Temp

I think the CIL still has to be calculated even if you are exempt if that's what you are thinking.

Is it my imagination or has the builder used metal plates under the steels to spread the load? I think I'd ask an SE to take a look.

You could consider adding some shrubs or 3 or 4 "standard" size trees in the hedge line or elsewhere. Typical they want a note saying any planting that dies in the first 3 years is replaced, then after that it's reasonable to assume those plants won't grow in that location. We had to plant 5 but only 2 survived. PS Remember any plants on the landscape plan you can reclaim the VAT on. Not otherwise.

They look quite good to me. In particular the thickness looks pretty uniform which makes laying them easier.

We had to provide method statements with our landscaping plan for both the driveway and a native hedge planting. You can find them on the web but the driveway that would be something like.. Dig out to depth ?? mm Install edging boards/conservation kerbs? Lay and compact MOT Type 3 (water permeable), depth ?? Lay gravel size yy to depth ?? I find weeds grow in the leaf debris that lands on the gravel in winter, rather than growing up through the hardcore - so for that reason I wouldn't bother with a weed control membrane. For the native hedge.. Planting Mark out a double staggered row, with 300mm between rows. Plant whips or bare-root transplants at a density of approximately 4-5 per meter. Fit plastic rabbit protection spirals? Ongoing Maintenance: Mulch around the base of the hedge to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Regularly prune the hedge to maintain its shape and encourage denser growth. Monitor for diseases or pests and take appropriate action. Replace plants that fail for first three years. I regret planting Dog Rose in my mix and would avoid others with thorns if planting again. Mostly to make it easier to cut.

I also wouldn't do it the way you propose. Go with packers or sistered joists.. Packers: How level are the tops of the joists? If very level the you can probably buy packers or get them cut to the right height. If the tops aren't level go with sistered joists. Sistered joists: These would probably be a similar size to the existing joists and fixed to the side of them. The advantage is you can clamp each one at the right height before fixing them in place. First thing I'd check is if the builder used the right size steels and fixed the steels together as specified by the SE. Then check if the joists the builder fitted are dimensionally correct (just installed too low). If both of the above are OK then I think you should be OK without new input from the SE. If you are parting ways with the builder I think I would invite the BCO to do an inspection in case there are other problems. Take notes and send the BCO an email to confirm what you discussed/agreed about fixing them. Then write to the Builder registered post with a list of defects giving him "opportunity to rectify". Say two weeks to build fix the defects without further funds. Meanwhile carefully work out the extra cost of fixing the defects (only) for any court claim. BCO aren't always willing to give advice in writing for insurance reasons but might be more forthcoming verbally on site.

They put a linear drain next to the house so there should be a fall towards that. It would be better next to the steps but wouldn't look as good. You can build then many ways. Its quite OK to do.. Compact ground, hardcore, formwork, concrete, remove formwork add paving. Devil is in the detail.

Made up ground (and the hardcore) should be compacted, probably in layers or it will settle. We used a vibrating wacker plate. In fact all the ground should be compacted.

OK so joists running left to right and you want a fall running front to back. You add firings on top of each joist that aren't tapered. Instead each is a different thickness to create the fall. Bit of maths is all you need to work out the height of each firing. But add say 1" to each so the firings at the low end aren't super thin. Cut them carefully and do a dry run to check for no hollows. Edit: Perhaps fit noggins flush with the top of the firing for extra support.

Google says the weight of plasterboard and skim is around 8.5kg/sqm. The insulation you estimate at 17kg/sqm making a total around 25.5kg/sqm. Google say lath and plaster is 30-40kg/sqm. I would suggest the architect add a note to the drawings that says the new design therefore reduces the load on the roof which has stood for 200 years and is in excellent condition. Most BCO will work with you unless you mess them around.

Thinking aloud... See what the BCO says first but If structural changes are needed perhaps you could reinforce what you have rather than replace. Sistering joists is common. Perhaps add another purlin if the rafters need it? Don't offer to make changes unless the BCO questions it.

Did the Architect say why he doesn't think it will meet Building Regs? Is it a structural issue or an insulation issue or ? If the roofing felt is old it might not be vapour permeable like modern membranes. That may mean a 50mm ventilated void is required between the felt and insulation. That might not leave enough depth for insulation ? If that's the issue there are likely to be ways around it. Perhaps by putting more insulation elsewhere. Ask him what he thinks the issue is. Edit: Ah I see your SE thinks it's not strong enough.

I think B&B would work well but might be a bit more complicated. You would probably need to build walls for each end of the beams to rest on. The wall near the house could be just blocks. The one furthest from the house probably brick and block or block clad with timber. Once done any paving or tiling on top would be pretty bomb proof.

I don't think our BCO looked at it. I think in theory we have about 3" of fall over about two meters of pipe but because the flexi lays on the floor most of the run is flat. Hasn't been a problem.

I don't think PP is needed in the garden provided some rules are met.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/solar-panels/planning-permission-stand-alone-solar-equipment-panels-not-on-a-building-but-within-the-grounds-of-a-house-or-a-block-of-flats But in a field its a different matter. Pretty sure a full application would be required.

I sympathise. The planners speant a year telling me the house had to be right at the front of the plot where its too narrow. Then we found a letter in which they told the previous owner that a house "further back might be better". You can try and point out the inconsistency to the planners but if that doesn't help you can point out the favourable opinion and improvements at appeal.

We have a free standing bath. The waste pipe comes out of the wall at floor level. We used flexible pipe to connect to the trap on the underside of the bath. We actually used more flexible pipe than necessary so the whole bath can be moved away from the wall for cleaning. Our taps are wall mounted.

I'd compact the ground and the MOT in two layers.

Sorry I don't have any info on the tester. I assume the coating is metal based so it's slightly conductive. It should be on the indoor side. Some of our windows have a dozen small panes/lights and the BCO tested every one of them. If one didn't pass he opened the window and tested the outside. That's how we knew a few were in the wrong way around.

I can't think of a reason why that wouldn't work. Some drawings show the strap on top of the rafters and fixed to the brickwork not "built in". Perhaps use a strap with a longer vertical section so the fixings are lower down the wall?

Low battery is usually a single chirp or beep every 15-30 seconds. Alarm is full blown, you ain't sleeping through this, continuously sounding and loud. If its a low battery they usually take PP9 / 9V batteries or they have a 10 year battery that you can't replace. If its the latter Screwfix or Toolstation will normally have suitable replacement. If its a real alarm I'd turn off anything that has a flame (boiler, gas oven/ hob, gas fire, candles etc) and I'd get a Gas Safe Registered Engineer (used to be called Corgi) to look at it. If there is more than one possible source perhaps ask the Tennant which they were using when it went off.

When it starts modulating down prematurely what actually happens to the the flow and return temperature? Think the return temperature should give clues.

How old is the system? When you say it's always done it do you mean since built it or since you bought the house? My first thought is the system has a slot of sludge in it. Possibly no or not enough corrosion inhibitor? This could explain both the "air" and inconsistent flow. If that's a possibility I'd look at draining and refilling the system, turning it on to stir it up and repeat until the water is reasonably clear. Then dose it with the right amount of Fernox F1 or similar. Read the instructions. It's likely to need several bottles. Helps if you can measure the volume of water when you drained out earlier. Putting too much inhibitor in doesn't usually hurt. You can also get test kits to check the concentration. Other possibilities could be an intermittent of failing pump? Undersize or faulty expansion vessel normally caused water out of the PRV.

We had an IBC on our allotment, it had a metal frame but I doubt I could be buried. The plastic part was more flexible than a watering can.

You could ask an estate agent what they think it adds to the value of your house. Although they will probably charge a fee. Don't invite the neighbour to attend when they visit!