MJNewton

I would think your neighbours costs are going to give a much better indication than a generic per sqm cost, which hasn't really ever meant all that much given the variability relating to content and final finish, particularly for an extension.

From the blue pipe couldn't you have just gone up then righthand bend to an isolation valve and on to the remainder of the pipework?

Not from the ducting itself. The only noise is from the outlets - presumably a combination of the airflow and fan noise, although there is a silencer to help attenuate the latter. Even the noise that is present is hard to hear and only noticeable up close, more prominent on boost of course.

What are your filters like? Our Titon uses cages which whilst not necessarily intended to facilitate reuse can be opened and closed back up again. This enables me to buy a roll of material so replacement ends up costing just 10s of pence.

..and with those three short words you've just made me realise that my 'habit' of doing it the way I've always done it somewhat dated what with the advent of such socket types nowadays. That approach makes a lot of sense and I must remind myself of it next time. I am assuming you can get decent quality USB sockets? I know plug-in types can be massively variable from decent all the way down to downright dangerous!

Whether it's my tight Northern roots or an undiagnosed OCD I go to what normal people would likely regard as extreme lengths to maximise return and minimise waste on things like this... Here's the plasterboard plan for our family room ceiling and walls: It was pretty successful and led to barely a handful (literally!) of offcuts! Even at minimum wage though I bet I spent more planning and 'solving the puzzle' than I saved on materials so I don't think I'd necessarily recommend it! It also meant I couldn't afford to screw any cuts up which, unusually for me, I somehow got away with. A great feeling when it all goes to plan though!

Given the potential bulkiness of plugs that might be used in a bedroom I always go for a couple of short-lead 3/4 way extension leads tucked out of sight thus leaving the wall sockets to be more easily hidden too. I find this particularly beneficial in guest bedrooms as it allows people to temporarily plug in their own chargers etc without wrestling furniture out of the way, scrabbling behind the bed for socket/switch, finding their cable doesn't quite reach etc.

We've got 75mm semi-rigid ducting and it is absolutely silent in use, even on boost. I wouldn't consider using anything else.

5x times what though? It might well be a relatively low cost either way. (Apologies if this is all explained in the recording; I haven't had chance to listen) For example, our MVHR system cost us £24 (120kWh @20p/kWh) to power for the last year which I consider to be negligible given the benefits it provides.

Soundproofing.

It absolutely can, and is often the reasoned efforts to provide soundproofing are so significantly undermined due to poor detailing.

‘Next best’ doesn’t necessarily mean anywhere near as good as though… 😉 Dont’t get me wrong, the Arc - whilst very expensive - is a very good soundbar even without whatever Atmos effects it might or might not be able to provide. The sub, whilst again overly expensive, is definitely a game changer though as not only does it provide the low frequencies well but it frees the Arc up to deal solely with the mids and highs which naturally is what it’s best at given the size of its speakers.

Unlikely, particularly if they are from Club 18-30 guests talking about your sex pools hot tubs.

I wouldn't let the Atmos side of things influence your layout too much. The effect is relatively subtle, and with upwards-firing speakers even more so to the point where there's every chance you might not even notice it. Regarding height, I'm not sure where Dolby are expecting your TV to be (which should be at eye level when seated) if the soundbar is to be placed at ear level!

Completely practical in my experience. We’ve got a 4-panel lift-and-slide set of doors, with the centre two openers and the outers fixed. It’s our only exit from the family room to the garden and it’s absolutely fine. Wife and 4yr old daughter use it regularly without any issues whatsoever.

That's the one - it's a combined heater and pump. Take a look at this out-of-unit photo: Remove the plug connected to the white-shrouded terminals towards the front-right and measure the resistance between the terminals with a multimeter (or measure directly on the element front-left. I'd expect it to read around 10-15 ohms if working. Chances are its fine and its the switching relay that's gone. Don't give up - you've done the hard bit!

Might recessing the strike plate a little further help?

Look for the blockage, not the AAV. A failed AAV wouldn't result in the water level dropping slowly (the water would quite happily fill the resulting vacuum).

My 1000th post! (And to think here I am: Saturday night doing trigonometry on the subject of laser levels. Is this what my life's come to?)

Aha, but does it? With the camera angle such as it is it's not really possible to determine whether it is level front-to-back for the reasons I was covering. Time to get the level out @Nickfromwales!

Leaving the maths where it belongs and bringing my input back to something more constructive, a vertical 'trim' adjustment like @Nickfromwales's level has *is* one thing I do wish I had on mine. Whilst not essential given you can introduce a measured offset like @SteamyTeashows, my OCD does mean I am far more comfortable having the laser line on exactly my mark/hole/whatever and so I end up making minor tweaks to my clamp which is often far from ideal... Up a bit, down a bit, back up a bit, damn slipped beyond the max angle start again, type of thing.

Yes, absolutely. And of course that method would work if the level is on the floor in my pictures scenario but you'd be measuring 1.47m (assuming the laser sits 3cm above its base) up from that skirting-level mark which then likely introduces other issues!

I never did get one as a kid. Yes, absolutely. But as you say what you're doing there is adjusting its vertical height but without changing the angle... However, *this* was the suggestion/desire being stated (apologies @Temp, this isn't personal - what you said would indeed be a great feature if it could work!): If the level is on the floor then it's going to be quite some rack-and-pinion mechanism to lift it up, say, 1.5m in my picture scenario! To get it that high up you'd need to change the beam angle which, as I illustrated, has knock-on consequences hence why no such feature exists.

It sounds like you are talking about something different. We were discussing about the desire to be able to set a laser level on the floor and have some form of 'beam adjustment' to adjust its projected height so as not to have to raise/clamp the level itself at the desired height. You can't do this, or at least not without accepting the consequences (or breaking the laws of physics).

Absolutely yup.. 🙂 You can't project a horizontal line with a non-zero vertical inclination. Probably easiest to illustrate with a diagram, but quicker with trigonometry: Let's say you want to hang perfectly level pictures 1.5m up on a chimney breast and in an adjacent alcove, 0.5m set back. With your laser level clamped to step ladders at 1.5m up, 2m from the chimney breast and vertical inclination at self-level of 0° then according to trigonometry vertical delta = distance from wall x tanAngle = 2 x tan0 = 2 x 0 =0. Keeping the level where it is, the vertical delta for the alcove = (2 + 0.5) x tan0 = 2.5 x 0 = 0. Both the same. Now put your level on the floor, 2m from the chimney breast again and adjust its 'beam adjustment' (if it had one, which it won't! ;-)) to point up to the 1.5m point up on the chimney breast. The vertical inclination is tan-1(1.5 / 2) = 37°. That same line, projected into the alcove, will sit at a height of (2 + 0.5) x tan37 = 1.88m thus 38cm higher than on the chimney breast. Sure, you can mitigate the offset by moving the level further away, but even 5m away if you're keeping it on the floor then the lines will still have a 15cm difference in height. (Saturday night's eh? Rock and roll!) Edit: Figures updated since initial reply.