Temp

Looks like clear glass with a coating on the underside? Might be difficult to match. I'm thinking put something like grey paper or tinfoil under the glass and fill above with 24 hour clear epoxy? Toothpick to get at any bubbles.

Somewhere I've read that you only need one open vented stack for every four or five houses these days. Cant find that in the Approved Docs but google found a reference here.. "Building Construction Handbook" https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=7eAhNzZW1goC&pg=PA846&lpg=PA846&dq=one+open+vented+stack+ever+four+dwellings&source=bl&ots=tK13FKNupg&sig=ACfU3U1pU0TMwSQa0xcSaUFx9tnojD06AA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjUto7_0qDlAhXSbsAKHfjgD10Q6AEwDnoECAcQAQ#v=onepage&q=one open vented stack ever four dwellings&f=false

They appear to have missed my substantial outbuilding but have got my chicken run which was built later and is just a fenced area. Pity I never met them. I would love to have asked them to GPS my boundaries :-)

Is the current location also adjacent to the original proposed development? I ask because I believe you are allowed to keep a site workers van on a building plot _or_ on adjacent land without planning permission. In which case there wouldn't have been a planning breech. If it's not adjacent I suspect the planners will argue the breech is only one of parking a caravan on agricultural land. They may argue your short stays dont amount to a continuous breech. You are allowed 28 days a year without PP. https://www.planningresource.co.uk/article/1209031/enforcement-q---dcp-section-45 I think they also have 10 years in cases where planning permission would be needed for a change of use (eg Agricultural to Residential or caravan park). I agree with @Sensus comment about seeking professional advice. Ideally before posting identifying information on internet forums.

I noticed that web site has the same one described as "Residential" rather than "insulated" for £27,890... https://www.quick-garden.co.uk/residential-log-cabins/residential-cabin-holland-7-5m-x-13-5m-25-x-44-66mm.html Virtually half price !

Just a heads up... Over the years there have been a number of dodgy companies operating in the log cabin market. Some people have lost money buying cabins from companies that are really just one man bands offering importing cabins. Note: I'm NOT suggesting there is anything wrong with the company who's web pages you posted photos of.

Another year and he'd be laughing.

We have a massive travertine "tray" that is set into the floor so the inside of the tray is flush with the floor but sides are about 30mm above floor level. It feels like a level access but can cope with an inch of water inside if we've got lazy and not cleaned the trap! If you decide to set the sides of the tray flush then I'd actually leave them a few mm proud so the door seal doesn't scrape on the floor tiles.

Thanks for that, I didn't know they had this fob.. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUFB1.html Pity the adapter itself is so expensive.

Best I could find was this one that recommends a 20mm gap rather than 18mm.. https://www.divapor.com/spares/showers/shower-door-seals/magnetic-shower-door-replacement-angled-seal.php Think it's also on Amazon, but on Amazon it doesn't mention the recommended gap.

We have a Eclisee with wood door. If you follow the instructions it goes fine. Watch out you don't overtighten the screws holding plasterboard to the frame. If they go in too far they can scratch the door.

Personally I think oak looks better with a silk finish rather than gloss.

Gap under the door?

Does your PP require you to get the bricks approved or use a particular brick? I wonder if you could argue a block actually meets the legal definition of a brick?

Brick slips from £15 to £28 per sqm... https://brickslips.co.uk/3-brick-slips Check they are frost safe?

Does the retaining wall lean a bit? Perhaps you could just stack bricks up against it and sell them on eBay later :-)

If you put 200mm insulation between 200mm rafters you really need counter battens to raise the main tile battens off the membrane. This is to allow water to run down the membrane and not pool above the tile battens causing them to rot. The alternative is to fit 150mm insulation and allow the membrane to sag between rafters forming a gap water can run down. Not all insulation and membrane manufacturers say they can be in contact. I believe Kingspan say one of their membranes can be installed in contact with insulation. We have something like 160mm or PIR in some parts of our roof and wish we had more. For some reason insulation at rafter level isn't as effective as at joist level. Perhaps because the rafters cause gaps or bridge the insulation? We get overheating in summer in "room in the roof" rooms even without significant glazing.

Ah ok. I see what you mean. I'd get the tiler back. Is the threaded part of the spout fixed to the spout? On ours it's a separate threaded tube that can be unscrewed from the spout to make it longer or replace it with a longer one.

I don't think it matters for the hot tap - just tighten the shroud up against the tile. For the spout just use a lot of PTFE on the threads and turn it until it's pointing in the right direction. Worse case it could be almost one full turn out from the wall so not "tight" against anything, however the water pressure in the spout is usually low so the PTFE should handle it. Our plumber didn't like the small gap on our bath spout and used a Dremel to grind back the travertine stone a little so he could turn it another turn. Personally I wouldn't have bothered. He made it look easy on travertine but I think some tiles would chip out.

You certainly need to convince the BCO to allow another door but ours was quite flexible. His view was that in rural areas disabled people would most likely come and go by car so if the parking space was nearest to the back or side door he was happy for one of those to be the part M door. If I build another house I plan to make all doors have a level access as it's just more convenient.

Before you install an accumulator you need to check that the problem really is the supply pipe to the house and not the pipework in the house. The pipework between the accumulator and the showers needs to be good or the accumulator wont help. If possible measure the pressure near where the main comes into the house while running the shower/bath. If that drops then the supply pipe is the problem. If the pressure stays reasonably high at that point then the problem is in the house.

Their installer should have checked tge flow rate before recommending and installing a mains pressure system. The problem could be the size of their supply pipe from the road to their house. However check that their stopcock(s) are fully open and no other restrictions or undersize pipes somewhere in the house. An accumulator helps when you have good static pressure but low flow rate. It works by filling slowly with water at whatever rate the main can deliver, then releasing it suddenly/more rapidly when you open a tap/shower. It needs to be correctly sized (bigger is better) or it may run out and revert to low flow, perhaps when a second person wants a shower immediately after the first. Check if it would be cheaper to have the main supply upgraded to a larger diameter pipe than fitting an accumulator - although I suspect not.

Looks like I've found a cheaper option... https://www.amazon.co.uk/eMylo-110V-240V-Wireless-Automation-Compatible/dp/B07JLQNHRH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Emylo+smart+alexa&qid=1570750464&s=diy&sr=1-4 Its a relay with three ways to control it... 1) Manual wall switch 2) Wifi/Alexa 3) RF keyfobs All for £26. Not quite sure about the packaging of the unit - exposed wires - will need to find a box but no problem.

Thanks for that. Looks like their socket or plug in adaptor ( https://aone.auroralighting.com/ProductDetails/AU-A1ZBPIA) can be used with their remote ( https://aone.auroralighting.com/ProductDetails/AU-A1ZBRC ) although might be a tad expensive at around £40 each.

Will do. Just to clarify... It could be a plug in adaptor, doesn't have to be a face plate.