Temp

Self builders can reclaim that 5%.

I don't think you can use the self build VAT reclaim either but you probably know that.

I haven't looked at your plans in detail but we used two remote manifolds. We wanted very high flow rate showers and ran 28mm from our thermal store to a home made manifold near each of the main bathrooms. Then 22mm from there to the showers. Regarding return loop pipes.. think about hot taps where you want hot water to appear quickly and run the return from as close to those as possible. We have a basin in a WC and the return pipe connects about 8ft away from the tap. Even that's too far away from the tap. You've washed your hands before the hot comes out. The return on the kitchen tap is right under the sink at that's much better. Some people put PIR sensors in remote WC so the loop pump starts when they enter rather than running all the time. You can also put timers on them so they don't run at night if you want Builders don't insulate hot pipes and the return nearly well enough or even at all in some places. Consider taller stand offs to space pipes away from walls/floors a bit further than normal so you can get more insulation around them?

I think the spec is +10% to -6% of this nominal value. This means the voltage can range between a maximum of 253 V (+10%) and a minimum of 216.2 V (-6%). Does your smart meter have a way to log the voltage there because that's probably where they will measure it? How about borrowing a load of fan heaters from friends and family to see if you can replicate it in the daytime? Probably need 5 * 3kW heaters. Don't put them all on the same ring!

Regarding materials purchased after completion. I have heard of people including things in their reclaim after completion but this suggests it's not allowed.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/5eb15437-c1a9-ef11-95f6-000d3a8737b3

Any problems cite this.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/dbbf039b-62ec-ee11-a81c-6045bd0d8bd7

Remember the CIL rules preclude starting work before you have formally claimed the exemption on the right forms.

Think I better post its full reply..

I asked ChatGPT and it said ... You would hope the value at completion is more than the cost to build so that might be a better choice if it allowed. However ChatGPT sometimes makes up replies so you should seek professional advice. Reminder: you only have 60 days from the sale to report it and pay up but i believe you can submit revised figures later.

Think you need to check they were just moved not accidentally swapped?

+1 on the roof. Roof complexity can add a lot to the cost.

You said its a breathable membrane (aka vapour permeable) so I don't think its a problem not having a ventilated air gap. Especially if there is a vapour barrier on the inside. Perhaps check what the membrane manufacturer says. Are there counter battens above the membrane? The membrane shouldn't really press up against the underside of the tile/slate battens. Should be allowed to drape.

Do you know what sort of things he wants to print? The easiest filament to print is PLA. Works for most things but it has a low(ish) melting point so its not suitable for things that will be left in cars on very hot days or in the engine compartment! They are unlikely to melt but can warp if they get hot while under load. That said I used it to print my metal detector above so its a very usable filament. ABS and other higher temperature filaments are harder to print well and you typically need a more expensive enclosed printer to minimise draughts. In between is a whole range of filaments like PETG which can be printed on most basic printers. In short, if he has a hobby that needs high temperature parts then perhaps look for an enclosed model that can do ABS but otherwise a printer that can do PLA and PETG will be fine. There is a bit of a learning curve to 3D printing. The big one is getting your prints to stick to the bed of the printer and not come off during printing. Most printers used a heated bed to help with this. I use a toughened glass plate on top of the heated plate and 3DLac spray. Some filaments stick too well. Plenty of other approaches out there. Most important thing is adjusting/levelling the print bed so the initial gap between the nozzle and the bed is right. The optimum gap varies with filament material. Some printers have auto bed levelling which can be an advantage.

Once it's all sorted and working for a month or so don't forget to put corrosion inhibitor like Fernox in it. Follow the instructions on the bottle regarding concentration as you will likely need more than one bottle. You can estimate volume from length and bore of UFH.

As I recall there are two families of sealer, think it's acid and non acid? Someone will remember which is better.

Its difficult to know if you should stir things up. One option might be to ask the Chairman of the Planning Committe to remind members that if they have submitted a private objection to an application before its even discussed by the Committee then this could be considered predetermination. You could do that anonymously. Otherwise I guess you could refer to the objection and ask the chair to clarify if Mr X will be participating in the decision making process as a member of the Committe or as a private individual?

I asked ChatGPT...

Seems to work on my phone...

Yeah the biodiversity stuff is more work. I'd suggest trying to find one from a similar application.

Can't comment on CAR but the landscaping plan shouldn't be too hard to put together and get approved. Just mark up a site plan. Normally you write "Tree A" or "Hedge B" on the plan then on a separate "Planting schedule" you list each one in a table...."Tree A to be a standard size xyz species" or "Hedge B to be two rows of native hedge plant (whips) planted 60cm apart and protected from rabbits by plastic spirals". That sort of thing. As its a planning condition any VAT paid on trees can be reclaimed if there is a landscaping plan.

Yeah that's just wrong. Should apply the adhesive to the wall and remove excess with a notched trowel held at near 90 degrees to the wall. This maximises the height of the adhesive ridges. When the tile is pressed on the ridges of adhesive spread out filling the valleys so you end up with fairly high % coverage. Not 100% though as that would use up all the depth adjustment available. Some tiles or stone need to be back buttered (as well) with a thin flat layer of adhesive.

I use a notched trowel and a straight block of wood to level tiles with neighbours in two directions. Reckon I could do better than your photo and I'm not a professional.

Looks good. I think I would have moved the tiles about half a tile left or right to eliminate the thin cuts.

That's ok but the mortgage still needs to be secured against the correct bit of land. There can sometimes be issues with the land registry if you split land but want to own both plots. Depends if there are any covenants or easements.

Ask the surveyor to comment. How can he not notice 25mm over 1m.