Temp

Thinking back to my physics O-level... Concrete has about 2-2.4 times the density of water so 200mm of EPS could float even with 85-100mm of concrete on top.

Here are the filaments I've tried.. ZIRO Fluo orange PLA (nice bright orange) had two reels. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075M47QR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 SUNLU Black PLA+ (The "+" means its a modified PLA, not sure if there is any advantage though) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B073PB9XWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 AMZ3D White PETG https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072JCPJRJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Rigid Ink Black PETG https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0164CNSAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 All of the above have worked ok for me. Not always first time. I've had to experiment with the setting many many times. I keep a notebook and try to write down settings that work. I've also tried these filled filaments. The results were interesting but I cant say they were stunning. Perhaps more work needed on my part. Haven't purchased a full reel yet. Formfutura Bronze filled PLA (sample only) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IBMXNWU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron filled PLA (sample only) https://shop.3dfilaprint.com/proto-pasta-magnetic-iron-175mm-samples-1495-p.asp?_=&variantid=1500 Have previously posted some photos of prints from the above. It can be tricky getting some filaments to stick to the bed and not move about which wrecks the print. You can adjust the bed temperature, head gap, print speed, height at which fan turns on etc etc. I've tried various internet tricks and covering the glass bed with this blue tape seems to help. https://www.screwfix.com/p/scotchblue-masking-tape-41m-x-50mm/8177x?ds_kid=39700029430360586&ds_rl=1249416&ds_rl=1241690&ds_rl=1245250&ds_kid=39700029430360586&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249475&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2vjuBRCqARIsAJL5a-JIJ9YCmdON9oqo72yvwGl6Ur3ghanoUmDMhNggR0QWQYN8UhxvbM8aAuINEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I have also used the "Pritstick method". Also works but takes longer than tape.

Yes. The slicer (eg Cura) estimates length and weight. Not sure how accurate it is as I've never checked. Think you will be surprised how much you can print with a 1kg reel of PLA. Note that filled filaments (steel powder etc) are denser so 1kg is shorter. Exotic filaments can be hard to print with. You can get issues with warping, clogging, lumpy bits etc. I can't say I've been overly impressed with the few I've tried. Nothing like as good as suggested on youtube. Perhaps it's me. I would try to get samples before investing a lot of money on a full reel of something expensive. PLA is the easiest to use. PEEK PETG is worth trying next if you need stronger prints without the agro of ABS. Edit: Sorry I meant PETG not PEEK.

OT: massive foreign hgv has just driven into the tiny car park I'm in by mistake. It's about two containers long! Too long to turn corners. Will have to reverse out the way it came. Mad.

Ive had several different makes via Amazon. Mainly because there are usually at least a few reviews. Will try and post a list of what I've used when I get home.

Not familiar with that one but looks OK. I recommend finding a good user forum for it and asking for set up tips and tricks, plus any upgrades they recommend, that sort of thing.

Celotex say 120-150 kPa in here depending on version. https://www.just-insulation.com/downloads/celotex-rigid-insulation/celotex-certification/bba-certificate-flooring-14-nov.pdf

I can't answer that. I had a quick look in Approved Doc A.... https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/429060/BR_PDF_AD_A_2013.pdf But its not easy to find where its mentioned. One bit implies 8m.

Re visibility splay.. Unless its a very large plot its unlikely the visibility splays fit within it. The next best thing is for them to fit within the highway verge. Get a decent plan and draw the visibility splay on it. Check who owns the land under it. If its not part of the highway verge you should get the vendor to sort out the visibility splay. If the vendor owns the land under the visibility splay then speak to your solicitor about giving you a covenant over that land. It might require changes to both the plot deeds and the vendors deeds. If the vendor doesn't own the land then beware. The vendor should get the necessary covenants in place from the owner. To do this he may have to pay the land owner. This could be a lot of money because the owner knows you can't build house without it. In effect the land owner can hold you to ransom. Don't let this issue put you off unless the vendor is unable to give/get you the covenant needed. However it would/could be risky to purchase it without it being sorted in writing

Can you raise the doors?

I think building regs require walls over a certain length to have a pier, pillar or wall at right angles. Think that's about 11m but check part A.

Unfortunately I think BS 5837 recommends no topsoil removal within the tree protection area. Google found... https://www.trees.org.uk/Trees.org.uk/files/b6/b6a05a2e-ec86-4d23-aa92-42fdec8d67c0.pdf See page 2 above and below the subheading "Development near trees". Later on it proposes a solution. We had a planning condition requiring us to construct a permeable driveway. Later the planners told us that the hardcore we had used for a temporary surface wasn't considered permeable but we werent going to rip it all up. Since only a small part was under the trees we just ignored it and put gravel on top. So we are in breech of our planning condition. That was 12 years ago. Tree is still fine and the planners never mentioned it again.

Every hour sounds about right to me. Just a heads up.. Avoid cutting through a log into the ground. Dirt/soil really blunts chainsaw blades quickly.

If there isn't another stopcock then might have to resort to a pipe freezing kit. Screwfix sell sprays but you have to work fast or you can hire a powered box of tricks.. https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/pipe-freezing/cat9530001?cm_sp=managedredirect-_-handtools-_-pipefreezing https://www.hss.com/hire/p/pipe-freezer-12-42mm-240v

Yes was a bit concerned but it looks fine on the Honeywell regulator. The tap connector I have also came with rubber washers.

In the end I remembered that the thread on a 15mm compression fittings was 1/2" BSP so a much better option was a pressure reducer with compression fittings (removed) and a pair of these tap adaptors.. https://www.toolstation.com/jg-speedfit-straight-tap-connector/p13693

Top marks for lateral thinking. Perhaps some internal insulation would also use up the floor space and might be needed anyway if building control get involved?

Normally they are preset to 3bar but I guess I should check.

Thanks. I'm adding a pressure reducer into an existing plastic pipe so think I'll go with this one.. https://www.toolstation.com/pressure-reducing-valve/p94502 And a pair of adaptors.. https://www.toolstation.com/hep2o-male-adaptor-brass-socket/p54535

Is it ok to run Hep2O plastic pipe into compression fittings like this designed for copper? https://www.toolstation.com/pressure-reducing-valve-and-gauge/p11827 With pipe inserts obviously. I know there is a pressure reducer with 1/2" brass ports and 1/2" brass to HEP20 adaptors.

Make sure the box is secure as building sites and empty houses tend to attract thieves.

Perhaps you need an app which has a floor plan of your house with all the lights on it. I'm no programmer but it sounds like an application for one of the "visual" programming languages?

What is the planning status of the second extension? I suspect the previous owner might have needed planning permission either because it extends too far to the rear of the house or because more than half the original garden has now been built on? Might be worth checking the planning portal on-line to see if PP exists just so you know what you might be getting into. If they didn't get permission a neighbour could cause you some trouble by complaining. If built more than 4 years ago the planners can't make you knock it all down as it's too late for them to initiate enforcement action.

If you are buying them and fitting yourself I think your best bet is not to ask for the VAT off as they will get confused. Just ask for their best price/discount and reclaim the VAT as normal.

One thing to think about is the beam angle. For some reason the world seems to be standardising on 36 degrees for GU10 bulbs. I find 90 or 100 degrees is much better but they are harder to find (BnQ have some). You get a bit more glare but fewer shadows and more even lighting.