Temp

Did the Architect say why he doesn't think it will meet Building Regs? Is it a structural issue or an insulation issue or ? If the roofing felt is old it might not be vapour permeable like modern membranes. That may mean a 50mm ventilated void is required between the felt and insulation. That might not leave enough depth for insulation ? If that's the issue there are likely to be ways around it. Perhaps by putting more insulation elsewhere. Ask him what he thinks the issue is. Edit: Ah I see your SE thinks it's not strong enough.

I think B&B would work well but might be a bit more complicated. You would probably need to build walls for each end of the beams to rest on. The wall near the house could be just blocks. The one furthest from the house probably brick and block or block clad with timber. Once done any paving or tiling on top would be pretty bomb proof.

I don't think our BCO looked at it. I think in theory we have about 3" of fall over about two meters of pipe but because the flexi lays on the floor most of the run is flat. Hasn't been a problem.

I don't think PP is needed in the garden provided some rules are met.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/solar-panels/planning-permission-stand-alone-solar-equipment-panels-not-on-a-building-but-within-the-grounds-of-a-house-or-a-block-of-flats But in a field its a different matter. Pretty sure a full application would be required.

I sympathise. The planners speant a year telling me the house had to be right at the front of the plot where its too narrow. Then we found a letter in which they told the previous owner that a house "further back might be better". You can try and point out the inconsistency to the planners but if that doesn't help you can point out the favourable opinion and improvements at appeal.

We have a free standing bath. The waste pipe comes out of the wall at floor level. We used flexible pipe to connect to the trap on the underside of the bath. We actually used more flexible pipe than necessary so the whole bath can be moved away from the wall for cleaning. Our taps are wall mounted.

I'd compact the ground and the MOT in two layers.

Sorry I don't have any info on the tester. I assume the coating is metal based so it's slightly conductive. It should be on the indoor side. Some of our windows have a dozen small panes/lights and the BCO tested every one of them. If one didn't pass he opened the window and tested the outside. That's how we knew a few were in the wrong way around.

I can't think of a reason why that wouldn't work. Some drawings show the strap on top of the rafters and fixed to the brickwork not "built in". Perhaps use a strap with a longer vertical section so the fixings are lower down the wall?

Low battery is usually a single chirp or beep every 15-30 seconds. Alarm is full blown, you ain't sleeping through this, continuously sounding and loud. If its a low battery they usually take PP9 / 9V batteries or they have a 10 year battery that you can't replace. If its the latter Screwfix or Toolstation will normally have suitable replacement. If its a real alarm I'd turn off anything that has a flame (boiler, gas oven/ hob, gas fire, candles etc) and I'd get a Gas Safe Registered Engineer (used to be called Corgi) to look at it. If there is more than one possible source perhaps ask the Tennant which they were using when it went off.

When it starts modulating down prematurely what actually happens to the the flow and return temperature? Think the return temperature should give clues.

How old is the system? When you say it's always done it do you mean since built it or since you bought the house? My first thought is the system has a slot of sludge in it. Possibly no or not enough corrosion inhibitor? This could explain both the "air" and inconsistent flow. If that's a possibility I'd look at draining and refilling the system, turning it on to stir it up and repeat until the water is reasonably clear. Then dose it with the right amount of Fernox F1 or similar. Read the instructions. It's likely to need several bottles. Helps if you can measure the volume of water when you drained out earlier. Putting too much inhibitor in doesn't usually hurt. You can also get test kits to check the concentration. Other possibilities could be an intermittent of failing pump? Undersize or faulty expansion vessel normally caused water out of the PRV.

We had an IBC on our allotment, it had a metal frame but I doubt I could be buried. The plastic part was more flexible than a watering can.

You could ask an estate agent what they think it adds to the value of your house. Although they will probably charge a fee. Don't invite the neighbour to attend when they visit!

Here's a really long shot... has the bathroom light been replaced with an LED bulb? Sometimes LED glow faintly when off due to capacitive coupling between live and switched live. I wonder if this capacitive coupling is enough to fool the mvhr into thinking the bathroom light is always on so its alway in boost mode? Probably not, but if you have an old filament bulb might be worth trying just in case.

What tends to happen with mvhr is the bearings eventually fail but they can sometimes be replaced cheaply yourself if you are mechanically minded. However my guess is its working and stuck in boost mode or just set too high. Presumably there is no obvious humidity sensor? Sometimes they are in a duct. Perhaps ask a few neighbours if they have any experience with the units or who they use to fix them?

Found a troubleshooting guide here.. https://www.polypipe.com/sites/default/files/hrx_troubleshooting_guide.pdf Suggests cleaning the filters if it's noisy. It also refers to a normal/boost mode and other possibilities. We have a different system and the filters need cleaning about every 2-3 months. Ours can be washed under a tap.

+1 I'd find something that can't rot (perhaps half bricks and broken roof tiles?) and wedge between the postcrete and the underside of the concrete barge boards. Do both ends then pull out the wood and random packing they used. Chuck buckets of topsoil to cover up the half bricks. Bit of a pain.

You probably won't need an AP in every bedroom. Typically one per floor or perhaps two per floor if its a big/long house. One of them might be your ISP supplied modem. Wired AP for me. We have three second hand Draytek AP on different frequencies. Forgot to mention I also have a AP in an outbuilding providing coverage in the garden when it's summer time. That uses Ethernet over the mains to connect to the modem. Works well.

https://www.yahoo.com/news/house-had-perfect-energy-rating-130000797.html My house had the perfect energy rating – until I got a heat pump Homeowner’s prized 100pc score is slashed by ‘tick-box’ assessment Not sure what happened, did the points system change between him building it and changing to a heat pump?

I'm sure spray foam done correctly is very good but Im not sure mortgage companies recognise the good from the bad. That will probably depend on the roof membrane. Is it vapour permeable or not. Remember another reason for the gap is to allow the membrane to drape so it's not pushed against the underside of tile battens. That's to allow any water blown under tiles to run down and not pool above the battens increasing the chances of rot. Sometimes the gap can be eliminated if the membrane is vapour permeable and counter battens raise the tile battens off the membrane.

Do the title deeds from either property say who is responsible for maintenance of the wall/fence? They can be sent to you by email for a few £ each from the (real) land registry website... https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/land-registry Normally the responsibility for a retaining wall belongs to the property who's land is being retained unless there is something else in the deeds or in writing. However if he successfully claimed for damage to the wall that probably means your insurance company believes your fence damaged his wall ... Eg the wall is his. I think you need to check the title deeds and possibly any planning permission he might have obtained in the past. Do they show a new retaining on his plans? You might consider writing to the insurance company asking them for details of the previous settlement with the neighbour. Was it conditional on him repairing his wall? How wide is the gap between your building and the boundary? Do you know how deep the foundations are of your parents house?

Ideally get all the pipes in the floor but that sounds difficult in this case. It looks like you could run the basin waste in the floor if the trimmer doesn't go too far to the left? As fir the shower.. Are the joists deep enough to put a hole through them? Otherwise is it possible to drop down from the trap through the floor and connect into the stack on the left below the joists. I guess that would mean boxing in the room below.

We went for lots of loops but think we over did it. If building again I'd keep separate loops for each bedroom and each upstairs bathroom all on individual programmable stats. It can be nice having a warm tiled bathroom floor even when no heat is needed in the bedroom. I'd eliminate/merge quite a few loops downstairs. People leave doors open and the MVHR probably helps balance out the rooms. We have a manifold and freezers in the utility room which keep it warm without a loop.

If you are using a builder it's normal to subtract any agreed retention (5-10%) from each stage payment so you arrive at the end still owing this agreed amount. At least that's what my QS said.