Temp

I think it might be to stop a developer building a house, then just before fitting the front door they sell it to Mr Smith and agree the builder is actually building a self build for Mr Smith. They could split the CIL saving between them. Something like that. Requiring all the paperwork at the outset stops this.

The DT4 appears to be capable of either mains power with battery backup or just battery operation. The two outputs A an B do appear to be volt free. So based on what you said I think that ones OK. It does appear to be a bit simple. For example I don't think you can program it to drop the temperature a few degrees at night or while out at work but I don't know if thats appropriate for ASHP systems.

After some info/advice on breaker curves and/or soft start/in-rush limiting.. Our local village hall is having issues with its IR electric heaters tripping at switch on. There are 6 heaters each on their own C16 30mA RCBO. I don't currently know the wattage of each heater but it looks like they have 6 elements in each so I'm assuming they are quite powerful units. My background is in electronics rather than electrical engineering so I've just been asked to "translate" what the electrician is saying when they can get him to visit next time. For the moment I'm assuming they are tripping due to inrush current rather than Earth leakage but will ask if he's checked that. The wiring doesn't look too old. It looks like last time he visited he switched one of the RCBO for a B20. That one seems to be OK but three others on C16 are tripping. As I understand it.. C curve trip between 5 and 10 times rated current within 1 second. So a C16 trips between 80 and 160 A. B curve trip between 3 and 5 times rated current between 1 and 5 seconds. So a B20 trips between 60 and 100A. Q1: So tentatively it sounds like the issue is the duration of the inrush current rather than the magnitude of the inrush current? Q2: The whole lot are on one 100A RCD (I think) so I suspect he can't switch them all to B20 because 6 x 20A = 120A. They are normally all on at once so can't apply diversity? Or am I talking bollocks 🙂 Q3: Would it be reasonable to try 6 x B16 instead of C16 as they tolerate overload for a bit longer or am I misunderstanding how they work? Have heard conflicting info from the Village Hall committee. One said the electrician was considering adding in-rush current limiting at £25 to £100 per heater, but another added "or rewiring". I think each heater is on a 2.5mm^2 radial. Part clipped, part loose in the roof and part in metal conduit. I think a 2.5mm^2 radial is typically limited to 16-20A. Any suggestions for how to diagnose the problem ? Do electricians carry a fancy meter that can measure in-rush peak durations ? I suspect not.

+1 to what @DannyT said about temperatures. They can/should also use an additive in the mortar. Don't let them use washing up liquid. I forget what the correct stuff is called but it's not expensive. You could buy it for them if necessary. They should also cover up new/green work overnight.

I think he's forgotten. We have our kitchen sink on an interior wall. Builder ran 110mm through the foundations and up through the floor. Adaptors down to 40mm.

3bar is around the pressure at which the PRV will open so I'm inclined to think there is an issue with the expansion vessel. Faulty, not pumped up enough or too small.

I've used one of these T201 for a few years but it's GSM so needs a pay as you go SIM. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126282422240 You can set alarm thresholds or interrogate it to ask the temperature. Has outputs so you can connect to heating system or fan heater (I think).

See reply by @ProDave Plan ahead to make the join work.

Sorry to contradict but I think they can put foundations on your land.. https://www.partywalladvice.com/2010/01/27/can-my-neighbour-project-his-footings-over-the-boundary-without-my-consent/ You can try and tell them that it's not necessary because they can build "Eccentric Foundations" (egwhere the wall doesn't sit in the middle of the foundations.).

Some possibilities.. 1) Once a Pressure Relief Valve opens once they have a tendency to leak and let water out too easily at a lower pressure than its rated for. The more it leaks the more easily it leaks. Not sure why? Perhaps they are sensitive to a bit of grit or scale in the water. I've seen it a few times. 2)The Expansion Vessel could be faulty allowing the pressure to increase too much when the system heats up. Monitor the pressure and see what happens as it heats up. Perhaps check the valve on the Expansion vessel. When pressed air should come out not water. 3) The filling loop could be letting water into the system when it's meant to be closed causing over pressure. 2 or 3 could cause the PRV to open then it sticks open due to 1).

+1 Tiles and flashing should collect all the water. Membrane is just a backup.

This link is talking about the consequences of renting out a new property (instead of selling it) on the VAT you pay or reclaim when building it. I don't know if the HMRC Information sheet referred to below is still current. It probably doesn't apply if you intend all along to rent rather than sell. There might be a way around it by selling the property to another company you set up to rent it out. The sale is zero rated rather than exempt and that can make a difference. Seek advice on this issue. https://www.bishopfleming.co.uk/insights/vat-consequences-interim-rental-new-residential-property Quote.. With the recent slowdown of the housing market, many developers are considering interim rental of new residential units, to generate revenue pending finding buyers. In this article we explore the VAT consequences of this, and ways to mitigate the VAT cost. Where a housing developer has constructed new houses or flats, or converted non-residential property into dwellings, and they are intended for sale, the VAT incurred on the development can be recovered in full (except some fit-out costs like appliances on which the VAT is blocked). The VAT in question is often VAT on the land or property if incurred at purchase, and the legal and professional fees etc. This can amount to significant amounts of VAT. For VAT purposes, interim rental represents a change of use of the property from the intended zero-rated sale, to exempt rental. Exempt use does not give a right to recovery of related input VAT. This could potentially result in clawback to HMRC of all the VAT recovered. However, in the last slowdown in 2008 HMRC recognised this could produce an unfair outcome, and issued a VAT Information Sheet saying that where the developer retains an intention to sell the properties, there should be a fair and reasonable adjustment to reflect both the temporary exempt use and the intended sale. This policy has been included in HMRC’s current internal guidance so should remain available to use. In most cases it should result in a smaller VAT clawback and can result in no adjustment if the amount is small enough to be below ‘De Minimis’ levels. However, the amounts can be complex to calculate, depending on factors such as the length of the interim rental period and expected sales value, both of which may not be known or difficult to evidence. Another option to consider is whether the new residential properties could be sold to a group company prior to the group company renting them out. For VAT purposes this can fix the zero-rated first sale of the property by the developer, and secure the VAT recovery on its development costs, but needs to be considered alongside wider commercial, legal and tax implications including SDLT and Corporation Tax etc. If you are considering interim rental of new residential property pending sale and would like to explore your options, please get in touch with our VAT team.

Beware if it's a build to rent. My understanding is that letting is exempt from VAT so you cannot reclaim input VAT. It's a little known issue I'll try and post a link in a few mins.

Sorry i don't have more details other than what's in this vid..

Isn't that why they have (had?) two sections on the claim form? I think one was for receipts that didn't itemise the VAT. The VAT is then calculated once at the bottom of the form? Edit: Oh I see someone mentioned this already.

Is that the electrical supply for the outside light running along in conduit? If I zoom in on the outside photo there appears to be vertical lines where the light is? As if the internal wall is there rather than where your red line is?

Is this work being done on a house that is and has been empty for 2 or 10 years? Eg so that it qualifies for reduced VAT? If not then I agree you will have to pay the VAT You can't buy the materials without VAT yourself. They can't buy the materials and sell them to you without VAT (if VAT registered). Being VAT registered allows all companies to reclaim VAT. Next time you buy a dishwasher ask the shop if they will knock the VAT off and see how it goes 🙂

All I can suggest is that in any new application you address the errors that you think might come up again. I mean without actually referring to the previous report if that's possible. Just work then into the Design and Access Statement or similar. I suppose it depends what the errors were. If it's something like the history of the site then write your own history.

I hate to suggest l it but I think I would get a planning consultant involved. It's possible you only needed the planning application to cover the retaining wall and those areas raised more than 150/300mm. I'm not certain but they might argue planning isn't required to lower the top area as it's permitted development.

I would temporarily disconnect power to the porch light, ideally some distance away in the house. See if problem goes away. PS Not just the live but neutral as well.

If you are insulating the outside I would go for.. Insulation Roof membrane Battens vertical Boards Use insect mesh top and bottom to stop mice etc getting up the batten cavity. I would line the inside with a vapour barrier and plasterboard or OSB if you want to fit shelves. What's the building standing on? If you have an oversized concrete base already I would raise it up on 1 or 2 courses of engineering bricks with a DPC on top. If you like you can extend the battens and cladding down over the brick leaving a >1" gap between cladding and slab.

Is it really working as a direct IR system (heating people direct) or is it actually heating up the building and furniture then the air and that's why people feel warm? How warm do rooms get? If your room air temperature is getting to say 21 -22c then it's no cheaper than any direct electric system and in the UK that's historically three times the cost of mains gas. I suppose if it's small and well insulated the absolute running cost would be small whatever system you use.

Yes appeal. Point out that you application is for much less than the normal 50% of the original garden allowed under PDR. Also cite recent applications by neighbours that were approved. You could also consider making an application for an extension identical to the neighbours. If that's approved it could be raised as evidence at the appeal for the outbuilding.

What extra height? Floor heating is thick because you need a lot of insulation, I don't think you would need any less with IR heating.

+1 I've made some complaints to the ASA about people claiming there heaters are better and had them upheld. IR heaters work well in a commercial garage where you want to heat people stood in front of them but they wouldn't be my choice for a house. If I had to use electric I'd use a heat pump and wet UFH as I'm not a fan of air to air.