Temp

How old is the hot water tank? Any water coming out of overflows when you try to pressurise it?

Is there a reason for that?

Air lock in the UFH loops?

What thickness Engineered wood? What is the water temperature being sent to the floor? How much insulation under the UFH? How well insulated is the house in general? Do the return pipes get hot? What was the pipe spacing? We have Engineered wood flooring over UFH and 80mm insulation. We have a near two storey window in that room with no curtains. First winter we had similar issue, room not reaching set temperature. Had to crank up the flow temperature somewhat. Since then it's been OK. However other rooms with stone or tile floors have always felt easier to heat. Turning up the flow temperature is a risk to the wood floor but ours has been fine.

Don't neglect that "cavity tray above roof level". They are some work to fit but they stop water running down inside what was an exterior wall and coming through the brick into your new room. Otherwise +1 to tanking the wall to above ground level then battens, insulation and plasterboard.

This might be of interest although it's from 2020. It suggests planning conditions requiring mitigation may not be enforceable if its not possible for you to comply.. https://www.winchester.gov.uk/assets/attach/21906/CAB3219-Appendix-A-Position-Statement-Nitrate-Neutrality.pdf There are time limits to appeal conditions.

Can't add much, just that there are two different grades of stainless steel used to make flues. One is more resistant to corrosion than the other. Can't recall which is which but check it out.

If you've had to give them evidence you should probably start thinking about getting your VAT return in (3 month deadline).

In the letter here... https://www.north-norfolk.gov.uk/media/7687/letter-from-ne-water-quality-and-nutrient-neutrality-advice.pdf it says.. Is it as "simple" as providing a storm surge attenuation system? If it has to be done at the sewerage works perhaps thus is something the CIL should address? After all its meant to fund new infrastructure.

So have they basically vetoed any new connection to the sewerage system?

+1

We have a dual cylinder arrangement feeding our hob. The regulator/changeover device on ours came with instructions for testing for leaks. These basically said to turn off the appliance. Then turn the cylinders on to pressurise the pipe, then turn the cylinders off again. Monitor the pressure gauge overnight to see if the pressure falls. I find cylinders smell a bit even when there is no leak, but that's only close up. Shouldn't be able to smell it yards away. It could just be the cylinder connection leaking. These have a left hand thread so have to be turned the other way to tighten. The mating surface of the fittings must be clean before assembly.

I suspect they think they can do that because the replacement isn't complete yet.

Indeed it's a worse case. Which council is it? We might be able to find any guidance they have online.

Get a big phone that supports wireless charging?

Some form of WBP plywood. A good timber merchants may stock several grades. To be honest it ranges a lot in quality and price. I got some from a chain beginning with W that was junk. Some places call their best "Marine Grade" but I'm not sure thats an official term.

I don't think you can do OTG and charge at the same time. I think OTG allows the tablet to power peripherals like an endoscope camera where as charging requires power to flow the other way. Googling "OTG and charging at same time" finds mixed opinions as to the feasibility and this vid but I've not tried it.. https://youtu.be/Ld6LjVe-Xo0 Some comments say it worked for them, others that it didn't. Depends on phone/tablet.

This bit suggests it's part of the Brexit agreement?...

Not sure I believe it's only 75mm long. That's two bends in little more than one diameter? I suppose it might be possible if both ends are male so they are inside the pipe. Will need good sealing.

One option is a pipe stat on the loop so the pump runs until hot water returns to the cylinder. Then switches off until it cools down. Ideally you want to be able to control the hysteresis (temperature at which it switches on/off).

There is some info on visibility splays in the "Manual for streets" around page 91 to 93.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/341513/pdfmanforstreets.pdf Typically you must be able to see a point on the kerb y meters down the road from a point 2.4m back from the kerb in the centre of your entrance. The distance y depends on the speed limit of the road. There is a table on page 91. Diagram on 93. If these distances are a problem if might be possible to get them relaxed. Eg 2m back for light traffic roads etc.

Some of them are so strong they could probably pull the nails out:-)

Anyone got a recommendation for a decent stud finder or similar attachment for mobile phone? I need to pinpoint some joists above a plasterboard ceiling. The one I have isn't working well.

Worth checking that two of these can be joined together. You might need a short length if pipe between the two?

I believe that's correct but not done it myself. I suspect the same rules that apply to a new build apply to a conversion or reinstatement. Eg Demolition is reduced rated. Trees and plants only reduced if part of a landscaping plan required as part of an approved planning permission. I would ask someone to quote to "Demolish concrete hard standing, level and prepare ground for turf and lay turf" get them to charge you 5% and reclaim it. You will probably have to pay VAT on any replanting/new trees.