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Planning Permission doesn't help him. PP only means its acceptable as far as planning policies are concerned. Its quite possible you can get PP but not be able to build for a dozen other reasons. These days drainage can be a show stopper eg Soakaways don't work on clay and the Water Co won't allow you to put surface water into the sewer. Unfortunately there is no penalty for not complying with the PWA and nobody to enforce compliance. It would be down to you to go to court and try and get an injunction which is difficult and expensive. As I understand it judges frequently allow overhangs to continue and award you tiny damages. Once walls have been started it gets expensive for your neighbour to fix the problem so chances are they won't do anything if walls are already going up. Perhaps too late for you but it's always best to discuss plans with a neighbour at the outset. Hint you are likely to build your own extension so you need to figure out a solution that works for both of you before the walls are set out.

Perhaps check the planning file for your house/estate. Sometimes the planners want a sample submitted. There might be a letter from the builder telling the planners what he's going to use, or take a drive around and see if you can find some other house that has an extension an ask them if they worked it out.

Did you dig a test pit to check out the foundation depth of the main house?

+1 Soakaways are meant to be a minimum distance of 5m from the house.

Possibly Corian ? If it's that it's quite expensive, lots more than Travertine.

Planning Permission is required if you don't deal with rainwater run off on site. So if not permeable you will likely need a linear drain to a soakaway to stop water running onto the road/pavement. In many areas you can't put surface water into the sewer.

Remember the opening part must be a minimum height above the floor to meet Building Regs (fall from height). Think it's 800mm but check.

Is the timber treated? Can be difficult to glue well to that. Otherwise Id use a polyeurathane wood glue which foams up to fill any voids.

Google "for joist repair plates" or "Bower beams" https://www.permagard.co.uk/bower-beams-large?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20104758639&gbraid=0AAAAAD6l7u6eYbKpQcQBXyc85Smq5MoS8&gclid=CjwKCAjw87XBBhBIEiwAxP3_Axxih9ZPj7neGI8nFscH233n-kk6VjP3GPKyrL0vkQGshG4fCttAOhoCbzMQAvD_BwE https://www.preservationshop.co.uk/product-category/timber-treatment/timber-repair-systems/

Can you add a tie(s) at floor level?

All I can see is something wrong with the very top row of tiles on the lefthand side.

The planning system has a few things like that. A wind farm can argue they won't make significant noise to get permission then object to new houses nearby on the grounds of noise.

I would ask an expert to comment on the enforceability of the covenant as it's not uncommon for the wording to be faulty or for it to expire after a sale. If said expert says it's still valid you may have to approach the council. That could go either way. They might refuse or agree to remove it but for a fee. They might insist they will only remove it if you build an affordable house or who knows. If it was discovered after the house is built a court might decide you should split the profit that their agreement provides. It would be hard to sell with a covenant on it.

Did they mean it wasn't on the address database? You can fix that.

I noticed on page 59 of the install manual this diagram has a "buffer" zone valve output. Is your valve connected to that? or to the DHW output?

I'm not familiar with this particular system but.. It sounds like its expecting the heating zone valve to be a separate valve rather than both CH and DHW via the same valve. If there isnt a way to assign the one valve output to both CH and DHW then you might have to connect both outputs to the same valve electrically. That might need relays to isolate the two outputs to prevent the output of one feeding back into the other.

Just lower that end. The difference over 12m won't be significant. As others have said you can go steeper.

Sorry but... a) You may not be able to reclaim the VAT. There is a difference between zero rated for VAT and exempt from VAT... The eventual sale or long lease (over 21 years?) of a house is zero rated so your input VAT (the VAT on the build cost) can be reclaimed. However rent is exempt from VAT and you cannot reclaim input VAT in that case. Many developers have come unstuck when they found they couldn't sell a house(s) and decided to rent them out instead. I think there might be ways around this, perhaps if the house is "sold" to a company you set up before it's first rented out? That might have other consequences. Seek advice. See also... https://www.bishopfleming.co.uk/insights/vat-consequences-interim-rental-new-residential-property https://www.macfarlanes.com/what-we-think/2017/build-to-rent-vat-issues/ b) You will be liable for the CIL if you don't live in it as your principle residence for 3 years. I don't think splitting/not splitting the land will make a difference. The issue is the house will have planning permission for it to be "separately occupied" and when rented out it will most likely be classed as separately ococcupied, rather than occupied by you. Tenants also have rights in this regard. It might be different if this was just a bedroom in an outbuilding and the renter shared the kitchen in your house or similar. I don't think any councils exempt "holiday homes" from the CIL if that's how you were going to market it. These days many charge double council tax on them. c) Your mortgage company may also have an issue with this. They tend to have different rules/products on lending for owner occupiers compared to "investment properties" such as build-to-rent. Afraid it's all a bit of a minefield. Perhaps you should decide to build this house for yourself and live in it for some years. Would make life a lot simpler.

I wonder if adding copper wire along the top edge of the panel would be enough?

Range of different SS bases here... https://www.speedyfixings.com/post-supports/adjustable-elevated-post-bases/ We opted for brick base, with a 22mm SS locating pin...

Looks like the soil is clay? This can shrink and crack quite a lot.

Check the gates have free movement as any binding or rubbing on the ground is magnified by leverage. Can massively increase the motor current which is normally limited to protect it.

+1 on the 350mm wide blocks. Just check your bricks are 65mm bricks as there are several standard sizes. That way 65 + 10mm mortar = 75mm then 3*75 = 225mm. The blocks will 215+10=225mm. And check this is all consistent with your finished floor level. If this is a new house now is a good time to think about Part M and level access at the front door. In some cases it's possible to avoid having an obvious ramp.

Don't start on site until the CIL exemption is granted in writing or you can lose it. Not worth the risk.

Not sure there is a general rule. If I remember correctly 3 courses of brick = 1 block = 225mm. So perhaps go for 3 blocks on the inner leaf, 2 blocks and 3 bricks on the outer leaf. But does that get your DPC to 150mm above ground level? I think 225mm of cavity below the DPC is meant to be kept empty. So only the bottom two courses of blocks can be foundation blocks (without cavity).