Temp

Some carpets are available in two versions, one with a rubber backing and the other with a Hessian backing. These have different TOG values. Beware because the small print on order forms normally allows the shop to supply either version at their choice. Many carpet sales staff haven't a clue what a TOG value is so ask to see the makers spec/data or go elsewhere if you can't see it. One told me a carpet we asked about had a TOG value over 10 which was clearly nonsense.

Scroll down here to the links for Rigid Construction Flexible Construction https://www.pavingexpert.com/setts02

Was hoping to avoid rolling my own but that might turn out to be easier. I did find one fitting at a local BnQ that was perfect (even got adjustable angle) but they seem to have discontinued the lengths I need.

The Clearview wood burners are pretty good.

I'm not a plasterer but perhaps these would reinforce the corner.. Skim coat bead.. https://www.profilestore.co.uk/c/render-plaster-bead/thin-coat-hook-on-bead Corner tape, not sure how strong... https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-reinforced-corner-jointing-tape-white-30m-x-50mm/981CF?tc=UT2&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19823510542&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPxgoUiqaNEyp2UQAKsiCamHx&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8vvABhCcARIsAOCfwwpR9074scYSb2Y_pj_lW2CO_Ww-QYDxvjZiI5O48eAA1xb3HK5fWysaAh6KEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Interesting. "Are you a developer just trying to make money" was one of the first questions the neighbours and Parish asked me. Hadn't thought about the CIL.

We have stone and tiled floors in bathrooms and it's nice to have these warm at times of the year when we don't need heating in the bedrooms. We also have more bedrooms than we need now the kids have left home. For these reasons we find having everything on separate programmable zones quite handy.

I'd probably just spray it with some diluted bleach. Long time ago Tesco sold thin bleach very cheap but they seem to have stopped selling it. Whatever you use watch out for builders walking on it then your best carpet/wood floor.

Can anyone recommend some under cabinet lights for a kitchen? Ideally... Low profile <25mm Tall (so not T5 which tend to be 30-33mm. The recess is only 28mm deep) Mains powered or "plug-in" Approx 40-45cm long to fit 50cm wide cabinets. A 30cm version would be good as well. Ideally just simple lights without hand waving controls. If it has that does it default to ON (or remember it was ON?) when you disconnect and reconnect the power? I want to use a wall switch to turn a set on/off without having to go around hand waving under each one.

Make sure you understand this. He's saying 4*8 made from 2qty of 2*8 is stronger than just one large 4*8. You might need something bigger than 8" deep? I think it's to do with knots? Id go with his suggestion and follow the advice above about taking it apart to get into place. If working short-handed Id look at making some "clothes props" wuth a tripod base to support one end. While you bolt the other.

If you want to speak I would add a line something like this.. I'm not a property developer, I'm looking to build a home for my family and be part of the community.

We used an architect for our self build project. We asked three to quote but he went above and beyond by visiting the site and included ink and water colour sketches of a house he thought would look good on the plot. Later did a street scene the same way. The artistic licence available made his proposal blend in more with surroundings than say Photoshop or CAD would have done. He was great on design but less good on estimating how much it would actually cost. He was also hopeless at doing battle with the planners. Didn't chase them enough for response to drawings. Didn't need him for the build as builder was excellent.

Never heard of it being too permeable. Asked ChatGPT which said... Can't really tell you what I would probably do.

I believe there is an exemption if its not practical to insulate to current standards. If really stuck I would try proposing something you find acceptable over the stairs an possibly thicker elsewhere? Do you need the 20mm cavity for services? Perhaps look at insulated plasterboard for the inner layer saving 20mm? But check it includes a vapour barrier. Various thicknesses... https://www.insulationuk.co.uk/products/tekwarm-thermal-laminate-pir-plasterboard-thermal-laminate-pir-plasterboard?variant=43041559249077&currency=GBP&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17325772288&gbraid=0AAAAAoNNCLSLOHgQm4MFd1KJft-3MU8Hp&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_dbABhC5ARIsAAh2Z-QakNYw1edDI7RmZF3flqz89MIRtUIzqLXOB7coP8qIIgOsnww3PqQaApJcEALw_wcB

I think a sketch is needed. As I understand it between the "fire" and the beam you have a block (or pumice liner?) and a cavity? If that's over 200mm I don't think anything is needed. The top of the cavity will be sealed. Perhaps wrap the end in DPM?

Perhaps.. https://www.cncbuildingcontrol.gov.uk/faqs/calculate-size-soakaway-required-extension/

That includes trees, not sure about plants.

Perhaps I'm wrong but I calculated the crates needed at about £2500 after the VAT is reclaimed. Just over 100 crates at about £25 each. https://skyplastics.co.uk/polystorm-soakaway-crate-x-120-22-46-20-tonne-1000mm-x-500mm-x-400mm-c-w-clips-shear-connectors-7.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=11823408165&gbraid=0AAAAACepU-YY6R55dqvulcit98fUTrQ93&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2tHABhCiARIsANZzDWrXL3utZmoyuieDmmroFsJzj3egyX4nV9rKUkpDV7aYHLwJHst_RDUaAsp2EALw_wcB

What soil type do you have? Have you done a percolation test? That might show a smaller soakaway is needed.

Does the timber frame company require you to use a particular product for warranty purposes?

If you want to use that online store they sell the right stuff.... https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/search?keywords=Vapour+barrier

Not suitable. Breathable membranes are designed to allow water vapour to escape from the structure to help avoid condensation. Vapour barriers are designed to stop water vapour escaping into the structure and possibly causing condensation. Vapour barriers are normally a plastic sheet like material, not a felt/fiber like material.

There is a section in VAT 708 that covers things that allow a house to be built. See 3.3.4... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708 In my case I had to move a water main. Presumably you would hire (hired) someone to cap the shaft? In which case their work should be zero rated to you. Same applies to all trades. Their labour and any materials they provide should (must) all be zero rated to you. You would only reclaim the VAT if you purchased materials and gave them to the company doing the work. Again their labour must be zero rated to you. I recommend that any time you are given a quote for work on the house check if the quote includes VAT. If it does ask them to issue a new quote removing the VAT because the work is being done on a hew house and they are zero rated. Some companies may need convincing so show them VAT 708 as that tells them what rate to charge you (0%). Any problems come back here and ask. You cannot reclaim VAT you paid in error from HMRC, you would have to go back to the company for the VAT and that's always harder after you've paid.

Remember the eaves overhang might make them closer.

Can you appeal deducting the cost of the non allowable parts?