weeks late.

PS. I recommend calling the bits of metal "Parts" or "Items"rather than "Sections" because a "section" on a drawing is normally a cross sectional view. When someone sees "Section 2" on a drawing they think its the view you would get if the part was cut along line 2.