MJNewton

Yes, and it's always good to have a forced excuse to exercise the stopcock once in a while.

That's just it - I don't. My 'poor mans PoE' just uses passive components i.e. it's a bog standard switch (Netgear FS116, for what it's worth) into which I plug an injector that allows me to inject power onto the two unused pairs of the cable and at the other end is a splitter that extracts that power to supply the camera and connects the data lines through its network socket. Here's a picture from the web that may illustrate the approach more clearly: Unlike with 'real' PoE there are no standards in place, no voltage/current sensing and negotiation etc. It's basic, but it works.

Thats different to the passive combiner/splitter that I use. That’s an active device that converts ‘real’ 48v PoE down to 5v. You still need a PoE switch at the head end.

I power all my IP cameras using 'poor man's' PoE combiners/splitters like these that are just passive devices that utilise the spare cores of 10/100 Ethernet wiring to transmit power alongside the data: I've had around dozen in use for over 15 years without a single issue. To cut down on the number of PSUs required I double (actually triple or more) multiple cameras from one PSU (making sure to remain well within its current capacity limit of course).

I'm a big fan of MDF, well for skirting at least - hate it for anything else! Straight as anything and so easy to cut, prep, finish and fit. Nick's point about vulnerable corners sounds reasonable, although I've not noticed an issue myself. (I'd get on my hands and knees to inspect some corners were it not for the fact that I'm the only one that does any hoovering around here so I know no one else will have bashed them with it!) I've always bought from MDF Skirting World and found them really competitive price-wise and never had any issues with their free delivery service (they use their own vans which not all do). Have never gone for their pre-primed offerings preferring to paint everything myself.

The main reason I put them on their own circuit (and a dedicated RCBO at that) is to avoid nuisance trips from issues on other circuits. The risk is admittedly near-zero in practice for me (I can't remember the last nuisance trip that wasn't caused by something I was involved in at the time!) and it's not something that keeps me awake at night, and I do tend to be at the worrier end of the spectrum! It feels right though, like lining up faceplate screws on sockets and switches.

I put them on their own circuit, however do try and add on a single light (eg a regularly used understairs cupboard light) that gives a quick and clear indication of circuit failure without waiting for backup batteries to start beeping.

I would think your neighbours costs are going to give a much better indication than a generic per sqm cost, which hasn't really ever meant all that much given the variability relating to content and final finish, particularly for an extension.

From the blue pipe couldn't you have just gone up then righthand bend to an isolation valve and on to the remainder of the pipework?

Not from the ducting itself. The only noise is from the outlets - presumably a combination of the airflow and fan noise, although there is a silencer to help attenuate the latter. Even the noise that is present is hard to hear and only noticeable up close, more prominent on boost of course.

What are your filters like? Our Titon uses cages which whilst not necessarily intended to facilitate reuse can be opened and closed back up again. This enables me to buy a roll of material so replacement ends up costing just 10s of pence.

..and with those three short words you've just made me realise that my 'habit' of doing it the way I've always done it somewhat dated what with the advent of such socket types nowadays. That approach makes a lot of sense and I must remind myself of it next time. I am assuming you can get decent quality USB sockets? I know plug-in types can be massively variable from decent all the way down to downright dangerous!

Whether it's my tight Northern roots or an undiagnosed OCD I go to what normal people would likely regard as extreme lengths to maximise return and minimise waste on things like this... Here's the plasterboard plan for our family room ceiling and walls: It was pretty successful and led to barely a handful (literally!) of offcuts! Even at minimum wage though I bet I spent more planning and 'solving the puzzle' than I saved on materials so I don't think I'd necessarily recommend it! It also meant I couldn't afford to screw any cuts up which, unusually for me, I somehow got away with. A great feeling when it all goes to plan though!

Given the potential bulkiness of plugs that might be used in a bedroom I always go for a couple of short-lead 3/4 way extension leads tucked out of sight thus leaving the wall sockets to be more easily hidden too. I find this particularly beneficial in guest bedrooms as it allows people to temporarily plug in their own chargers etc without wrestling furniture out of the way, scrabbling behind the bed for socket/switch, finding their cable doesn't quite reach etc.

We've got 75mm semi-rigid ducting and it is absolutely silent in use, even on boost. I wouldn't consider using anything else.

5x times what though? It might well be a relatively low cost either way. (Apologies if this is all explained in the recording; I haven't had chance to listen) For example, our MVHR system cost us £24 (120kWh @20p/kWh) to power for the last year which I consider to be negligible given the benefits it provides.

Soundproofing.

It absolutely can, and is often the reasoned efforts to provide soundproofing are so significantly undermined due to poor detailing.

‘Next best’ doesn’t necessarily mean anywhere near as good as though… 😉 Dont’t get me wrong, the Arc - whilst very expensive - is a very good soundbar even without whatever Atmos effects it might or might not be able to provide. The sub, whilst again overly expensive, is definitely a game changer though as not only does it provide the low frequencies well but it frees the Arc up to deal solely with the mids and highs which naturally is what it’s best at given the size of its speakers.

Unlikely, particularly if they are from Club 18-30 guests talking about your sex pools hot tubs.

I wouldn't let the Atmos side of things influence your layout too much. The effect is relatively subtle, and with upwards-firing speakers even more so to the point where there's every chance you might not even notice it. Regarding height, I'm not sure where Dolby are expecting your TV to be (which should be at eye level when seated) if the soundbar is to be placed at ear level!

Completely practical in my experience. We’ve got a 4-panel lift-and-slide set of doors, with the centre two openers and the outers fixed. It’s our only exit from the family room to the garden and it’s absolutely fine. Wife and 4yr old daughter use it regularly without any issues whatsoever.

That's the one - it's a combined heater and pump. Take a look at this out-of-unit photo: Remove the plug connected to the white-shrouded terminals towards the front-right and measure the resistance between the terminals with a multimeter (or measure directly on the element front-left. I'd expect it to read around 10-15 ohms if working. Chances are its fine and its the switching relay that's gone. Don't give up - you've done the hard bit!

Might recessing the strike plate a little further help?

Look for the blockage, not the AAV. A failed AAV wouldn't result in the water level dropping slowly (the water would quite happily fill the resulting vacuum).